71 B5 Cuda 340 4 speed

[76orangewagon]

Those are some nice upgrades...the 'Cuda turned out great.

[Shane Kelley]

Been working on getting the suspension dialed in. Car was really loose at high speed especially in the front end going over dips in the road. I figure it's because I lowered the front end and soften the torsion bars to much. Ordered some larger clocked ones from PST that I'm going to install along with the adjustable Hotchkis shocks. I think I have the rear squared away with the exception of the springs possibly. I have to say this Hotchkis stuff is expensive but the quality is top notch. 

I have the steel to build sub frame connectors. Having a hard time bringing myself to cut into the rear factory rails. The metal is so clean and nice. I know it's not a Hemi car but it is a 71 #'s matching 340 4 speed Cuda. I ordered a set of Magnum Force bolt in connectors that I'm going to try first. They look pretty nice and i have heard good things about them.

[Cuda Cody]

Man, I'm with you.  That car is so clean I would have a hard time cutting rails.  I hope the bolt in ones work.... I know you say it's not a Hemi, but dude, it's a real 1971 Cuda 340 4 speed.  It's not like they are making any more of them.  It's a rare car and I love how you have restored it.

[CudaMoparRay]

All I can say so far is: Sir, you are truly a professionals Professional

[Moparman82]

I'll share with you the advice I got from Mike Maier (Maier Motorsports, they build some wild suspensions) when I told him I was thinking bolt in sub frame connectors, he said "bolt in sub frame connectors are only worth the cost of return shipping". Just sayin, on another note, this car is amazing, the level of work you have done here is far beyond my skill level or what I can afford to pay for! Hahaha amazing car man

[Shane Kelley]

There is no doubt welded in connectors would be superior. But I'm also sure bolting the rear spring mounts and connecting to the torsion crossmember will help better than nothing. I'm not totally against welding them if need be. They can be done either way. Either way they can be removed without cutting into the cars structure. My goal with everything I have done outside a factory build is to be able too go back original by simply changing out parts. I have all the original parts restored, boxed and sitting on shelves. I even have the original 15x7 rally's finished.

Thank you everybody for the kind words.

Hey Cody. What's that peaking out above the wheels?

[Cuda Cody]

   Look at that!!!  A nice T/A Spoiler.      Do you have a car in mind that you're going to use it on? 

[Shane Kelley]

  Look at that!!!  A nice T/A Spoiler.      Do you have a car in mind that you're going to use it on? 

I wish. It came off a TA that got parted out in the mid 80's. Sad that is was hit pretty good in the passenger side lock pillar and that ended it's life. Very fixable these days. I ended up with the dash, K member and spoiler and some other various odds and ends. I used the dash frame in my Cuda. When mine was wrecked somebody's knee did a number on it. Could have fixed it but i had this nice one. The TA was a automatic, standard dash and Plum Crazy. I still have the VIN tag in my cabinet for a souvenir.
The engine is in a buddy's orange TA now. Back in the day the guy wrecked the purple one and found another TA body to put his drive train in. As rare as the cars are they were definitely around if you were looking. Going to try and get by his house soon and get some pics of the car. Been restored since late 80's. Before repop parts were available. Back then you bought part cars and scrounge the salvage yards and picked the best parts to refurbish. Different world these days.

[nsmall]

Really love your car. Very inspiring.  I think you are making the right move leaving the option for the stock parts to go back in as your car is nicely optioned 71.  Good luck tightening that front end.

[Shane Kelley]

Front suspension is done. Extremely happy with the way the car handles. Used the specs Hotchkis recommended. -5 degree camber makes the wheels lean in at the top more than I like. Probably going to address that yet. The PST torsion bars was a real dramatic difference. Really firmed the front end up nice. Especially combined with the Hotchkis adjustable shocks. Car is a lot more high speeed stable. Rear springs need addressed next. Installed the Magnum Force subframe connectors. I am very pleased with the way they installed and fit. They don't interfere with any of the brake cables and snug up nice to floor pan. They bolt or weld on. I did put a few stitch welds where they fasten to the torsion bar crossmember.

Next upgrades are rear springs and probably the Borgeson quick ration power steering box. I'm already tired of this manual box. Switching back to 3.91 gears from the 3.55. My little motor just responds better to the 3.91.

[Cuda Cody]

Very clean work.  Nice job. 

[1badfish]

Awesome car! Great work. 

[moparcar]

Just read your complete build thread this morning. Awesome work. Top notch!

Wes

[RUNCHARGER]

It looks great. Small Blocks and 3.91's just seem to work well. I like the Magnum frame connectors as well. I just don't like welding a ladder onto the bottom of a collector car.

[Shane Kelley]

It looks great. Small Blocks and 3.91's just seem to work well. I like the Magnum frame connectors as well. I just don't like welding a ladder onto the bottom of a collector car.

I hear you. That's why I went this route instead of making a set. I didn't want all the cut and welded in structure.
With these connectors I just did 3 stitch welds on the torsion crossmember in places I can cut loose so it can be removed without ruining anything. The bolts actually seemed pretty strong by themselves. But I wanted to make sure it would flex.