Holes in firewall, prepare for Vintage Air

[soundcontrol]

Cleaning up my firewall, filling holes I don't need. Tried to figure out what holes are being used by Vintage Air, it's not superclear in the install instructions and I can't find any good install pictures. Seems like I can fill the bolt mounting holes for the stock AC box, what I can see, the drain hole (the one to the right under the fan) are being used, (there is a plug included for the hole next to it, I see no mention of the third big hole to the right under the fan. 

Wonder also what to do with the hole for the throttle wire, planning on using an electronic gas pedal, but what if it dosen't work....maybe I plug it, just in case. 

Brake line, the stock location is pretty ugly, was thinking of running it on the flange to the floor boards, anyone done that?

[soundcontrol]

Anyone knows what the holes above the splashguard labeled "Label" are for?

[Cuda Cody]

Could you take your old throttle cable and cut out the firewall clip that fits in the hole and just put it in the hole to plug it?  That way if you ever have to go back to a wired throttle cable it's still there and accessible.

[soundcontrol]

Could you take your old throttle cable and cut out the firewall clip that fits in the hole and just put it in the hole to plug it?  That way if you ever have to go back to a wired throttle cable it's still there and accessible.

Yeah, thats a good idea, I'll do that!

[GoodysGotaCuda]

The Vintage Air installation process and hole definition is horrid. I chose to not put any holes in my firewall to mount their box, it was more work, but I did not want mislocated holes in a newly painted engine bay due to their poorly defined instructions. I would also consider getting rid of their giant blower motor/line plate, it works, but does not look good at all. I wish I had just closed up the firewall completely and made holes as needed for line/hose pass-through.

[cataclysm80]

I would also consider getting rid of their giant blower motor/line plate, it works, but does not look good at all. I wish I had just closed up the firewall completely and made holes as needed for line/hose pass-through.

I agree, that big plate looks terrible.  I was considering using a Vintage Air kit because of concern about the vacuum pods functioning on the stock air conditioning box, but after seeing Vintage Air on a car in person, I just don't like the look of it at all. 
Anyone know how to hook up electric servos in place of the stock vacuum pods?

[cataclysm80]

Anyone knows what the holes above the splashguard labeled "Label" are for?

Yep, that's my car.   I probably shouldn't have posted all those pics without double checking that the labels were finished first.

The holes you're asking about above the splash shield are for the brake distribution/proportioning blocks.

[cataclysm80]

the drain hole (the one to the right under the fan) are being used, (there is a plug included for the hole next to it, I see no mention of the third big hole to the right under the fan. 

Brake line, the stock location is pretty ugly, was thinking of running it on the flange to the floor boards, anyone done that?

The hole directly under the AC blower fan originally had a rubber elbow that connected it up to the fan.

The hole at the far right was the drain for the AC box.  Condensation would exit here and fall onto the pavement.

The hole in the middle with the 3 screw holes around it (under the brake line clip) is for a rubber grommet that the AC vacuum line passed through.  On some 1970 cars, the temp control cable to the water valve also passed through this grommet.  Other cars had that cable pass through one of the insulation pin holes over by the brake booster.   
I don't recall for sure off the top of my head, but I'm thinking that hole and grommet for the AC vacuum line was changed in later years.  What year is your car?

I'm not sure if the Vintage Air setup uses a temp control cable or a water valve.  You should find out before going much further though.
I'd suggest test fitting the Vintage Air setup, so that you know for sure what holes are used, how big they need to be, and that they're located where you want them.

If you're really trying to smooth out the firewall, you could get rid of all the holes for the insulation pins.  The factory fiberglass insulation could be glued into place inside the firewall, or you could use another type of insulation like Lizard Skin or Dynamat.

I've never heard of anyone relocating the brake line down there.  I wonder if engine heat would be an issue?  The floor board flange you're talking about has a notch in it, near where the drivers side exhaust passes by.

[soundcontrol]

Thanks, it's a -70. The VA unit used the big fan hole for all 4 outgoing connections, comes with a cover that goes over that big hole. Good idea to test fit it first. Yes, I am using Noico (kinda like Dynamat) for  insulation, will weld up all those holes also.

Yeah, maybe there is a reason the brakeline is that high up on the firewall, gonna investigate that further.

[Cuda Cody]

Saw this come up today for sale...

[ebay]322471520597[/ebay]

[Husk Challenger]

There is some pics of my vintage air system in this topic.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/ac-identification/598/

My car is a 73.
If you need more pics let me know, it may help. 

[YellowThumper]

By the looks of what Cody posted, they follow the same as other makes by having all 4 main lines come thru the large hole.
My vote is to fill in everything and route the lines thru an in line bulkhead inside the fenderwell. With everything filled there is no chance of "missing" one that you will forever regret. That is the route I am taking a cause I used the big hole for all the EFI conversion wiring.

[cudaragtop]

Didn't like the look of the plate over the blower motor hole or the location of the factory heater hose openings.
So I filled the holes in my A-Body.

Went with Classic Auto Air Custom Colder Evaporator. Will use Bulkhead fittings to bring all the hoses through the inside of the fender to keep them out of the engine compartment as much as possible. Still need to plan it out.
Page 86 http://www.classicautoair.com/catalogretrofitac.html

Also thinking about an electric compressor hidden in the fender too. More research required...
Electric Power Assisted Steering too. All to keep as much out of the engine bay as possible.
Only thing running on a belt would be the alternator, that is my hope.

[soundcontrol]

Thanks Husk Challenger, I see in your pictures that the hole I was wondering about is covered by the bit plate with all the outlets.

@YellowThumper & @cudaragtop, hmm, now you got me thinking. Maybe I should do that also, sure is not a pretty sight with those lines and hoses. And I really don't like the recommendation by Vintage Air to run the lines over the radiator support. One problem with that is my AC compressor is mounted low on the driver side (6.1 Hemi) and I still have not figured out the best way to get the AC hoses there. Thought I'll do that when I test fitted the engine. There might be issues with the headers etc, don't know yet. YellowThumper, do you have a thread with pictures? I tried to look on CC but the site seems to be down with data base errors now.
My wiring will go thru a hole (I have to make one) right behind the right fuel rail. So I could weld up the big fan hole also.
Big decision...

[YellowThumper]

I do not have the Vintage Air setup yet.
Original heater is removed because I found a rubber plug that actually snaps into existing motor hole. MY motor hole without air is basically round. Just made a plate that blocks off the hose holes and snapped the plug in for the wiring pass thru.

Thanks Husk Challenger, I see in your pictures that the hole I was wondering about is covered by the bit plate with all the outlets.

@YellowThumper & @cudaragtop, hmm, now you got me thinking. Maybe I should do that also, sure is not a pretty sight with those lines and hoses. And I really don't like the recommendation by Vintage Air to run the lines over the radiator support. One problem with that is my AC compressor is mounted low on the driver side (6.1 Hemi) and I still have not figured out the best way to get the AC hoses there. Thought I'll do that when I test fitted the engine. There might be issues with the headers etc, don't know yet. YellowThumper, do you have a thread with pictures? I tried to look on CC but the site seems to be down with data base errors now.
My wiring will go thru a hole (I have to make one) right behind the right fuel rail. So I could weld up the big fan hole also.
Big decision...