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oem Alternator / bypass / regulator

Started by Racer57, March 12, 2020, 11:24:13 AM

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Racer57

Stock style alternator. If I run a wire from it to the starter relay, I assume I need to disconnect the black wire at the alternator otherwise I'm defeating the purpose.  But if I do that, I don't have a voltage regulator ? If thats true, what do I do ?

Give me some nuts/bolts and I can do wonders. But this electrical crap.......... :pullinghair:

JS29

Quote from: Racer57 on March 12, 2020, 11:24:13 AM
Stock style alternator. If I run a wire from it to the starter relay, I assume I need to disconnect the black wire at the alternator otherwise I'm defeating the purpose.  But if I do that, I don't have a voltage regulator ? If thats true, what do I do ?

Give me some nuts/bolts and I can do wonders. But this electrical crap.......... :pullinghair: 
:console:    :popcorn:

Rich G.



dodj

You can run a wire from the alt to the starter relay battery stud to create a bypass for charging the battery if that is what you are thinking. And you leave the existing black wire where it is.
It would be the bare minimum to do to reduce B/H load.

You are not defeating the purpose by leaving the black wire where it is because electricity likes to follow the line of least resistance, in this case it will be the bypass wire to the starter solenoid battery stud.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Racer57

Quote from: dodj on March 12, 2020, 05:25:34 PM
You can run a wire from the alt to the starter relay battery stud to create a bypass for charging the battery if that is what you are thinking. And you leave the existing black wire where it is.
It would be the bare minimum to do to reduce B/H load.

You are not defeating the purpose by leaving the black wire where it is because electricity likes to follow the line of least resistance, in this case it will be the bypass wire to the starter solenoid battery stud.
Since it goes the to line of least resistance, then does volt regulator still function properly and my volt gauge will read 13.5+/-  at highway speeds ?    I'm basically piecing together info I've read here and from friends. So if I seem confused, excuse me.    LOL
Thanks for the help.

dodj

Quote from: Racer57 on March 12, 2020, 06:55:51 PM
Since it goes the to line of least resistance, then does volt regulator still function properly and my volt gauge will read 13.5+/-  at highway speeds ? 
Yes.

Your volt meter will read the output of the alt minus the small voltage drops that can occur over poor/corroded connections (ie bulkhead connector). So if your connections are good and relatively resistance free, the voltmeter will read about 14.2 - 14.4 volts.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Scooter

I did the bypass line and left the black wire that goes to the ammeter in the dash connected. Also bypassed the ammeter by putting both wires on the same post. My thought is the load from the alternator should be somewhat split reducing the total amperage on both circuits. Everything on the old circuit should work normally.

My2c.


chargerdon

Look, the problem with the ammeter isn't the gauge itself...their pretty robust, it was the wiring putting all that load with 12 gauge wires thru the bulkhead connections that was the problem.   So, you could leave the ammeter connected, but, it wont be accurate anyways...so better to replace it with a voltmeter ( voltmeter needs ground and power, not in line power).   

With a 10 gauge wire to starter relay also in place your reducing the load.   10 gauge is enough for a stock 45 amp alternator especially if you leave the original wiring in.  With higher output alternator change that to at least 8 if not 6 gauge wire.   

Also, it depend on what LOAD you are running.   Do you have A/C ?  Power windows ?  Stock low output am radio, or have you put in a more powerful new stereo?   Radiator electric fan ?    etc

70 Challenger Lover

If you really want a nice system, replace the stock alternator with one from powermaster. I do this on all my cars and run a heavy gauge wire directly to the relay as instructed. The difference is amazing. They are internally regulated and produce high energy at idle. No dim headlights at idle and they can put out over 100 amps if you had a bunch of things drawing power. I just like that my battery is always perfect, even if the car sits for long periods.

Chryco Psycho

Occaisionally a Powermaster alternator will even last up to 2 weeks , there are far better products out there

Racer57

I did a search, but didn't find what I was looking for.  Is there a complete list of everything needed to convert to better than stock alternator including correct size pulley that fits and everything needed to mount to 383 ?


Chryco Psycho

Is there a rebuilder nearby , usually they can build them better for a whole lot less $$
Brad is using a different from stock alt but it works great

Racer57

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on March 25, 2020, 01:13:56 PM
Is there a rebuilder nearby , usually they can build them better for a whole lot less $$
Brad is using a different from stock alt but it works great
Rebuild and have its own regulator ?