Rear window install

[Jsand73440]

What do you all use for installing your rear window, the polyurethane from a tube or the window ribbon?

[Claudia]

I used the 3M brand glass adhesive from a tube . . . no leaks or issues on my end.

[Challenger in NC]

I used the 3M brand glass adhesive from a tube . . . no leaks or issues on my end.

What did you do to get the correct glass spacing for your trim? The original type of ribbon usually adds 5/16" or 3/8" height off the frame, correct?

[Claudia]

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

[Challenger in NC]

Thanks.

[Mrbill426]

@Claudia , so you place the glass on the spacers then flood the channel with the adhesive?  I assume the adhesive stays put and does not "run"?

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

[Jsand73440]

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

So the glass is flush with the sheet metal body surrounding it?  I guess i was thinking of maybe using the ribbon strip material so i could get the right height.

[Dmod1974]

I used 3/8" butyl tape when I did mine with aftermarket OER brand glass.  It really depends on how thick your glass is.  It'll likely need 5/16" or 3/8" to get the height correct.  OEM glass tends to run thicker.

[Jsand73440]

I used 3/8" butyl tape when I did mine with aftermarket OER brand glass.  It really depends on how thick your glass is.  It'll likely need 5/16" or 3/8" to get the height correct.  OEM glass tends to run thicker.

My back glass is original. The local auto paint store had the butyl rope kit for $30. I thin this is probably the direction i will go.
The last time i used the 3M tube or similar product, and now as i look back, I remember having issues with the glass being not level in places.

[Claudia]

@Claudia , so you place the glass on the spacers then flood the channel with the adhesive?  I assume the adhesive stays put and does not "run"?

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

@Mrbill426 Spacers I made were just to test fit . . . once everything was installed during the dry fit, I measured the thickness needed (open air gap) between the metal window frame and the actual glass (from inside the car).  I then removed everything including the spacers and applied the needed thickness of sealer to the metal window channel, set the glass and once cured, installed the trim.  Adhesive was really thick and did not run at all.

[Claudia]

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

So the glass is flush with the sheet metal body surrounding it?  I guess i was thinking of maybe using the ribbon strip material so i could get the right height.

@Jsand73440 No, glass is inset from being flush with the outer sheet metal which allows for the rear window trim to be installed and once everything is installed, trim should sit flush with the outer sheet metal. 

I opted to not use the ribbon strip as when I dry fit everything initially, my gap was not perfectly consistent all the way around the glass so having the flexibility to lay down a thicker bead in different areas worked out best for me as I was trying to get my trim to sit flush all the way around with the outer sheet metal as well as sitting flush on the the glass itself.

[Jsand73440]

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

So the glass is flush with the sheet metal body surrounding it?  I guess i was thinking of maybe using the ribbon strip material so i could get the right height.

What do you do with the open areas on the bottom side of glass that may collect water under the trim? Do you fill in with more of the adhesive?
@Jsand73440 No, glass is inset from being flush with the outer sheet metal which allows for the rear window trim to be installed and once everything is installed, trim should sit flush with the outer sheet metal. 

I opted to not use the ribbon strip as when I dry fit everything initially, my gap was not perfectly consistent all the way around the glass so having the flexibility to lay down a thicker bead in different areas worked out best for me as I was trying to get my trim to sit flush all the way around with the outer sheet metal as well as sitting flush on the the glass itself.

[Claudia]

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

So the glass is flush with the sheet metal body surrounding it?  I guess i was thinking of maybe using the ribbon strip material so i could get the right height.

What do you do with the open areas on the bottom side of glass that may collect water under the trim? Do you fill in with more of the adhesive?
@Jsand73440 No, glass is inset from being flush with the outer sheet metal which allows for the rear window trim to be installed and once everything is installed, trim should sit flush with the outer sheet metal. 

I opted to not use the ribbon strip as when I dry fit everything initially, my gap was not perfectly consistent all the way around the glass so having the flexibility to lay down a thicker bead in different areas worked out best for me as I was trying to get my trim to sit flush all the way around with the outer sheet metal as well as sitting flush on the the glass itself.

No, I did not fill in that area.  It appeared to me that using either method would result in some open areas.  My car had two metal "props" or tabs at the bottom of the window frame opening that helped to set the glass vertically.  Also, my trim clips are screwed into the sheet metal window frame so there would be an open air gap all the way around my rear glass.  My car doesn't normally get driven in the rain so I wasn't worried about water collecting.  However, I do drive my car so I have been caught in the rain once or twice so far . . . a leaf blower or air hose works wonders for cleaning out collected water!

[Mrbill426]

Thanks for clearing that up; I didn't realize the sealer was that thick and stayed in place without running or sagging.

I just made spacers out of some rubber that I had laying around to place the glass . . . I test fit the glass and trim to ensure the correct height of the glass so that the trim is flush once they were both installed.

[/quote]

@Mrbill426 Spacers I made were just to test fit . . . once everything was installed during the dry fit, I measured the thickness needed (open air gap) between the metal window frame and the actual glass (from inside the car).  I then removed everything including the spacers and applied the needed thickness of sealer to the metal window channel, set the glass and once cured, installed the trim.  Adhesive was really thick and did not run at all.
[/quote]

[Mrbill426]

My upper molding clips are held in by pins in the sheet metal but I have to drill holes in the replacement lower filler panel.  I your case did the top edges of your molding clips end up flush with the sheet metal surfaces... below... above?

No, I did not fill in that area.  It appeared to me that using either method would result in some open areas.  My car had two metal "props" or tabs at the bottom of the window frame opening that helped to set the glass vertically.  Also, my trim clips are screwed into the sheet metal window frame so there would be an open air gap all the way around my rear glass.  My car doesn't normally get driven in the rain so I wasn't worried about water collecting.  However, I do drive my car so I have been caught in the rain once or twice so far . . . a leaf blower or air hose works wonders for cleaning out collected water!