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HELP! Sheet Metal Repair Advice Needed

Started by 70_440-6Cuda, Today at 08:11:00 AM

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70_440-6Cuda

Ok, so it just keeps getting worse.  I have gone from a trunk floor replacement to everything from the 1/4 panels back except the tail panel.  Uncovering the WORST hack job body repairs I have ever seen.  Bondo is the least of the problems.... Rust not even cut out, just stuffed with everything and anything and then up to 1/2" if body filler.  We found hot glue - yes, hot glue - and welding wire used to hold the rear window trim in place.

So the latest and greatest?  In prepping to do the 1/4 panel swap, we found the C pillars full of holes, stuffed with tin foil and bondo.  Nothing to weld to.  A pillars aren't any better.

My fabricator said the for the hours it would take to patch and repair the areas to be able to have anything useable, he can install a roof skin and suggested that is the way to go.

That seems a little extreme, wanted to get some thoughts form the group as I am no expert. We don't have ALL the paint off the roof so don't even know if it is going to get worse.

His reasoning is he has to get the 1/4s under the roof skin so it all has to come apart very carefully, but there is no integrity and the seam, so it is going to be a giant mess, and then fabricating replacement panels and making it perfect is more work than it is worth.  For me the C pillars don't look so bad, but I am no metal fabricator.  His point is he can hack off the lower section of the roof at the 1/4 panel, and get all of the wheel wells, trunk and 1/4s installed in one go, and then skin the roof easily.

At this point, I feel like maybe having all new sheet metal from the doors back including the roof may be a value add?

Good money after bad at this point, but I am too far in now and what are the options?

Thoughts?
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy horsepower and that's kind of the same thing.....

340Challman

oof! Yeah, I think I agree with your body man. There is definitely a point where it is cheaper to replace and then deal with poor reproductions than trying to repair. Fab time can quickly get expensive. I didn't have to do a roof skin, although with all the work that went into making the roof look good, I probably should have. I did replace the A pillars. Mine weren't as bad as yours, but it still made sense.

I have not seen one or heard anything from anyone about the quality of the AMD roof skins, but I think I would look into it. The skin is only $550. Shipping will hurt, but it may still be cheaper in the long run. Be prepared for this scenario to repeat itself over and over. I thought I had a fairly rust free car. Mostly exterior metal. That turned out not to be the case. It hides everywhere. One thing I know for sure, it doesn't make any sense to spend the amount of money and time as a restoration does to leave rust behind. You have to get it all or at least stop it to the best of your ability/pocketbook.

Good luck.
Kevin

gzig5

Must have been done by the same guy that worked on mine. The more I dug, the worse it got until I just pulled the trigger on a Dynacorn rear half kit and replaced full floor, RH rockers, A pillar, door frame, and half the upper cowl.  Not to mention the full quarters and roof skin that I knew needed replacement.
 If you are paying for the labor, panel replacement is a lot less expensive in most cases than fabbing/shaping/splicing multiple patch panels. Just doing the Dynacorn unit saved a ton of labor over doing it in individual pieces.

The way I look at it, I'm not in this to flip the car and make money.  I need it to be solid and safe for the track events I plan on doing.  I'll probably be upside down at the end of it, but I don't care.  It will be done right and the way I want it done.  Still, it should cost me less than what I paid for my 2020 Ram truck depending on what I do for paint.


ebodyproducts

Buy the AMD A-Pillar skins, unless the inner and outer are gone.  Roof Skin may be needed.
E-Body Products
www.ebodyproducts.com
606-481-9014


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