Unsticking a door

[HP2]

While I'm working on the front third of the car this winter, I wanted to get the door alignment set so I don't have to remove hinges after I paint the cowl. Not a big deal to do doors alone, but certainly tedious, and I finally got everything lined up where I wanted.

Problem occurred when I tried to open the passenger door afterwords. Lifting the outside release handle and I heard it click but the door didn't move. Since I had the windows down, started pulling on the door and it wouldn't budge. Checked the lock and it was unlocked. Cycled it to verify, yep, its unlocked. Pulled the release handle on the interior and no dice.  Grabbed a flashlight to shine it down the window slot to watch the mechanism and sure enough, the lock and both release handles are moving the levers in the latch. But the damn thing feels like it is locked in place and won't budge.

Suggestion on what to try next?

[jimynick]

That's a tough one. I've seen it where although moving, the latch and/or the lock were not moving enough and putting it into a sort of stall. I read you saw the levers moving, but my question would be were they moving enough and fully. First thing I'd do would be to spray a good lubricant into the latch and keep working the lock and latch levers to see if you can regain full movement individually. Can you get a rod/lever into the door enough to manually push the latch lever and possibly trip to open the door? If you can, I'd pull the latch and soak it in degreaser, wash it out and re-grease it. I don't know if this'll work, but good luck nonetheless. 

[Mopar5]

Are you using your striker to set the door height? Maybe try adjusting with the hinges to get the door height first sounds like its hanging up on the striker pull UP on the door and see if it opens.

[Fern]

Is this a hardtop or convertible?
I had an issue with on a convertible, where the metal shims, on the jamb would pass the plastic guides, on the door and lock it into place.

[cuda hunter]

I agree with Mopar5 that perhaps the door is stuck on the striker post.
Can you get the lock to move if you work it and push down on the door itself or perhaps pull up on the door while moving the lock.

Are you working on a 72 challenger? 

[Brads70]

When my car came back from body shop/paint I had a similar issue, turned out to be all the sanding dust had clogged up the lock mechanism as I had a lot of white lithium  grease on it. The lever moved back and forth but didn't unlock. I got in there with a can of brake cleaner and compressed air and gave it a good flushing out ( had a rag at the bottom so it wouldn't drip on the new paint) then re lubed it and it's been working fine since. 

[HP2]

Striker was removed while setting alignment. It was reinstalled after eyeballing its new position. Although I have hung a door on a striker before and it does feel likes the door is hung on it, but usually you can lift/push and get it to come loose. This time it isn't budging, like the latch isn't releasing at all.

This is a 74 Challenger hardtop.

I'll see if I can get a pry bar in there and make sure the levers are getting full range of motion, possibly hit it with brake fluid cleaner. Gotta admit, I've never cleaned these.

Thanks for the ideas...

[tparker]

I agree with @Mopar5. My '70 has that issue. It is stuck on the striker. The doors sag a bit. I pulled the door during repainting and it seems to sit low. If I lift it up a bit it will come loose.

[HP2]

Finally got out to work on it today. I started moving different handles and carefully observed each rod movement as I worked each handle. While I was moving the outer door handle and because its colder than a well digger's brass monkey, the retaining clips on it broke and the rod popped out of the lock mechanism. While I was looking at it thinking about what a pisser that was, it dawned on me that the rod from the outside lock cylinder was missing as well, and the lock lever that attaches to it was up and in the locked position. So I started moving the inside lock and watching the mechanism move until I figured out what the motion of the outside lock rod would be. I then slide a long pry bar into the door, pushed the exterior lock lever down, pulled the inside handle, pulled on the door, and the Muther popped upon finally!

After that, took the latch assembly out. Spent some time straightening things out on it as it had a few bent pieces. I'll clean it up and re-lube it tomorrow. Might swing by the local parts store and pick up a pack of the plastic rod retainer clips and put it back together. Should hopefully work fine after that. 

Since I need to replace the driver side lower hinge sometime soon, I might dive into that latch assembly while I'm messing with the door to avoid this problem with that side.

Thanks for the tips everyone!

[EV2RTSE]

I'm following along as I also have the same problem with my passenger's side door - one other thing that may be helpful, I think credit for this pic goes to AGAR who had posted that an adjustment can be made to the latch to increase or decrease how quickly the door handle pops the latch open-

[Cuda Cody]

 

[HP2]

I'll definitely play around with that door handle throw adjustment. It always had seemed like that door required a pretty full throw of the lever to release the door.

I am a bit surprised by the big honkin' counter-weight on the lock lever. Mopar stuff is sometimes surprising.

Also found out Year One has reproduction lower hinges for only $75 each and entire kits for both doors for $268. That doesn't seem too bad if they actually work well.

[EV2RTSE]

Not sure if the repop door hinges are any good or not but I'd think rebuilt originals would be the way to go given a choice. I bought a bushing kit for my door hinges and the shop that did the metal work on my car was able to install them. I'd suggest checking with MoparLeo if you want to have your original door hinges rebuilt-

https://forum.e-bodies.org/deals-coupons-vendor-specials-and-product-reviews/16/shout-out-to-member-moparleo-rebuilt-door-hinges/29539/msg322314#msg322314