custom valve covers

[RUNCHARGER]

There's lots of good adhesives these days that's what I would try rather than cutting any type of hole through the valve cover. Panel adhesive is one adhesive I am thinking of but there are others I am sure.

[Burdar]

Yes, this is the engine for the Dart.

I bought a tube of 100% clear silicone and I'm going to do a test to see how tight of a bond it has to aluminum. Back in the 90s I had a FWD Daytona. I bought a used rear window louver at the Mopar Nats in Indy.  The louver used four small aluminum brackets that attached to the glass in each corner. I don't know what the factory used but I attached them with silicone. The louver held great for the five years that I owned it.

I do have some panel bond adhesive that I could test as well. I think maybe a thin 3M tape might work too. Once that stuff sticks, it usually doesn't come off. I could tape off the area under the aluminum stripes before paint. That way I wouldn't be trying to attach to the paint.

[IMNCARN82]

cool      what about hydro dip ?       I'm about to have my pulleys and maybe a manifold done.   other ideas. 

5 min epoxy     for us impatient types.  ha   

[Burdar]

Still researching this but I had an idea last night.  What about a pop rivet for use in a blind hole?
http://www.far.bo.it/en/products/blind-rivets/grooved-rivets.html

[HUSTLESTUFF]

One thing you can do is to get your design finished and the parts polished.  Since both are aluminum you can drill some small holes in valve covers and plug weld the parts to the cover.  Mask then paint.  Mike

[Burdar]

I ended up drilling small holes in the pieces and tapped them for 10-24 thread.  After the holes were drilled to the depth I wanted, I ground the tip off of an old drill bit.  This let me square up the bottom of the holes so there wasn't any taper at the bottom.  Then I cut threads with an old tap that had the taper ground off.  This let me cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.  I looked online and found a chart that said the minimum thread engagement of 10-24 is .133".  That's basically the depth of my holes so I should be good there.  I'll put some Loctite in the hole before installing some small studs.

I looked up the temp rating of nylon lock nuts and what I found says that most are good to around 250 degrees.  I think that is marginal at best.  I'm sure the valve covers could get hotter then that.  Maybe Loctite and the nylon lock nuts?  Unless Loctite damages nylon?

I've got the pieces polished with the more aggressive compound.  I need to use the finishing compound and install the studs...then they are finished.

[Burdar]

Other than actually attaching the aluminum pieces, the valve covers are done.  Still need to order in the lock nuts I need.

[Roadman]

   Wow, awesome.   

[CudaMoparRay]

They look great with that unique air filter housing

[HP_Cuda]

Darren

I like the covers, ever thought of engraving "Dart" or something mopar on the raised pieces?

B

[Burdar]

I hadn't thought about it. I kind of like the simplenes of the way they look. The plug wires are going to obscure a lot of them.

[1 Wild R/T]

Darren, are those the TTI Shorties?

[Burdar]

Yes they are.

[1 Wild R/T]

Would you mind taking a few side view photos?  TTI's pictures suck & I have a buddy who's considering them.... Thanks!

[Cudakiller70]

Darren, are those the TTI Shorties?

Have TTI shortys on our 71 340 4 spd, if you need any pictures of them installed. Car is up a little too so I could get some from underneath.