70 Challenger RT/SE 440-6pack "shaky SHAKER"

[TobiasM]

Ok, here is one for the DIY`ers amoung us: how to remove the Steering-wheel-hub/crash-can without a proper tool? Build one!

To tell the whole story: I needed to show some devotion to my steering-colum, as I could pull the steering-wheel/hub one quarter of an inch back-and-forth and also I had no key for the ignition lock, so I wanted to remove the old lock with a new one with keys.

Luckily I stumbled across @Cody `s youtube tutorials dealing with restoring a 1970 steering column. These videos are a joy for everone to watch: very good explanation on a step-by-step basis! Big thumbs, Cody!

By watching Cody`s tutorial I had learned that a special tool was needed to pull the steering wheel - or more precisely: the crash-can/hub - off the column. I haven`t ever seen or heard of a special pulling-tool needed for such a job on the cars I dealt with before, so good to now here so one could avoid breaking things.

Because I didn`t had such a tool on the shelf and didn`t want to waste time in ordering/waiting for delivery, I thought of how I could build such a tool in a very simple way with material being available now and for free in my garage.


How to build:
I found a piece of flat iron and a long bolt...that`s it - only 2 pieces built my special tool!!!

I cut the flat iron to fit inside the crash-can and rounded its edges a bit to match the shape of the hub`s circumference. Then I drilled a hole in the center of the flat iron and grinded a thread of the bolts size into it. I used an M10 thread, which is metric ;-))) A bolt with a 3/8" thread should be the proper equivalent for everybody non-metric. My "two simple parts"-special-tool  worked out perfectly fine, though the flat iron was unfortunately not made of Krupp-steel, but of a bending cheap chinese junk-steel...soft as chewinggum, but did last long enough to get the job done. Pictures are attached.

The nut shown below the flat iron isn`t mandatory if you have a thread-grinder. If you don`t have a thread-grinder, but a welder, you just drill the flat iron in the size of your bolt and then weld that nut under that flat iron. If you don`t have a welder, but only a drill, find a second nut of the same thread-size, sandwich the flat-iron between the nuts and thighten the nuts on the bold just enough the flat iron  doen`t turn when you turn the bolt.

How to use:
- first losen the steering-hubs locknut on the column, unscrew it only some few turns, so it forms a "collar" atop of the end of the steering-column. This collar is asure your "special tool" doesn`t slide off the steering column when applying some pull...or more precisely: push.

- then screw the bolt that is at least as long as the hub through the flat iron just enough you can insert the flat iron into the hub/crash-can
- the screw needs to be placed on the steering-column within the aforementioned collar-forming locknut.
- the flat iron needs to lay even/flat against the inside flange of the hub.
- start turning the screw inwards by hand, so the tool gets fixated and doesn`t move/has any slack
- now take a socket and ratched and turn the screw further in SLOWLY
- always have a look at the inner-flange of your hub, as you want to avoid any bending it outwards.
- if you want to supply more strength to your hubs inner-flange aganst pushing forces, take off the socket/rachtet of your special tool and reinstall the bare steering-wheel with its 3 nuts and tighten them nuts
- now with the bare steering-wheel installed, put your socket and ratcht onto the special tools bolt again and start/continue wrenching SLOWLY in clockwise direction...and voila: the steering hub will either come off smoothly by each turn of screw or - as in my case - come off at once with a "bang".

REINSTALLATION:
As Cody recommends, just use the (new) locknut of the steering-column, attach the hub on the column first making sure the splines are mated properly to eachother and the start to lock the locknut, by which the hub is pushed into its full seat on the steering column.

[TobiasM]

And one more evidence to proof my Challengers provenience:

found out that "shaky SHAKER" even has the HEMI-metal-washers/spacers under the bumpstop-rubber of the front lower control arm...and has of course the attaching-hole for the front-swaybar...photo attached.

[Cuda Cody]

Really cool.  Thanks for sharing buddy!   

[6bblgt]

And one more evidence to proof my Challengers provenience:

found out that "shaky SHAKER" even has the HEMI-metal-washers/spacers under the bumpstop-rubber of the front lower control arm...and has of course the attaching-hole for the front-swaybar...photo attached.

as far as '70 E-bodies are concerned the lower control arm rebound bumper "spacer" is for use with 15" wheels/tires - while HEMI e-bodies all came with F60-15 tires & they all should have the spacer, finding spacers on your R/T SE would indicate that it had the OPTIONAL E60-15 Goodyear Polyglas GT tires when new. 

any RED paint on the face of your brake drums?

[anlauto]

And one more evidence to proof my Challengers provenience:

found out that "shaky SHAKER" even has the HEMI-metal-washers/spacers under the bumpstop-rubber of the front lower control arm...and has of course the attaching-hole for the front-swaybar...photo attached.

as far as '70 E-bodies are concerned the lower control arm rebound bumper "spacer" is for use with 15" wheels/tires - while HEMI e-bodies all came with F60-15 tires & they all should have the spacer, finding spacers on your R/T SE would indicate that it had the OPTIONAL E60-15 Goodyear Polyglas GT tires when new. 

any RED paint on the face of your brake drums?

Good info.....The V code Cuda I'm restoring right now has those and no BCS

[MoparDave]

A12 birds has these also.

[1 Wild R/T]

My R/T SE U code had the spacers... But the BCS was coded for 14" wheels & hubcaps...

[usraptor]

And one more evidence to proof my Challengers provenience:

found out that "shaky SHAKER" even has the HEMI-metal-washers/spacers under the bumpstop-rubber of the front lower control arm...and has of course the attaching-hole for the front-swaybar...photo attached.

as far as '70 E-bodies are concerned the lower control arm rebound bumper "spacer" is for use with 15" wheels/tires - while HEMI e-bodies all came with F60-15 tires & they all should have the spacer, finding spacers on your R/T SE would indicate that it had the OPTIONAL E60-15 Goodyear Polyglas GT tires when new. 

any RED paint on the face of your brake drums?

So that's what those are?  I've had those in one of my parts bins and wondered what they were for since I forgot to tag them when I took them off the car.  Thanks guys!     

[TobiasM]

And one more evidence to proof my Challengers provenience:

found out that "shaky SHAKER" even has the HEMI-metal-washers/spacers under the bumpstop-rubber of the front lower control arm...and has of course the attaching-hole for the front-swaybar...photo attached.

as far as '70 E-bodies are concerned the lower control arm rebound bumper "spacer" is for use with 15" wheels/tires - while HEMI e-bodies all came with F60-15 tires & they all should have the spacer, finding spacers on your R/T SE would indicate that it had the OPTIONAL E60-15 Goodyear Polyglas GT tires when new. 

any RED paint on the face of your brake drums?

Dan,

thanks for information confirming my maths done backwards, cause unfortunately there's no broadcastsheet with my car.

Yes, 15" tires and with them mandatory also the 7x15" rallye-wheels, as to none-HEMI-cars there was no other 15" wheel available at all (the HEMI's came at least standard with 7x15"-steelies, but could also opt. to the 7x15" rallyes).

Does anybody know for the more upscale RT's (440, 440-6) if during LATER 1970 MODELYEAR production additionally to the U82-tires (E60x15) also the U84-tires (F60x15) were made available? Mine is of April 15th SPD. I would think so, as the ScatPack-brochure (=RT's only!) clearly names those two 15"-tire-options available not even limiting in any way, but only informing that on HEMI's the F60x15's were not only optional, but already standard, see attached pic.

@paint markings: what would the red paint markings on drums tell me, please? Are there any more paint-markings I should watch out for???

My drums in this case are of no help, sorry, cause my car was per fendertags originally equipped with power-discs.

Was lucky enough to accquire a factory pwrdscbrk-set, even the biggies: 11.75" rotors, proper spindles, pin-type calipers, proper caliper-brackets, semi-metallic pads 

But that pwrdscbrk-setup is stored on shelf for a later refitting to "shaky SHAKER", as for getting it street-legalized it doesn't matter if it has drums or discs, and street legalizing has priority to me at first...besides history-research/proofing.

Next thing I am gonna check for further proofing my Challenger will be if it has the pinion-snubber-reinforcemt-plate welded in place...

[6bblgt]

My R/T SE U code had the spacers... But the BCS was coded for 14" wheels & hubcaps...

these cars were built by bored union employees on an assembly line - mistakes happen

I can't imagine a work week installing the same component on cars as they pass your work station at 40 cars per hour 
it's only a clue - due to the ease of changing, swapping, loss over the past 40+ years

the spacer started life on TAXI & POLICE cars with oversized/HD tires
then found there way onto station wagons w/OPTIONAL 15" & HEMI b-bodies when the 15" wheels/tires became STANDARD for '68
'69 A12 cars also "needed" them with their G70-15 tires

[TobiasM]

Today is a great day for "shaky SHAKER" and me!

Why?

Cause I am happy to spread the news to this wonderful community, that Lauras package arrived at my local customs department and finally could pick it up... I am so super happy you can not imagine!

Just to bring that back to mind: that package included the two fendertags of my car and some further paperwork (e.g. old titles) that boardmember Laura managed to pick up from the seller of my car within just 24 hours!   

Before that the seller had been fooling me with stupid excuses to ship these items "next week" for over half a year! 

Laura, thanks for all and wish you ladies a wonderful time at carlisle!!!   

[Rev-It-Up]

Toby, you are very welcome! I am so glad it finally got there.     

[Cuda Cody]

That's awesome!!!!   

[usraptor]

OUTSTANDING NEWS!

[RUNCHARGER]

What a huge deal that is!