Paint and sheen question for components

[Jocigar]

Many have suggested to get away from rattle cans.

I'm working on blasting and painting; seat tracks, seat frames, and pedals   

These are all black, so before I pick up a can of SEM or Rustoleum which I actually think is decent product,  what should I be using ?

A single stage paint?  are you guys also clearing these parts?  do you use a satin paint and gloss paint? or use additive.

For sheen correct me if I am wrong; factory paint on tracks looked semi gloss? the seat frames and springs looked high gloss? and I have no idea on pedals.

Thank you!

[headejm]

Here is what my research found. Sorry, doesn't include the seat tracks although semi-gloss is usually a safe bet on E-bodies. Not much gloss used and not much flat used. 

[JS29]

Tractor supply has an implement paint, use the hardener and let it set for a day or two. not as good as powder coat, but it's pretty durable. comes in satin black. I use SEM etch primer, also comes in  black.     

[Jocigar]

Thanks for the list & codes, paint recommendation and tips.     

I discovered tractor supply last week.. picked up some black diamond blasting media.   I'll check out their paint next time
and also see what local paint shop says about a satin black.

[Cuda Cody]

@Jocigar   The problem with Rattle Can paint in not the Rattle Cans, but the low quality paint they put in them.  There are very high quality paints in rattle cans if you know what to look for.  The high quality rattle can paints will be the special cans that allow for 2 part paint to be used in the rattle can.  They are called "2K" rattle cans.  Google search and you'll find lots of "2K Rattle Can Paint" options.  The cost is much higher, but you get paint that is about 100 times better.

Because the 2K paints use a special can that allows for a hardener to be used it's just like the paint that professional use in their paint guns, but without having to buy all the equipment and air filters to spray with a paint gun.  Also, pretty much all Automotive Paint suppliers can put any custom mix of paint in to the good high quality 2K rattle cans so you can pretty much paint any color you want.

With that said, if you plan to do several restorations it's best to get a good paint gun, air compressor, air filter system and air refrigerator.  Not cheap.  Also, you need to consider there's a lot of chemical used to clean up too.  That's why the 2K paint cans can be a good option for many small jobs.  Remember, once you activate the 2K paint can it's only good for about 24 hours so be ready to use all of it up.  And do not put good 2K paint over cheap single part primer!!!!  Get the 2K epoxy primer too. 

So that we're all understanding the correct use of terminology, here's what I mean when I use these words...


Single Part Paint = This is a SINGLE PART paint (or primer) with no hardener. It's what you find in your cheap rattle can paints like Rustoleum. (Low Quality)


Single Stage Paint = This is a TWO PART paint that has the color and clear mixed in with the hardener and sprayed all in 1 single stage. (High Quality)


2K Rattle Can Paint = This is "Single Stage paint" (has the color, clear and hardener all in one) put in to an easy to use rattle can. (High Quality)


Two Stage Paint = Sometimes call 2 part paint too, it's when you paint the color in 1 stage (or step) and then put a clear coat over it in the 2nd stage (or step). (Highest Quality)  The color does not have a hardener, but the clear does and that is what provides the protection. But not needed for most small interior parts.  This really should be used on exterior car body panels only.  Takes some practice to get good.

[JS29]

SEM makes a high quality etch primer in a rattle can, you use that on bare metal. 2K primer won't adhere to bare metal. SEM dose make high quality products. And it's real etch primer!   

[screamindriver]

They actually do make a 2k primer that adheres to bare metal.. It's called DTM 2k primer {direct to metal}...It helps eliminate the 3 step process..I've used various brands and it seems to hold up well...For parts that will see outdoor use I still use a 3 step process with the initial epoxy sealer though..

[JS29]

@screamindriver  If that is a PPG product you speak of, I had poor results with it. It was a lavender color.

[Jocigar]

Thanks Cody/all! 

2k rattle cans sound great except for the wasted leftovers... would need to line up enough parts.

If I used single stage on parts; is enamel or urethane more common $ or easier to use and clean.

JS29 is the implement paint a true two-part paint ? you got some nice results... I only see it in matte or gloss.

lastly, I have a few gallons of old DP50LF.  I need to buy new hardener and see if it still cures... do you guys have any experience with the shelf life of base epoxy ? 

[JS29]

@Jocigar  Mat is semi gloss, It is a straight enamel product. Yes with a hardener (catalyst) It makes it two part. the hardener will give it a little more gloss. 

[HP2]

I have seen a difference between matte an semi-gloss sin some brands, so verify before you spray.  Range of sheen would be in this order: flat, matte, semi-gloss, gloss.

[JS29]

That is were the hardener comes into play.

[headejm]

I have seen a difference between matte an semi-gloss sin some brands, so verify before you spray.  Range of sheen would be in this order: flat, matte, semi-gloss, gloss.

Don't forget Satin. Very close to semi-gloss. This is what I used for all of my semi-gloss components. Most paint companies have a "hot rod black" color.

[Cuda Cody]

The stuff that goes bad if the "hardeners" (catalysts).  With the PPG products, look for the red caps....  that will tell you if it has isocyanates in it and they start going bad once they are opened (exposed to air).  I would have to look up the shelve life on it, but it's not long.  The actual DP50LF primer should last for a long time on the shelve. 

Also, there's 2 different catalysts for DP Epoxy.  The DP402 is mix and ready to shoot right away.  It will dry "harder" and only has a pot life of about 8 hours (going from memory, look up the P-Sheet 196 to double check).  The DP401 catalyst has a 30 minute induction time (which means you mix it up and let it six for 30 minutes before you can use it.)  It has a pot life of about 3 days, which means you can mix it and use it over and over for up to 3 days.  The advantage is it will dry a little more "flexible" so it tends not to chips or be as brittle as the DP402.  I prefer the 401, but both are great.

lastly, I have a few gallons of old DP50LF.  I need to buy new hardener and see if it still cures... do you guys have any experience with the shelf life of base epoxy ?

[HP2]

I have seen a difference between matte an semi-gloss sin some brands, so verify before you spray.  Range of sheen would be in this order: flat, matte, semi-gloss, gloss.

Don't forget Satin. Very close to semi-gloss. This is what I used for all of my semi-gloss components. Most paint companies have a "hot rod black" color.

I forgot satin. it would be in the middle of those