Wheel Cylinder, Mount bolts, & Bleeder screw info. 73 Challenger

[greenzeppelin]

Good day,

*********Reposting my original post from old Cuda-Challenger Forum as i had to reuse it recently!*******

Only because this was a pain in the ass and my local auto parts store LORDCO was not helpful in the least i am posting for the next guy.

The day started with my brakes failing unloading the Chally.. right into a light post  :swear:

Upon further investigation; no brake fluid. Now need to bleed breaks. Rear LH has broke of bleeder. I dont have anyone to help me bleed the brakes.

Everything went sideways from braking a wheel cyl bolt, seized brake line(snap) @ wheel cylinder, broken easyouts, wrong wheel cylinder, sliced thumb on brake tubes, poor flaring tool..

Tried using a LORDCO grade 8 bolt for mounting the wheel cylinders. Broke that off tightening it down. Got ahold of dealer; discontinued. Obviously could order off the internet but that wasnt a quick option either.

Wheel Cylinder i was sold was a Raybestos# WC37235, this wheel cylinder has incorrect bleeder screw size of 1/4.
After being told "this is what the computer tells me!" I did some research and went back with the part number, ERRRRRR.

Pulled my casting # 3461776T (3/8-24 brake line inlet w 15/16 bore w 5/16-24 bleeder) and started researching the internet.

ANYWAY.. Parts List for the NEXT guy!

*Speed Bleeders with One Way check Valve(One man bleeding!):

Fronts are 3/8-24 thread

Russel/Edlebrock
Front #  639590
DORMAN
Front # 12701

Rears are 5/16-24 thread

Russel/Edlebrock
Rear # 639530
DORMAN
Rear # 12704

*Wheel Cylinder Bolts (I work for Finning so i sourced through CATERPILLAR as a Steel 1035 MPa Tensile strength)

*1/4-20 thread with flange head x .50 UNC
#1665396

REAR Wheel Cylinder (3/8-24 brake line inlet w 15/16 bore w 5/16-24 bleeder w 1/4-20x.50 mount bolts)

Raybestos# WC37053



HopeFully this saves someone some time when running into the same issues!

cheers everyone from

[jimynick]

Thanks for sharing your hard gotten info! For what it's worth in future, heat is your friend. I've got a '74 and if you heat the line flare nut yellow hot usually it'll start to move. Work the nut back and forth and spray with a good penetrant (Mopar makes a good one) as you do. same for the wheel cylinders, Make sure you only use single hex (6 point) wrenches or sockets.