The red on red 1970 Cuda project

[Wayne]

I've installed several sets of Wilwood rear disc brakes and they sell a universal cut-to-length E-brake cable set that is super easy and affordable to use and looks like it would directly hook up to your Baer calipers... 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-330-9371

Thanks for the link Alan.  If the company Baer suggested doesn't pan I will probably go that route.

Nice build and videos. I had subscribed to your YouTube channel and then discovered that you were on this forum not knowing you were here. Great work and great car!

Thanks, Wes

Thanks Wes, I appreciate it and thanks for subscribing and following along it means alot 

Keep it up!!!  Thanks

Thats the plan!

[Wayne]

Another small step closer.  I installed the BAER "remaster" master cylinder and their adjustable proportioning valve.  There parts really do impress.  The master is 15/16" bore as its designed to be a manual brake system.  Baer mentioned I could bypass the front distribution block or use it if I took all the internals out.  First thought it would be simple to use it and strip out the guts and that would make the lines simpler...then after looking at the block and lines closer thought I would just remove it and use a T for the front lines and a union for the back and make jumpers up to the prop. valve.  Which is what I am going to do.
  Bought a short roll of stainless brake line and the Baer kit came with some nice stainless 3/16" fittings.
  Borrowed a friends flaring tool but that wasn't working well on the stainless lines I have.  Seemed like a good idea at the time lol.  I ended up buying a new flaring tool by "Capri" that looks alot better with great reviews....I will give that a try today/this week in the next video to hopefully make the lines and modify the existing ones to the correct fittings I need/want.  They don't say its good for stainless though...it was $50.  Tools actually rated for S.S. are about $200...which I didn't want to spend.  We'll see.

[anlauto]

I picked up this one from Amazon and it works great with Stainless Lines...
https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=rvi_sccl_12/140-3216062-5770208?pd_rd_w=c0qYu&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_p=8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_r=Z893YF0WPC2BZ8NPH5P1&pd_rd_wg=ZASc3&pd_rd_r=a030bc02-3eea-4041-b460-cfdc60f68cd3&pd_rd_i=B06XPRVCPV&th=1 

[Wayne]

I picked up this one from Amazon and it works great with Stainless Lines...
https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=rvi_sccl_12/140-3216062-5770208?pd_rd_w=c0qYu&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_p=8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_r=Z893YF0WPC2BZ8NPH5P1&pd_rd_wg=ZASc3&pd_rd_r=a030bc02-3eea-4041-b460-cfdc60f68cd3&pd_rd_i=B06XPRVCPV&th=1

When you use that tool , do you use a hand file to bevel the outside edge of the line at all?   Seems like most people suggest doing that

Good to know!  That looks just like the Capri tool I ordered.   Wonder who made it first 

[anlauto]

I just make sure the "cut" is nice and clean, de-burr the inside, then flare it...after the flare, I take it to the wire wheel to clean up the final product...but this style of flare tool works great, regardless of the brand, I wish I had of found it years ago...

[Wayne]

The new flare tool made sone real good looking flares.  Going to bleed the system thus week and see how they actually seal up.  Made a couple jumper lines out of S.S. And they came out all right. 
  My parking brake cables will begin tomorrow and I'm real curious to see if they are exactly wgg he at I need.

[anlauto]

I really like that style of flare tool as well...couple of hints though....I put some anti-seize on the die threads just so it won't bind ever, and I've always been able to put the head of the tool in my bench vice...I don't think I could match your arm strength 

[anlauto]

Well my flare tool gave out on me today after doing several flares on stainless steel tubing, with only one more flare to go...it decided to pull the threads out of the insert instead   even used anti-seize too  
New one on order, will be here Friday

[Wayne]

Good tip on the anti seize.  I did use sone grease on the threads.

I did 1 round of brake bleeding and I wasn't getting any bubbles but it feels a bit soft on the first press of the peddle then gets harder.  Will have to try it again later.  Good news is the flares sealed up great. 

My parking brake cables came in and I was really impressed.  I used Control Cables and I got them both custom made to length.  Very reasonable too.

[anlauto]

Those cables look awesome...I was a little concerned when you were copying the originals for length knowing that the mounting was different, but you explained that rather nicely at the end.

As for the price....all I can say is WOW....unbelievable, because like I said earlier, I've been using Wilwood's universal kits $$$

[cudamadd]

Awesome video once again.  Nice job and just as good as all the big name products , but at half the price.

[larry4406]

Nice build you have going on here!

I started on Page 1 Post 1 this morning and read thru the whole thing and watched several of your videos.  Loved the maiden voyage and rowing the gears.

Did you ever find and fix the vibration problem with the drive train?

When you installed the GV unit did you have to do any floor pan modifications?

[Wayne]

Nice build you have going on here!

I started on Page 1 Post 1 this morning and read thru the whole thing and watched several of your videos.  Loved the maiden voyage and rowing the gears.

Did you ever find and fix the vibration problem with the drive train?

When you installed the GV unit did you have to do any floor pan modifications?

Thanks I really appreciate it.  I had to clearance a few spots with a large hammer.  Yes, the vibration was I had the driveshaft 180 out of the rear axle.....ugh.  at least something simple.



I put the Hotchkis shocks on the other day.  Real impressed with their products again. 

[Brads70]

I picked up this one from Amazon and it works great with Stainless Lines...
https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=rvi_sccl_12/140-3216062-5770208?pd_rd_w=c0qYu&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_p=8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_r=Z893YF0WPC2BZ8NPH5P1&pd_rd_wg=ZASc3&pd_rd_r=a030bc02-3eea-4041-b460-cfdc60f68cd3&pd_rd_i=B06XPRVCPV&th=1

I just got this today,  I like that I can use it under the car. 

[Brads70]

Nice build you have going on here!

I started on Page 1 Post 1 this morning and read thru the whole thing and watched several of your videos.  Loved the maiden voyage and rowing the gears.

Did you ever find and fix the vibration problem with the drive train?

When you installed the GV unit did you have to do any floor pan modifications?

Thanks I really appreciate it.  I had to clearance a few spots with a large hammer.  Yes, the vibration was I had the driveshaft 180 out of the rear axle.....ugh.  at least something simple.



I put the Hotchkis shocks on the other day.  Real impressed with their products again. 

They look like real nice shocks! 10-12 years ago when I built my car Hotchkiss just getting into the Mopar market and was using fox shocks . Nothing against them but I went with QA1 double adjustables. They are still performing nicely. I did use Hotchkiss upper control arms though, they have since changed their design to make them easier to adjust. Nice build I'm enjoying your posts and video's!