Coolant % in a warm climate

[mopar thunder]

I was just wondering what % do you use if you live in a warm/hot climate?  And do you use a thermostat? Thanks

[ToxicWolf]

Here in Florida I just use water with water wetter.    

[Dakota]

I've always operated with a 50/50 mix ratio of water/antifreeze, whether living in the cold of NY or the heat of Texas.   

[Marc70challenger]

Here in Florida I just use water with water wetter.   

Anti-freeze lowers the thermodynamic cooling properties of water.  And with using distilled water with something like Water Wetter or RMI25 it helps cooling even more and protection to block/radiator

Use it in one of our cars that stays in the garage. A 50$ electric space heater keeps garage over 60F even with outside temps in the 30s

Here's chart if you want to use antifreeze less than 50/50 mix

[Cuda Cody]

It depends on what car I'm working on, but I like to get a mix of 70% anti-freeze and 30% distilled water.  Not because it cools better, because it doesn't.  I use stock radiators and have them cored with much better guts (and that cools them better) so I can run more protection with the 70% anti-freeze.  The 70 / 30 helps fight correction, lubricates the water pump and takes my boiling point up to the highest level.  But if I have a cooling system that is not working very well, I might have to run 50/50 or less.  Just means I have to change it more often then normal and the boiling point is not has high.   

[71GranCoupe]

I would go with 50/50. Anyone who has a boat, whether in salt or  fresh water knows that water will have an effect on bare metal=rust even with fresh water cooling. Not so much with anti-freeze. 

[mopar thunder]

Thanks for all the information. When I lived in PA I did use a 50% mixture with a 180 temp thermostat but now I am in Florida I will still use a 180 but use mostly distilled water. It did get to 26 overnight here a few nights so maybe I should go for a 30 degree %. This is all for the stock, iron headed original engine in the Charger. For my aluminum headed engine (when it is done  ) I will go with just water and Royal Purple since I go down the track with it.

[autoxcuda]

None.

I run Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler and Justice Brothers Radiator Protectant for added anti-rust and anti-electrolysis when running straight water. Both lubricant the water pump.

Been in my aluminum headed, aluminum radiator for 7 years.

Here's an real thorough comparision test of Wetter Wetter, DEI, Hyper-Lube, and Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler:

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives/viewall.html

"Justice Brothers' Radiator Cooler gave us the lowest temperature during our testing - 177 F - and provided the lowest average temperatures overall when mixed with water alone."


This picture was taken in 2016,  5 years after putting in the Champion (Chinese) radiator with my rebuilt motor.

[dodj]

50/50 mix and change up to a 191* t-stat. Your engine will wear faster at 180*. 
Like Cody said, the anti-freeze does more than prevent your coolant from freezing. Corrosion protection is important.

[Marc70challenger]

None.

I run Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler and Justice Brothers Radiator Protectant for added anti-rust and anti-electrolysis when running straight water. Both lubricant the water pump.

Been in my aluminum headed, aluminum radiator for 7 years.

Here's an real thorough comparision test of Wetter Wetter, DEI, Hyper-Lube, and Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler:

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives/viewall.html

"Justice Brothers' Radiator Cooler gave us the lowest temperature during our testing - 177 F - and provided the lowest average temperatures overall when mixed with water alone."


This picture was taken in 2016,  5 years after putting in the Champion (Chinese) radiator with my rebuilt motor.

That's impressive. 

I've always used Water Wetter with decent results.  I ran across RMI25 on another site with examples like yours.  I've already received it and am going to try it in our Drag Week car.

When I do the Spring maintenance I think I'll try your stuff in another car.

Thanks for info !

[autoxcuda]

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in your coolant system. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant.

Over 300mV and you have an electrolysis issue. That comes from:

• worn radiator fluid
• stray voltage in your electrical system making a path to the fluid (bad grounds)
• electricity built up as fluid passes over dissimilar metals

The picture shows my system at 76 mV (.076 volts)

[autoxcuda]

Cooling additives will raise the boiling point some. And it will change directly with mixing ratios.... From high school chemistry, ANY solution mixed with water will raise the boiling point and the freezing point.

In the 30's they used to put straight alcohol in automobile radiators to keep them from freezing. But the alcohol with evaporate and those systems were not pressurized or sealed.

Antifreeze at 50% ratio only increases the boiling point 11 degrees.

Your 15 lbs radiator cap increases the boiling point 45 degrees.

Most importantly, the cooling system uses pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant. Just like the boiling temperature of water is higher in a pressure cooker, the boiling temperature of coolant/water is higher if you pressurize the system. Most cars have a pressure limit of 14 to 15 pounds per square inch (psi). The radiator pressure cap raises the boiling point another 45 F (25 C) so the coolant can withstand the high temperatures. Your radiator cap does a FOUR TIMES more job at increasing your boiling point than antifreeze!

Remember: A good radiator additive does a lot more than just acting as a wetting agent like anti-corrosion, anti-cavitation, electrolysis resistance, anti acid, lubrication, SCA's (Supplemental Coolant Additives)  thremal conduction... They should remove heat better than antifreeze. Boiling in a pressurized system of water alone is 257 degrees.

The object is to remove heat before going into a boiling situation.

Boiling over is a result AFTER everything else went wrong.

[Marc70challenger]

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in you coolant system. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant.

Over 300mV and you have an electrolysis issue. That comes from:

• worn radiator fluid
• stay voltage in your electrical system making a path to the fluid (bad grounds)
• electricity built up as fluid passes over dissimilar metals

The picture shows my system at 76 mV (.076 volts)

May be dumb question but do you do that with motor running ?  Of course cold after start up?  Or just with it off and cold ?   Thx

[autoxcuda]

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in you coolant system. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant.

Over 300mV and you have an electrolysis issue. That comes from:

• worn radiator fluid
• stay voltage in your electrical system making a path to the fluid (bad grounds)
• electricity built up as fluid passes over dissimilar metals

The picture shows my system at 76 mV (.076 volts)

May be dumb question but do you do that with motor running ?  Of course cold after start up?  Or just with it off and cold ?   Thx

warm not running.

I've done it running and no real difference.

[Marc70challenger]

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in you coolant system. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant.

Over 300mV and you have an electrolysis issue. That comes from:

• worn radiator fluid
• stay voltage in your electrical system making a path to the fluid (bad grounds)
• electricity built up as fluid passes over dissimilar metals

The picture shows my system at 76 mV (.076 volts)

May be dumb question but do you do that with motor running ?  Of course cold after start up?  Or just with it off and cold ?   Thx

warm not running.

I've done it running and no real difference.

Roger.  Thanks !