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Pro Touring 68 Dart convertible

Started by Burdar, August 22, 2018, 11:47:22 AM

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Burdar

Lots of pictures in this update.  I've been putting off working on the convertible top mechanism because it was intimidating. Finally got to the point where I needed to work on it so...

I started out by taking a lot of pictures and measurments.  There are two main adjustment links at the back that have a lot of adjustability.  Before taking the bolts loose, I staked both sides of the links so I could line up the marks during assembly.  With all the measurments and pictures taken I took the mechanism to the back yard and power washed it.


Here are all the pieces of the top mechanism laid out after disassembly.


I started with the bows since those looked simple.  The tack strip material on the sides were in decent shape but there were signs of rust underneith them so they had to be removed.  The factory installed the tack strips into bare metal bows...then they were painted.  The tack strip material in the rear bow was in bad shape so that was removed as well.  I'll talk to a convertible top installer and see what they recommend before I reinstall any new tack strip material.



Original paint underneath a side bracket.  SEM Trim Black looks like a perfect match to me.


After the three bows were sanded down and painted, I turned my attention to the front header.  It looked like it was in really good shape with no sections rusted through.  After taking out the old latches though, a bunch of scaly rusty crap came out of the hollow inner cavity.  I bought a cheap endoscope for my cell phone so I could see deeper inside to assess the rust.  It looked pretty nasty.

I found a good deal on EvapoRust at Walmart.com believe it or not.  A 3.5 gallon bucket was only like $46.  I bought three.  Then I picked up some scrap 2x4 / 2x6 and OSB from work and built two boxes.  One to soak the header and one to soak the side mechanisms. 



I lined the long box with plastic and soaked the header in the EvapoRust for close to 24 hours...checking it and hosing it out periodically.  The results were impressive.
before

after


After the EvapoRust bath I sprayed the inside with Ospho(actually Concrete and Metal Prep which is the same thing) which turned the remaining rust in the tight seams black.  Then I masked off the latch openings and poured black paint into the cavity. I poured a lot in and made sure I got everything inside coated.  Then let the excess run out the other end. 

Somewhere(probably at a garage sale) I picked up a paint stripping wheel for a drill but had never tried it so I was skeptical on how good it would actually strip paint and rust.  I wasn't looking forward to stripping the paint since paint stripping SUCKS!  So, I thought I'd give that wheel a try.  Wow, it worked awsome.  I got the entire header stripped in about 15 minutes.




Then I hung the header panel on the garage door track and sprayed it with self etch primer and SEM Trim Black.  Then I repeated the steps with the side mechanisms.(EvapoRust bath/paint stripping wheel/hand sanding tight areas around all the links/painting with SEM)



Just got done assembling everything.  Sanded and polished the 6 side weatherstripping chanels and installing the weatherstripping.  I installed a new set of latches which didn't fit near as nice as the original ones...big shock I know.  One side fit ok but the other side wasn't even close to fitting.  I had to sand down the back side of the latch so it would bolt up.    Some weatherstripping needs to be trimmed and I just realized that I didn't installed the side wires(which I don't have anyway...they come with the new top)but it's basically done.
It's hard to get a nice picture of it since everything is black but it turned out nice.


larry4406

Fantastic job on the vert top mechanism restoration!

What does the drill powered paint strip device look like?  It did a fantastic job.



anlauto

Wow that looks fantastic Darren, I've got two of them to do....what's your address .. :D
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


YellowThumper

Beautiful work as usual.
Clean and tasteful.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

blown motor

Good work Darren. Glad to see you continue to progress on the car.
Who has more fun than people!
68 Charger R/T    74 Challenger Rallye 
12 Challenger RT Classic    15 Challenger SXT
79 Macho Power Wagon clone    17 Ram Rebel


Burdar

I finished the console a few days ago.  I had to return the first set of console top plates because they were warped and didn't fit well at all.  The replacement set fits much nicer.  I also modified the aftermarket shifter to fit instead of modifying the top plate.  This way I can go back to the original shifter if/when the novelty of the aftermarket shifter wears off.

The car sat with the top down for a long time before I bought it.  The console looked like it had filled with water a time or two.


I used a product I found under my bathroom sink called "Iron Out".  That did a good job at removing the rust stains.


Cleaned and waitiing on a few coates of SEM Landau Black.


A few light mist coats of Landau Black.



The original screws to attach the storage compartment door were too big and didn't fit the reproduction door.  I thought they were metric at first but it turned out they were 6-32 screws.  Those were easy to find at the hardware store.  The speed nuts that attach the main shifter plate to the console wouldn't work either.  The original "pins" on the bottom are tapered so the speed nuts will fit over them.  The reproduction "pins" aren't tapered.  Luckily I found a new set of speed nuts that I didn't use when putting my Challenger together.  I think they came with the new DODGE hood letters but I reused the original ones.  The new speed nuts have a shoulder on them so I was able to apply a little pressure to the nut driver while turning and got them to start.  I polished the original clear plastic shift indicatior lense with Meguires PlastX polish and it came out really nice.  The metal piece below the lense was just re-painted with SEM Trim Black. 







Brads70

Very nice work Darren! That console came back from the dead!  :yes:

blown motor

Fantastic Work Darren.   :clapping:  You should be in the parts restoration business.
Who has more fun than people!
68 Charger R/T    74 Challenger Rallye 
12 Challenger RT Classic    15 Challenger SXT
79 Macho Power Wagon clone    17 Ram Rebel

anlauto

Beautiful and satisfying work Darren :worship: , by that I mean, you must get great satisfaction every time your hard work to a component turns out as nice as that. :drooling: :twothumbsup:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Burdar

In December I ordered new rear interior panels from Layson's.  They were out of stock and didn't know when they would get any new ones due to covid.  Well, they finally arrived last week.  I need to get to the body shop and give them a test fit.  Hopefully there are no issues.  The original panels are super brittle and have pieces missing.


Here are the originals.








The back is somewhat interesting.  One panel looks like it was molded in pearl white.  The other looks tan.  Looking at the dealer data books, no tan interior was offered in a convertible in 68.  67 seems to show a tan though.  You can see the white overspray on the back side where the top/bottom sections were painted white.


The new panels are no longer offered in white.(only black)  The top/bottom sections will be painted white to match the upper door paint.  The center(textured part) will be painted pearl white to match the door panels.




Jocigar


Nice!  I could use a pair those for the 67, mine have 6x9 hole cut outs.

Who is Layson's, didnt know about them, do they make ebody vert panels also?  thx

anlauto

Quote from: Jocigar on September 10, 2021, 12:09:47 PM

Nice!  I could use a pair those for the 67, mine have 6x9 hole cut outs.

Who is Layson's, didnt know about them, do they make ebody vert panels also?  thx

Layson's is one of the originals, and likely one of the oldest Mopar vendors out there... https://www.laysons.com/ (with the worst website  :rofl: )

No E Body panels from them, they don't even carry the Palco ones... :headbang:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Burdar

Went to the shop this morning and test fit the interior panels.  The DS fit ok but the PS needs some work. The back of the door brushes the leading edge of the interior panel.  The leading edge looks like it bows out a little bit. I suggested heading up the panel, putting a wooden block on the edge and tapping it with a hammer to push it back a little.  The bodyshop owner said that would probably work OR we could take a little bit of material off the pinchweld to let the panel slide back some.

Car is starting to coming along nicely.  They have the door gaps much nicer and are well on their way to getting it straight.  Should be put on the rotisserie to work on the botton side in a couple weeks.  I dropped off the bumpers/brackets and the stainless trim that goes around the back opening for them to test fit.