new member, first of many questions

[anlauto]

Should have the car completely blasted properly first....then access the rust issues

[Cuda Cody]

   step one is to blast the car and start with a clean surface.  Then put it in to epoxy and then you start your body work.     Looks like you have a few things to fix, but nothing to terrible.     It's all doable. 

[71GranCoupe]

Another  from Spokane. Your car looks about the same as my Gran Coupe. It had been blasted and started removing rear metal and stopped at the package tray. It does have some light surface rust in places, so as Cody mentioned, after blasting, primer the body, even though some of the parts are coming off.

My wheels housings were a little better than what I see in yours. I had to do a small patch on one, but still ended up getting 2 qtrs, full trunk pan with drop offs and the rear tail panel.

Picture below of where I am at, slow going but progressing. As good as the AMD stuff is, it still needs work before installation. Right now getting ready to install the trunk pan, then will be test fitting the qtrs and the drop offs with the tail panel.

As Cody said, it is all replaceable and very doable. Good luck on the project and keep us posted.

[Jocigar]

thanks all, 

It has been stripped and garaged for many years thus the surface flash rust.

I will look into having it blasted, should they use
specific media?
approx. cost? 
Mobile service ok?

Compared to my other cars this one is very solid, hood latches, lower rears and some Dutchman issues.   trunk pan was replaced long time ago when I first started the project. 

While I work on finding a sandblasting service, anyone care to chip in on rear quarters please?  I stripped to the body line because its a give lowers need replacing.   
Can I or should patch ? 
upper dents fixable?   

Honestly, I would rather not go full quarter route...scares me and there is good metal there even if dented.  Thx!!

[A.Gramz]

While I work on finding a sandblasting service, anyone care to chip in on rear quarters please?  I stripped to the body line because its a give lowers need replacing.   
Can I or should patch ? 
upper dents fixable?   

Honestly, I would rather not go full quarter route...scares me and there is good metal there even if dented.  Thx!!

I'm currently working on installing quarter skins.  All I can say is I'm kicking myself for not spending a bit more for full 1/4s.   Im still considering buying fills.  Just my 

[Cuda Cody]

If it was me I would just hang full quarters, but I've done them a few times and feel I can do them faster then fixing all the small dents and hanging patches.  But it's probably 6 of one half dozen of the other if you know what I mean.

But blasting the whole car is pretty much a have to on my list.  Find someone that has done vehicle blasting before.  They all say they can do it.  Seriously man, every blaster you talk to will say they can blast a car and not wrap it.  I bet less then half of them can do it without messing it up.  Find someone that will give you customer names that you can talk to and see how the blasting went and did they end up with any wrapped panels.  There's normally one or two good blasters in every area that does 90% of all the cars.  Once people know a blaster does good work, they go back to him over and over.

Put the car in epoxy right after you blast it.  There's a few steps that you want to do and I've been meaning to write a quick step by step thread to share the right ways to do it.  I'll try to write the thread in the next couple days.

[Jocigar]

Look forward to the steps list Cody!

All, If I butt joint and spot weld, will I be able to hide the seam from coming out or showing down years down the road?

I remember something about hot weather days making the seam show through paint? does this apply to any patch work with spot welding? 

Thanks for input Gramz, I've contemplated this to stagnation.  I have rust issues only behind the wheels not in front, dents suck and in difficult places to knock out. 

   

[Cuda Cody]

Anytime you weld you heat treat the metal.  Harded heat treated metal will expand and contract at a different rate them untreated metal.  Most likely it will not be a big deal.  Today's primers and paints are pretty good and will most likely not show it through.

[Jocigar]

following up on the rear qtr.

Left side is in best shape so thinking of starting there.. would this type of patch work?

Is the diagonal cut line a no no?

I have old (goodmark?) skins I can cut and patch with.

Thanks in advance.   

[Cuda Cody]

Most people try to hang skins near a body line so the added strength of the line helps hold the panel in place during welding (heat).  When you replace a patch like that you need to be extremely careful not to get it to hot and warp the panel.  Yes, you can patch that area in and if you can keep the heat down it will look like new.  But if you get it hot it will warp on you fast.  Have something standing by like an air hose to blow the stitch welds off as soon as you get done welding.  If you have someone that can help you, have them do the cold air so the split second you are done welding they will blow the weld cold.  Some people will use cold water.  The key is not to get it too hot.

[Jocigar]

That fender patch looks amazing.

Ok,  What do I use for the cuts, wheel/saw?   Do I sandwich skin on and try to cut through both?

I will need to order inner fender skirts,  not sure if I have the rear valance is aftermarket just as good?

thanks for the help

[Cuda Cody]

@Jocigar   I started out writing a quick thread about paint, but it kept getting longer and longer.  SO I ended up just putting a little article together that covers some tips and tricks plus all the steps I do to paint a car.  Hope it helps.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/body-shop/5/how-to-paint-a-show-car-finish/3186/

https://www.e-bodies.org/how-to-paint-a-show-car-step-by-step-guide/

[HP_Cuda]

Sometimes hanging new quarters will pay off in the reduced amount of body work.