Rear window install

[Claudia]

My upper molding clips are held in by pins in the sheet metal but I have to drill holes in the replacement lower filler panel.  I your case did the top edges of your molding clips end up flush with the sheet metal surfaces... below... above?

No, I did not fill in that area.  It appeared to me that using either method would result in some open areas.  My car had two metal "props" or tabs at the bottom of the window frame opening that helped to set the glass vertically.  Also, my trim clips are screwed into the sheet metal window frame so there would be an open air gap all the way around my rear glass.  My car doesn't normally get driven in the rain so I wasn't worried about water collecting.  However, I do drive my car so I have been caught in the rain once or twice so far . . . a leaf blower or air hose works wonders for cleaning out collected water!

Yeah, if I recall correctly (it was some time ago now), my upper front windshield trim pieces attached with the pins . . . I believe that the top edge of my rear window trim clips sat just below flush of the sheet metal.

[Jsand73440]

Thanks for the good ideas.

[Mrbill426]

@Claudia, thanks.

My upper molding clips are held in by pins in the sheet metal but I have to drill holes in the replacement lower filler panel.  I your case did the top edges of your molding clips end up flush with the sheet metal surfaces... below... above?

No, I did not fill in that area.  It appeared to me that using either method would result in some open areas.  My car had two metal "props" or tabs at the bottom of the window frame opening that helped to set the glass vertically.  Also, my trim clips are screwed into the sheet metal window frame so there would be an open air gap all the way around my rear glass.  My car doesn't normally get driven in the rain so I wasn't worried about water collecting.  However, I do drive my car so I have been caught in the rain once or twice so far . . . a leaf blower or air hose works wonders for cleaning out collected water!

Yeah, if I recall correctly (it was some time ago now), my upper front windshield trim pieces attached with the pins . . . I believe that the top edge of my rear window trim clips sat just below flush of the sheet metal.

[Katfish]

 If worried about water, what about runnimg a bead of silicon before putting the trim on?
Well after the window is set and sealer is dry.

[YellowThumper]

Good advice given by @Mrbill426
I have installed windows with and without the Butyl strip.
Definitely prefer without.
My experience with it is you end up fighting the variances between body and glass profiles. Eventually reaching a compromise between them. In my case, trim was not proper levels.
Test fit with noted spacers to find best levels. Lay necessary bead on glass. I also recommend leaving small pieces in lower channel to support glass from sliding downward along with a nesting edge to retain exacting height during cure. I also add a couple thickness spacers at the top to prevent over settling. Top ones just taped in place on glass so it barely overlaps onto the seating bed. These are then removed after only a short time once ot has setup slightly.

[Mrbill426]

@YellowThumper  I honestly did not realize that the caulking gun applied adhesive was such that the glass would sit on top of it without it "squeezing" out.  Sounds like you can be more precise with it than the butyl in setting the glass' depth into the opening so that the reveal moldings fit properly.  Right?   

Good advice given by @Mrbill426
I have installed windows with and without the Butyl strip.
Definitely prefer without.
My experience with it is you end up fighting the variances between body and glass profiles. Eventually reaching a compromise between them. In my case, trim was not proper levels.
Test fit with noted spacers to find best levels. Lay necessary bead on glass. I also recommend leaving small pieces in lower channel to support glass from sliding downward along with a nesting edge to retain exacting height during cure. I also add a couple thickness spacers at the top to prevent over settling. Top ones just taped in place on glass so it barely overlaps onto the seating bed. These are then removed after only a short time once ot has setup slightly.

[YellowThumper]

@YellowThumper  I honestly did not realize that the caulking gun applied adhesive was such that the glass would sit on top of it without it "squeezing" out.  Sounds like you can me more precise with it than the butyl in setting the glass' depth into the opening so that the reveal moldings fit properly.  Right?   

Good advice given by @Mrbill426
I have installed windows with and without the Butyl strip.
Definitely prefer without.
My experience with it is you end up fighting the variances between body and glass profiles. Eventually reaching a compromise between them. In my case, trim was not proper levels.
Test fit with noted spacers to find best levels. Lay necessary bead on glass. I also recommend leaving small pieces in lower channel to support glass from sliding downward along with a nesting edge to retain exacting height during cure. I also add a couple thickness spacers at the top to prevent over settling. Top ones just taped in place on glass so it barely overlaps onto the seating bed. These are then removed after only a short time once ot has setup slightly.

My experience is yes.
Having owned my Challenger for 40 years now, I have removed and reinstalled it twice.
First time using the Butyl tape. 3/8 thick not knowing it should have been 5/16. I struggled to get it down enough to fit trim properly. This was when I added window tint.
At same time discovered a small rust hole that I poorly patched.
Second time (not able to source the 5/16) I used the tube stuff. Did use spacers on bottom to position it centrally in hole. But unfortunately I was too aggressive in pressing it into place. As it currently resides, the window is slightly too low.
The 3rd time coming up in a year or so, I will be following the advice I just commented with.
Spacers that will insure it remains exactly where I want it on all levels.