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AAR CUDA SVRA Project

Started by SassyAAR, April 02, 2020, 01:38:29 PM

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SassyAAR

Yes you are correct in that if I simply wanted to build a car as an AAR clone for SVRA racing any donor car would work and as long as it was within the rules it could run. Personally I wanted an actual AAR as homologated for Grp 1 and 2 racing, not a clone. The same way a privateer in 1970 would have simply bought an AAR to enter it rather than another model and then modified it. Or the way the Chrysler France team simply bought 4 Hemi Cudas for Grp 1 and raced them in essentially showroom stock form. Since my inspiration for this is Gurney's last car chassis #50231 that ended up at Le Mans etc. and raced with its 340 engine as a Plymouth I wanted an AAR for purely personal call it "purist" reasons. Besides AARs are my favorite  :bigthumb:


anlauto

That's cool....sounds like it's going to be a fun project. :twothumbsup:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

SassyAAR

Yes, I will be putting in a 4 speed hump anyways so there will be some cutting of the newish floors soon. I say newish because from what I can tell there is evidence of at least two different restorers over a long maybe 10-15 year period of time for this car and it was so dirty when we got it we figured it had sat in a barn or dusty shop for some time as someones neglected project.


SassyAAR

Glad I was able to get it off the trailer ok, only two bolts in one side holding it in.

SassyAAR

Gotta love Midwestern field cars,  ::) I think those oak leaves have been there awhile!

Time for a coffee break and to order more parts while the PB Blaster sets in.

SassyAAR

So unfortunately the car will need more body work than I originally thought. As I get deeper into it and sand away the thin fresh layer of primer I keep finding more and more bondo, body filler etc.  :verymad: 

It is no where near ready for final priming and paint and will need new metal and also some welding re done on a jig as I am not convinced it is straight.

As far as the rear axle housing and the K member, I have only ever seen rust this bad on actual steel ships . . . sitting in saltwater lol!

The pitting is deep enough in some parts I may just need to start with a new housing and find another K member.

JS29



anlauto

Sounds like what we deal with up here in Ontario all the time :'(
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

RUNCHARGER

Yes: Primered bodywork means nothing until you strip it off and see the mess.
Sheldon

SassyAAR

Yes, I may be done with E bodies and Mopars for that matter lol. I seem to have the worst luck with these cars.
Maybe I am being too harsh since the bondo is covering pinholes and swiss cheese looking perforation in non structural areas but when I am told "all metal" body in white I don't expect to find plastic.

I have been stripping the axle housing and what worries me is deep rust pitting vs surface rust compromising the integrity of the housing. I know the metal is pretty thick on these but if I grind down to eliminate the pit I fear I will just have thin spots randomly throughout. Does anyone have any experience with this? How much is too much grinding?

The K member will need some 12 gauge steel welded in to fix the holes and I will probably add some bracing as well while I am at it. The rest of the front was literally worthless and held together with two very rusty vice grips, lol. I had hoped the front end would be a lot of disassembly and restoration, instead it was mostly cutting apart worthless rusted chunks. The bottom of the power steering box literally fell off as I was moving it, looks like it had cracked from freezing?

anlauto

To do it right you should be blasting the entire body down to bare metal, but it depends on your budget because that will open a huge can of worms...
The rear axle housing and K Frame are pretty readably available for a reasonable amount, so you could be better off sourcing cleaning parts to start with. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


RUNCHARGER

Oh no: I see this over and over again and it is disheartening. Sorry for what happened but it's happened to lots of others. That steering box is a first for me though, I've never seen that before. Honestly, it's a setback but I think you should just pick it up, fix it right and fulfill your dream. The good thing is you're doing a modified car so you can take a few liberties with it. I hate saying this but I would peel that roof skin off, sorry but I think it must be done to get a look at the roof structure and fix anything that needs it. Also, really inspect the frame rails.
Sheldon

SassyAAR

Yes, you are right. I think media blasting will be the only way to go in order to do it right. Not originally in the plan or the budget though.
Also, not exactly Ontario but this car spent at least some of its life in Ohio so it has seen its share of salty winters I think.

SassyAAR

@ Runcharger, unfortunately what you are describing was never in the plan or the budget. I am a mechanical not paint and body guy and the engine intended for this vehicle was already in progress. I may just cut my losses and call it a win for the other guy, I know my limits. Maybe it can go back into hibernation in my Dad's barn, lol.

anlauto

Problem is....now is NOT the time to cut corners....What tends to happen, is you rush to get it into paint, ASSUMING the existing body work is okay or done right....then you continue on with the project spending tons of money to make your dream come alive....only to have previous body work issues come out and bite you in the ass....Can you imagine having all that money invested and the body starts bubbling out next year... :pullinghair:

The extra time and MONEY spent now might be a set-back, but it's a heck of a good way to insure the future of your project.

Professionally strip the entire shell and body panels to bare metal...then start to fix the rust, body work, and then add glorious coats of the FJ6 green :drooling:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration