HELP !!! I need help please

[dodj]

..it can't be that hard to figure out.

It can with me giving you wrong info about the yellow wire....
Follow what dmod said and you will be golden.

[Dmod1974]

Seriously, you're overcomplicating this.  Just hook up the wires the way I said and you're fine.  These are very basic circuits.

Let's say I'm wrong - at best the PCM and starter relays won't turn on.  You're not going to fry anything!  Again, I had to wire MY car this way or it will never stay running.

That blue wire does branch off somewhere and send power to the gauges through the fuse block.  I just looked at the schematic again.  Don't ask me where it splices but I'd have to assume before the bulkhead since it wouldn't make sense to run the circuit through there twice.


As long as you have a way of getting key switched power to them you're fine.

[Ek2aar]

Dmod is correct,  I was mistaken. I was thinking the yellow nuetral  safety wire for the starter relay and not the ignition switch. My apologies

If you are still questioning it, just do a continuity test from the red wire that powers the ignition switch to the other wires  and see what wires are
On with crank and ignition on etc..

[anlauto]

Dmod is correct,  I was mistaken. I was thinking the yellow wire for the starter relay and not the switch. My apologies

The yellow wire from the ignition switch goes directly to the starter relay via the bulkhead and headlight harness.

[Ek2aar]

Yes, that is the correct wire,  for some reason in was thinking the yellow nuetral safety for an automatic.  But that doesn't run through the bulkhead.

[anlauto]

Yes, that is the correct wire,  for some reason in was thinking the yellow nuetral safety for an automatic.  But that doesn't run through the bulkhead.

That would be a brown wire with a yellow tracer coming from the automatic transmission to the starter relay.

[MoparDave]

I'm sure hundreds of people have installed these engines using the crate set-up from Chrysler...it can't be that hard to figure out.

@MoparDave  Dave you guys have done these conversions, any input on my wiring question ?

@Blake@diyhemi.com  Any thoughts ?

Alan. we have Not physically done them. But we have some plenty. @303 Mopar  is familiar for sure.

[anlauto]

I've reached out to several people, nobody wants to give me definitive answer 

[Blake@diyhemi.com]

Can I help?

I've been out of pocket trying to develop new products to market for these swaps.

What's up fellas?!

[anlauto]

YES, please @Blake@diyhemi.com .... scroll up to reply #24 in this thread and let me know if you agree with the wiring question.

[Blake@diyhemi.com]

YES, please @Blake@diyhemi.com .... scroll up to reply #24 in this thread and let me know if you agree with the wiring question.

Yep, easy.

Typically I use both ballast wires tied together to provide 12V key on. In your case, with the ballast resistor wiring removed from the engine compartment, you take the same two wires, but from the column connector and join them as you said. Works like a charm.

[anlauto]

Thank you for your input Blake 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

That blue wire does branch off somewhere and send power to the gauges through the fuse block.

One detail here is incorrect, the keyed power at the fuse box is not sourced from the from the Ign1 (blue) ignition switch. The black (accessory) ignition switch lead powers all key-on accessories separate from Ign1.
  Other than this one statement, the info posted and summarized in post #24 is correct.

[70 Top Banana]

Hmmm, thinking