Panel Fix Advice

[gzig5]

We found that the inside panel behind the rear door jamb on the passenger side is all wonky from a past wreck.  The rocker and rear jamb are replaced (jamb not welded yet) as will the quarter, but I need to either straighten or replace the inner panel that the rear window crank assy mounts to.  Is this available in aftermarket?  So far I haven't found it, but I don't know what to call it.
If not, I'm looking for suggestions on how to straighten it out.  Cutting it out and doing it on the welding table looks appealing but maybe too drastic? The whole panel is leaning to the outside and the bottom section is wrinkled pretty good, preventing the door jamb from seating flush to the rocker.  The metal is probably stretched so will likely need some heat or cutting/splicing to straighten it.  Hope the pics will show it.

[gzig5]

Actually with the lock pillar removed the panel is very accessible. It flexes like a wet noodle and it has zero strength but I think I can tweak and reinforce it so it will suffice. The hammer mechanic that worked on this thing after the accident should have his tools crushed.

[JS29]

That is what flat rate is all about, and the customer never saw it because it was hidden.   

[70 Top Banana]

Depends on what you want to do. You could probably finesse it fit better than it does because, as you say, you won't see it. Or cut it out, make a piece to fit and weld it in.

[gzig5]

I'm making decent progress on it, but hammer and dolly only can do so much.  The bowed part is so stretched I can't shrink it back, so I'll cut it and splice it back.  I will endeavor to hide most of the worts but at some point I need to quit cutting bait and get to the bigger jobs that await.

[jimynick]

So, the 1/4 is only bolted on so far? If so, take it off and shrink/straighten the inner. With a hammer and dolly at hand, take a torch and heat a spot the size of a dime, red hot in the centre of the warp and using the hammer backed by the dolly, gently apply hits towards the centre of the hot spot all way around being careful to avoid a hard, metal on metal sound as you work the stretch inwards. It can take several applications and move around the stretch rather than stay in one spot. Cold shrink what you can ans watch a couple of YouTube vids to really get a sense of what I'm talking about. Once you get the idea, it'll come for you. Good luck and cool the hot spots, once hammered, with a blow gun.