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Sail Panel Filler, whats best 70 Challenger

Started by Marksmopar1, December 13, 2018, 08:40:47 PM

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Cuda Cody

Please, I say this with kindness, do not mistake some peoples passion for being rude.  There's a lot of different ways people do it and each way has advantages and disadvantages so what might be right for one person is not always going to be the best option for others.  I have a passion to do things a certain way.  That does not mean it's the right way for you, it's just what I like.  I've used all-metal, firbal and lead.  They are all good products and each have places I like to use them.  Use whatever you feel is best for your situation and please check back in with us to give us an update.  I like learner and hearing how things turn out.  I can assure you that if your passion is to use All-Metal or anything else I'm not going to mistake it for being rude.  If it's the right product for you, that's great and I'm sure if it's used correctly it will turn out good.

anlauto

Where are the offensive answers ?
You said you wanted to try "All Metal"
One person said "watch breathing the stuff"
Another said he "wasn't impressed", and Sheldon thought "it wasn't great"

To me that seems like reasonable responses from people who have used the product. ? Did I miss something ? Are you only looking for opinions that agree with yours ?
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

1 Wild R/T

Quote from: 70 Challenger Lover on December 16, 2018, 12:01:38 PM
Quote from: Marksmopar1 on December 16, 2018, 11:49:34 AM
Well, I must say...some hostile replied to a simple question...

Yes, I understand the lead,,,longevity of it 40+ years ETC..ETC.. Simply, I was asking what where people using other than lead if anything being the lead use is 40+ years old and we now have so many new products on the market. Hey...could there be something out there that is superior to lead these days? I mentioned All Metal because it was mentioned to me,,,thats it quite simple.
  I thought this was a forum of common interest and asking a question on a process or product would return answers of reason and aid.
  Some of the replies surprise me honestly. Quite simple to give an opinion without smart ass inserts or nasty shots I would think... I am disappoint in the replies. I'll use Lead, All Metal or whatever. I'll figure it out and run with it....
   Thanks anyway.

None of us meant to upset you. Simply offer opinions based on experience. For what it is worth, I have used a product by Evercoat called "metal to metal" which I actually like. It's heavy and goes on nice. Sands well. I used it on a sail panel of a friends car and it worked great but he sold it soon after so I can't speak to how it worked in the long run. I still have some of the stuff left and I like to use it around small metal repairs like the corners of front and rear windows. Probably not needed since all the new metal is welded up but I like it to give a nice finished look (which is probably silly since it all gets covered up by trim anyway).

Nice save... Since the O/P deleted his post....

To the O/P clearly you've decided how you want to proceed....  So go for it.... These guys have no skin in the game, they simply wanted to provide their experiences... You know, kinda what you asked about.....  If you just want folks that say your right do it your way/... Here ya go..

Your Right Do It Your Way.... :cheers:



Topcat

#18
This is where we loose a lot of people restoring their car when they reach the cross roads on doing Lead work or go the filler route. Approximately, $300 dollars plus.

While this may not be ideally your list you do, it's  close to all the items I used.


If you do decide to go Lead; here is Resto Rick's tutorial:

http://www.restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=33



You'll need to buy:

Body solder kit
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-standard-body-solder-kit.html

10 sticks
https://www.eastwood.com/body-soldering-sticks-10-pack.html

Benzomatic (best for a pencil flame) easiest to use
https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Manual-Ignition/WK5500OX

One lb. Propane (for heating panel prior to tinning)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Propane-Cylinder-16oz/20923696

A broad flame tip for pre heating sheet metal
https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-Basic-UL2317-Pencil-Propane/dp/B00008ZA0C

Wax & Grease remover
https://repaintsupply.com/kleanstrip-esw362-prep-all-wax-and-grease-remover-p904.html

(optional) Best IMO
https://www.kmstools.com/1l-pump-presurized-spray-bottle-11985

Heat resistant Gloves
https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/heat-resistant-leather-gloves-14506621988.html

Automotive respirator
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-organic-vaporp95-dual-cartridge-respirator-packout-p-15309.aspx

Roloc pads
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-green-corps-roloc-2-3-discs-p-11323.aspx

Roloc Pad assembly
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-roloc-3-disc-pad-assembly-05540-p-11326.aspx

Safety Glasses
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sas-overspray-goggles-p-15704.aspx

RUNCHARGER

Ok: Sorry but you're going to think I am blunt. I have a ton of experience doing this and you asked for opinions/suggestions.
I gave my opinion and it seems it did not match up with what you thought would work.
Well, I thought that is why you were asking so I gave my opinion based on lots of experience. I do not at all think I was being offensive.
You offended me by asking for an opinion and then ignoring it. (actually not, it doesn't matter to me a bit, however I like seeing Mopars done correctly).
Sheldon

RUNCHARGER

Now that you've read that. Please don't be offended, we all want what's best for your car. Don't be afraid to post again as we will give you straight answers on what we think is right. Some of our answers will be different because different people use different techniques and achieve different results.
We all love E-bodies here and no one here is on any mission to hurt anyone's feelings.
Sheldon

70 Challenger Lover

Topcat,

That's a nice comprehensive list to do a leading job. I'm going to be doing my first lead job at some point in the near future and I didn't realize there were still a couple other things I needed for it to go smoothly. Thanks for taking the time to do that! I snapped a shot of it for reference.


Topcat

Quote from: 70 Challenger Lover on December 16, 2018, 02:50:02 PM
Topcat,

That's a nice comprehensive list to do a leading job. I'm going to be doing my first lead job at some point in the near future and I didn't realize there were still a couple other things I needed for it to go smoothly. Thanks for taking the time to do that! I snapped a shot of it for reference.

You're  welcome.

If you're like me when I did mine; you're gonna waste a few bars trying to figure out the melting point on the Lead.
So make  sure you have a few to learn with; maybe on something to practice on first.
This is why I emphasized the Benzomatic pencil torch. The small flame matches up well to the size of the smaller bars.

With these smaller bars, they work really well compared to the 1 inch across bars.

The trick is when you begin applying heat to the bar, it begins changing to a dull silver color.
THAT is when it's almost ready to apply and smear.

I would also search Youtube tutorials on doing leadwork to see how some others have done it.

Maybe we need one here? @Cuda Cody   :bigthumb:

Edit: I made some revisions on the list as well so re check it if needed.

70 Challenger Lover

I think Cody definitely needs to add that tutorial!  I was given a whole box of stuff which included most of what you listed and there must be 15 pounds or more of the small lead bars. Plenty of extra for me to practice and learn on. There was one video I saw I think an Eastwood video. The guy seemed to really know his stuff. He did not make it look easy or fun but it was certainly doable if you were patient. He really stressed how important each step was though. I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

Topcat

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=749&v=87fuTnBS2bE

On a rotisserie, will make it easier too so you won't be fighting gravity as much.

70 Challenger Lover

That's the video. I watched it a couple times just to be sure I fully understood it. He's clearly knowledgeable.


1 Wild R/T

Two methods work, as Sheldon mentioned cut a strip of metal to fit the channel & TIG it in the channel then finish with modern plastic filler....  Or do the lead.... Both methods give good lasting results.....  All Metal has been around a long time, it's crap.... It's a name people have heard of so they think it's good stuff.... Kinda like how people who don't know better think Fram filters are great....

As mentioned Metal2Metal is a similar product & is a better produce, neither is as good as lead or welding the filler strip in...

I don't mean to bust your balls but we here have already done what your looking to do, most of us have tried the easy way, now we are believers in the right way...

If your asking a shop your gonna have to look long & hard to find one that recommends using lead and even harder to find one that can/will do lead properly... It's not really hard, it's time consuming & these days production work makes shops allot more money then vintage restoration stuff....


Topcat

If i could say one thing...

Bite the Bullet: do it with Lead, learn how, and sleep at night from then on it was done right and never look back.

If you're not willing to learn; then you don't love your project enough to make it right.   :alan2cents:



Bridging a gap of metal across the seam and fabbing it to make it as though they were all one piece will be more time spent.

An English wheel expert to get the right curvature for the patch over would be recommended.

Otherwise you're right back to filler.
Lumpy metal...uneven albeit.

jimynick

"Seams" we touched a nerve here, and for my part, let me say that that was never my intent. I got my bodyman's licence in 1974 and still do my own- and a select few's- work to this day. I don't walk on water and the Lord knows I've made my share of mistakes, but my intention here was to give- as asked- my best empirical advice; and that's just what I did. I hope that the OP doesn't take our adamance the wrong way; it's just that, as mentioned, we've "been there and done that" and I feel safe in stating that I'm confident that our tribal responses are meant in a helping and not dismissive way. Don't ever feel shy to ask more questions and please, don't ever feel like we're down on you for the asking. Good luck with your repair.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

rhamson

Quote from: Cuda Cody on December 13, 2018, 11:10:45 PM
I would use Lead again.   :alan2cents:
:iagree: That's what I do. Just be sure to use a mask and keep your hands away from your mouth. Lead is poison.