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Springs for fiberglass T/A hood

Started by Scooter, August 11, 2022, 01:25:19 PM

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Scooter

Used search.. a few older threads on this topic I did not want to resurrect.

Getting ready to install my new T/A hood on my Challenger. I had picked up a set of Harwood 210 springs to replace the stock set as quite a few others had stated they worked well and did not bow the hood with the extra stress. The Harwood spring hooks sit neutral on the same axis so you have to twist a bit to get it into place. The stock spring hooks are offset 90 degrees. Got the first one on the hinge and it sits oddly at the bottom as you'd expect.. photo below. Is this typical? Think it will cause any issues?


Scooter

Had some replies in wrong thread... moving them here.

Quote from: Scooter on August 14, 2022, 02:32:59 PM
Gonna rez this older thread. Installing the T/A hood on my Challenger and I notice from photos that it seems split in regard to the molding at the very front of the hood... some have it on... some leave it off. I'm looking at the molding on the bulge hood and the mounting screws go into the bottom of the hood. This would not work for the fiberglass hood. It looks like the screws would need to go into the backside of the front lip of the hood and there is not a lot of meat to bit into there with a screw. Am I seeing this correctly?

For those who mounted it... how'd ya secure it?

For those who left it off... do you miss it?   


Scooter

Quote from: Scooter on August 14, 2022, 05:19:49 PM
Quote from: anlauto on August 14, 2022, 05:12:33 PM
The 70 style trim has clips with studs and nuts on the backside, you'll need to scuff the aluminum and paint to match the hood of course, but ya can't go without it, I think it would look odd :alan2cents:

Banging... that's the piece of the puzzle I was missing. Been looking at the molding on the bulge hood for some time now....  Thanks 1k! Now I get the stress for drilling the holes for the molding and the hood pins... lol.

:bigthumb:


Scooter

Quote from: Scooter on August 15, 2022, 07:49:11 AM
Quick follow up on this one... was cruising Ebay and found a 70-71 hood molding with mounting hardware here:

1970-1971 Dodge Challenger Hood Lip Molding Trim with Hardware MoPar NEW 70 71
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192997041695

Listing said last one in stock so I hit buy it now. Was reading the detail description and it says in part:

Quote1970-1971 Dodge Challenger Hood Lip Molding
This is a high-quality, new, factory-style replacement hood lip molding for 1970-71 Dodge Challenger models (except T/A).
. . .

Except T/A? The photo in the listing shows the trim on a T/A...lol. Any ideas on why it would say no-go for T/A?


Scooter

Quote from: Scooter on August 15, 2022, 12:29:41 PM
Quote from: anlauto on August 15, 2022, 08:01:01 AM
Apparently, as I've just learned now, the T/A hood one is 1/4" shorter ???? I have no idea why that would be ???? I think you'll be alright because you have an aftermarket hood maybe. Measure the width of the hood compared to your steel hood....

Here's David's description:  https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/hood-lip-molding-70-challenger/

As a side note, you should always look to Roseville Moparts first for not only better pricing, but to take advantage of our member discount as well. :twothumbsup:

......and if you had of called them, and mentioned what you were doing, they likely would have explained the difference in the trim pieces. :drinkingbud:

Well heck.. I'm already pregnant with the Ebay purchase so lesson learned. I'll be sure to hit Roseville up next time. The new hood comes right up to the molding so I think you are correct I'll likely be ok.

Thanks for getting me that info!

As a side note I was able to get the Harwood 210 springs to work. You need to trim just a bit off the lower spring tang so it can rotate correctly as the hood closes.

Before


After



Hood sits pretty flat with springs installed.. passenger side up a bit.. I can live with it for the convenience of having working springs.




Next up.. getting the hood latch to work. Pop rivet installed in a not great position for the application.


shawge

Looks good. Are you planning on hood pins too?

I like the idea of using the hood latch w/ the T/A hood, even though it is not OEM.  Would help deter ppl from just pulling the pins to take a look under the hood  :vipermanhiding:
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet

Scooter

Quote from: shawge on August 16, 2022, 10:25:32 AM
Looks good. Are you planning on hood pins too?

I like the idea of using the hood latch w/ the T/A hood, even though it is not OEM.  Would help deter ppl from just pulling the pins to take a look under the hood  :vipermanhiding:

Yes.. will be installing hood pins too. Just waiting to get alignment on the new glass hood nailed before I drill the holes. Had to do some custom bending on the latch bar and add a washer... a bit of adjusting on the latch mechanism (down and to the right).. in and done! Honestly don't think I'll be able to get the gaps any closer than this. I'm ready to drill the hood pin holes later today or tomorrow.







Brads70


Scooter

Hood pins in.. just waiting for front lip molding now.



Quick follow up... how important is the hood seal? Anyone running without it notice any difference?




Scooter

Slight update.. I tried the slightly lighter Harwood 200 springs and they hold the TA hood up just fine as well with a little less bowing on the hood when closed. I'll take every little bit. Had to trim the tips of the lower spring hook like the 210's.

Received the hood lip molding trim in the post as well. Length is fine side to side. Issue would be mounting. The molding is taller than the lip on the front of the hood. Seems like I would look awkward to have it on, you would have to bias it toward the top if the mounting holes are centered in the lip. Anyone have one of these installed able to post up a few photos of how you did yours? I searched the interwebby but cannot locate any real clear shots.

anlauto

Sounds absolutely dumb I know.....but how about gluing the trim on with a good quality panel bond  or epoxy ? :thinking: you're going to scuff and paint the trim with the hood anyways  :dunno:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Scooter

Quote from: anlauto on August 30, 2022, 03:59:17 PM
Sounds absolutely dumb I know.....but how about gluing the trim on with a good quality panel bond  or epoxy ? :thinking: you're going to scuff and paint the trim with the hood anyways  :dunno:

I don't think there is enough contact surface for that to work. The back of the molding is like a u-channel and the flat on the front of the hood is just over 1/2 inch tall at it's thickest point and less than that at the corners.

Brads70

Does this picture help? This is how I mounted the hood molding to my T/A hood?

Scooter

Quote from: Brads70 on August 31, 2022, 05:12:06 PM
Does this picture help? This is how I mounted the hood molding to my T/A hood?

Hi Brad, thanks for the reply and photos. Do you have any photos of where you located the holes on the hood lip and how the molding sits installed?

The hood lip seems really small compared to the molding... likely it will only sit flush on one side if at all. Did you bias the mounting to the top or bottom? Or if the holes are drilled centered in the lip do you even have a choice? I mocked the molding up with blue tape and the result is less than encouraging. Looked as if it would stay over the top of the hood.. did not get photos but will next attempt. 




Brads70

I mounted mine so it fit somewhat flush with the top of the hood. Here are some pictures of the backside?