Zerk fitting rubbing on Torsion Bar

[Topcat]

Was  able to get some time on the rack yesterday and replaced the starter.
The armature had a lot of slop.

While under there, I noticed that the zerk fitting was rubbing on the Torsion Bar.

The angle of the idler arm is at a Slant.
Almost like it appears the Pitman arm is too short?

[6bblgt]

I think the top bolt of the power steering box can be shimmed to get the tail end of the pitman arm lower 

also  it appears your sway bar is up-side-down it should "frown"

is that a B-body K-frame in an E-body?

[JS29]

  The FSM shows it, I had to do mine.   

[anlauto]

The wrong idler arm could be the culprit, if it's hanging to low it will cause the other side to be too hi and hit the torsion bar

[Topcat]

I think the top bolt of the power steering box can be shimmed to get the tail end of the pitman arm lower 

also  it appears your sway bar is up-side-down it should "frown"

is that a B-body K-frame in an E-body?

Al Devebvic Hemi K member.

[vert]

I notice this exact thing also.  I have an Al Debevic K-frame also.  He says he makes them on a jig.  I think the jig is a tiny bit off.  Had to grind the LH hemi mount to clear the oil pump also.  I made a template for that. 

[Topcat]

Thanks

This is sound like what is causing this.

[Brads70]

I wonder if the T/A arms would help by giving you more clearance?

[Topcat]

Anyone have a picture of them side by side?

[HP2]

Not sure what you mean when you say the idler is at a slant. There are a lot of angles at play when all these things  are installed and they all produce a range of arcs when in motion.

First thing I'd do is put a tape from the ground to the center link at both the idler and pitman positions and see if they are equal. Odds are they are not. You can blame this on the K being off, the length of the idler, or the angle of the idler. Reality is this was a common problem in mopars and there is a factory procedure for fixing it.   

For the pitman, you shim the steering box. For the idler you have to slot the mounting hole, re-angle the idler, then weld a washer in place to lock the position. Of course in this case where you have an engine in place, you could slot the bottom idler mounting hole enough to create clearance, then weld up a portion of the previous hole.

Of course the easiest thing  to do is remove the zerk and install a plug. But then you have to reverse the procedure anytime you want to lube the joint.

[RUNCHARGER]

I was thinking of installing a plug after greasing as well if you can't easily repair it.