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1974 Challenger Restomod

Started by Dmod1974, December 08, 2019, 09:25:14 AM

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Dmod1974

I've been on here for quite a while, so figured I'd finally post something!  I'm currently exactly one year into my restoration.  I've had this car since I was 16 (I'm 35 now), and have literally done everything else myself (EVERYTHING except the block machine work) to it except for body work since I've never done it before.  Well, after realizing how much it would cost to pay someone to do this work and being so hands on, I've had a change of heart! 

It's a restomod and most of the mechanical changes are done with the possible upgrade to a Hellcrate and Tremec Magnum powertrain later on.

Some basic specs on it before going under the knife:

- 408 stroker w/ Eddy aluminum heads, Super Victor EFI manifold, headers, etc..
- EFI using Megasquirt 3X module that I assembled and tuned with custom harness, LS truck coils, 4150 TB, Venom injectors
- Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 340 EFI pump in modified replacement tank
- Vintage A/C controlled by MS3X
- 4L60E controlled my MS2 module communicating via CAN bus to MS3X
- 200A alternator
- Champion 3 tube radiator with Lincoln MK4 fan and overflow
- RMS Alterktion front suspension
- RMS Street Lynx rear suspension
- 14" Wilwood brakes all the way around
- Hydroboost assist
- 18" Torq Thrust M wheels (275 front and 315 rear)
- power windows, locks, keyless entry, Autometer gauges, stereo w/ 4 channel amp

Note: this was neither a rare nor a numbers matching car when I bought it way back in the day, so hopefully too many people don't lose their minds with all of the changes.  I also drive the crap out of this car when weather allows, so it had to start, run, handle, and stop well to keep up with modern cars with the inevitable Chicago traffic insanity that is the norm around here.  Defensive driving is not an option around here, and neither is trying to maintain 1/4 miles gaps between cars.

Anyway, here are some pics of the build before tear down.  I'll upload highlights as current as I can.  This is my first go at body work, so go easy on me, LOL!






Dmod1974

Last November, I decided to have a go at replacing the floor pan, which I knew was totally shot when I was young and dumb and modded everything else but decided to put new carpet over the rust hole.  Out of sight, out of mind!  Well, at least until I got an impromptu enema driving through a large puddle in an unexpected downpour!  That refreshed my memory....

That's my dog in as much awe as myself.  Someone "repaired" it back in the day with bondo, window screen, pop rivets, and caulk.













Maybe a small patch would have sufficed?!  HA!







Overall, the floors were not too bad a good test run.  I learned then that nothing fits quite right on these cars.  Get me the bigger hammer and grinder!!

Dmod1974

After getting cocky and thinking this was not all that bad, I decided to yank the fenders and powertrain to evaluate the rust in more depth.  Better grab a bucket...   :barf:







Usual rot in the hood hinge area along with every inner fender bracket to the firewall, and the cowl/firewall itself is swiss cheese







Rocker is shot on the RH side for sure...



Lots of rot on the firewall and splash panels



Time to yank out the rest of the interior and strip the firewall down I guess.


Dmod1974

Cowl and firewall replacement is totally beginner work, right?!  I have problems...



Ole girl is getting some braces



Cowl is off, and what a PITA.  At a glance, it doesn't look too bad...



Now I know why the firewall rotted so bad on that side.  Not the only nest I'd find in this car either!



The AMD cowl was ok.  Out of the box it fit poorly, but once you worked and clamped it into place it kind of stretched into the correct position.  There are differences though; I assume they patterned it off of an earlier model year.  The firewall fitment and correctness for my car was similar.





Getting scary now!



Initial mockup; I have to replace both cowl side panels since the seams are completely rotted out and I'm no fabricator.  Those panels actually fit like garbage.  They had nuts welded onto the wrong side of the panel and bends that shouldn't exist.





Going back together....  I panel bonded and spot welded the cowl to firewall seams and lower firewall seam.  It seemed like the perfect place to use that product to ensure water stays out and away from the overlapped panels.  I used a weld through seam sealer on the cowl like the factory did, but it did not take kindly to MIG plug welding!  Wear a respirator!  I epoxy primed the cowl and firewall insides and will use Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating to ensure that area stays rust free.













Moving on to the inner fenders and core support next!

JS29

Now would be a good time to install US cartool stiffener system were the braces go from the cowl to the aprons.    :alan2cents: good job so far.  :wrenching:

larry4406

I know someone will ask, so are you transferring the VIN over to the new cowl panel?

Dmod1974

Yup!  I haven't uploaded the pics yet, but I installed those along with the core stiffener as well.  I have torque boxes and subframe connectors too.  I also installed their mini tub/frame notch kit.

I did not transfer the VIN stamping because there is almost nothing left of them.  I think they were stamped lightly and poorly to begin with on my car, and corrosion didn't help.  Half of the letters are legible.  I cut it out and saved it just in case though.  These clowns stamped my upper radiator support badly too, which I didn't replace since it was in good shape.  It's stamped right through one of the holes in the top of the rail! Not to mention the half dozen or so spot welds they did on one side of my car for the hinge panel to floor joint, and neglected to do on the other side. 


Dmod1974

Inner fenders were rotten near the firewall on both sides so I replaced them.  I also used this opportunity to install the 26" core support side panel too since the RH side was in really bad shape.











The heavy gauge bracket that welds to the shock tower was barely spot welded on the drivers side!  It practically fell off with little effort.




Dmod1974

Replaced the badly banged up lower core support and installed the USCT stiffener piece...








Dmod1974

Found some really thin metal and hidden rot in the bumper mounting and shock tower area of the front left frame rail...  Took the time to level and square the car up, line up the body panels, and then off it came.  Luckily, I did not finish welding the inner fender to the old rail so it only took a handful of spot welds to removed.

Getting the shock tower, inner fender, and rail all aligned was tricky, but overall not too hard.  The AMD rail was a nice piece.  The shock tower was much thicker than the original.  I used the K frame as another reference point and a way to hold that heavy piece in place while fitting it.










Dmod1974

Like everything else on this car, the rockers needed work.  I ended up replacing the outer and repairing the inner on the driver side.  I'm not sure what was worse, this or the firewall!







Since the wheelhouses were rotten, the quarter came off next.  Unrelated for now, but this 1974 vinyl top car did have lead in the sail panel seams.




And I found out that it had been hit at some point on that side.  That's like an inch of bondo!!!



And check out that wheelhouse patch - why even bother?!





Dmod1974

1/4 fully removed...



Very early test fit of the new AMD full quarter.  Not too bad.  The rocker seam will need some work though.  Also noteworthy, I replaced the hood since it was rotting bad in the support structure and had broken weld nuts for the hinges.  I decided to change the exterior panels to 1970, so the front valance, fenders, and quarters are different.  Tail panel too, but not installed yet.  I know I'll get heat for it, but I've always loved the 1970 exterior looks and my 1974 grill and tail panel were in rough shape anyways, and there are very few replacement parts for them.  Flame on!



New door jamb panel due to rust and really, really crappy welding work from when it was patched after the collision.



More pointless previous patchwork...  Not even sure why they wasted the effort.  It didn't fit, seal, or do anything.




Dmod1974

Lots of rust damage out back...  Wheelhouses, trunk pan/extensions, rear crossmember, even the frame rails and rear seat floor had cancer.  All I reused was the shock crossmember and the fuel tank straps.  Taking it apart is soooo much quicker than putting it back together!







Instead of replacing everything individually and trying to weld in awkward positions, I opted to remove the rear "frame" out as one piece to mock up the new one side by side.  Interesting note: the Dynacorn rear crossmember I used was way thicker than OE.  I'm ok with that.








Getting the new coilover crossmember and leaf spring mounts in.



The rear seat floor fit ok, but had some issues to be addressed.  The seat belt buckle nuts were the wrong size, and the lower seat brackets were wrong, among other things.




Dmod1974

New rear frame installed and epoxy/weld primed.









Inboard spring (lower link in this case) relocation install.





Rear seat and trunk floors finally installed:


Dmod1974

I wasn't too impressed with the way the wheelhouses fit, particularly the inner.  Good thing they were getting cut up to mini tub!  The frame notch, while scary, was relatively painless.  I used panel bond on the trunk floor to extension flange too.