72 Rallye Project

[PatO]

So having that sorted out I finished installing the remaining QA1 and Moog tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. etc.  I left the pitman arm off so I could install a new set of headers.  Since I left the pitman arm off I installed the headers from underneath, did not even have to loosen a motor mount.

[PatO]

Here are pictures of the headers installed in the engine bay, the current state of the engine compartment and from underneath the car, the headers/collectors:

[nsmall]

Start it and terrify others.  Looking great.  Nice progress.

[PatO]

Thank you nsmall! appreciate it.  Cant wait to get it fired up.

Moving to the back of the car . . . .  I had decided to use the Accurate Exhaust resonator/rear muffler set. This appealed to me for some reason, probably because I remember working on my original exhaust 45 years ago on my first Challenger. These are good quality pieces and went together well.

[PatO]

Next, I fit the Firm Feel rear sway bar.  I was concerned about clearance. As it turned out the fit was no problem.  I wanted a sway bar that was above the axle.

[PatO]

Now it got complicated. TTI headers and collectors up front and Accurate exhaust in the back.

I went ahead and bought the TTI H pipe setup. These are a nice piece to, fit real well up front, not so much in back.

[PatO]

I had asked TTI if they would do a custom bend for me but they declined.  I really can't blame them though.

I did some measurements and sketches and determined that an 8 degree bend 22" back from the rear end of the pipe should be close. I also had to weld on some couplers for a little more length.

[PatO]

By bending the pipes where I did, they were well under the floor pan for several inches and only had about 1/2" clearance between the exhaust pipe on the sheet metal.  I added a few pieces of DEI heat shield and DEI cool tape in the area to hopefully stop to much heat from getting through in this area.  Not sure I will keep it this way since I'm concerned about moisture retention if I drive in a rain storm.  But it will do for know.

Here is another picture from the rear.

[PatO]

So after a long weekend the exhaust was together and I'm pretty happy with it.  No, I haven't started it yet so I don't know how it sounds.  Soon though.

Here is my dog Riley, pretending to be interested as I explain to my wife how it went together.

[PatO]

Here's a pic of the u-joint I purchased for the drive shaft. Anlauto had posted a question about finding the right u joint size for a 340 small block with a 727.  This pic is of the one I purchased from NAPA. They have a number of different part number by different manufacturers. The first set didn't fit at all. The shoulder or radius below the cap was rounded too much.  I went back and got the other part and successfully installed my drive shaft. I'm not sure it it is an issue but if you look at the pic you'll see that 1 end cap extends past the yoke on the drive shaft and on the other fitting it is recessed in by about the same amount. It is the same on the other side also. Hope this isn't an issue. 

[PatO]

I also installed a firm feel front sway bar.

If anyone notices something amiss in some of these pictures - please let me know - it wont hurt my feelings.  I'm certainly not an expert.  I just try to study up and go slow on each new task on this car.  Thanx 

[RJChallenger]

 That doesn't look right .Did you have the caps off of the u joint? Sometimes one of the needle rollers falls over when your putting the caps back on. If the drive shaft is not centered properly would it not cause a vibration?

[YellowThumper]

That doesn't look right .Did you have the caps off of the u joint? Sometimes one of the needle rollers falls over when your putting the caps back on. If the drive shaft is not centered properly would it not cause a vibration?

I agree with and have experienced what RJ notes above.

If the other one is recessed then your driveshaft is not properly centered. Things can get bad quickly. Most likely a bearing roller is preventing full insertion.
Heed advise and pease fix...

[PatO]

OK, I went out last night with my camera and a micrometer.

Here is the driver side and passenger side shots.

[PatO]

on the drive shaft yoke the u-joint extends out the same distance. On the differential yoke, it is recessed the same distance. the distance from cap to cap is 3.11" +/-. This is the same on both u joints.

below is a close up of the u-joint, there is a snap ring on each side that holds the cap flush to the inside face of the yoke, in all positions - transmission - drive shaft/drive shaft - differential, the inside dimension of the yoke is 2.12 inches. At the front of the drive shaft, the caps of the u-joint extend past the yoke the same amount. on the transmission yoke the caps are flush.

As near as I can tell everything is centered.  I really appreciate the heads up though.  I'm thinking I'll be on the road by summertime and I'll definitely  have this on my check list.

Oh, I'm not sure if I have the original or stock drive shaft, on disassembly there were the remains of a sticker that indicated a shaft that was built/refurbished ? and balanced by a firm in California.