Rallye Cluster Tach Removal question

[Wayne]

After getting my car up and running the tachometer isn't working unfortunately.  Any tips on removing the tach?  I just looked at the FSM and its seems pretty simple only 8 steps    .  How long of a job would say this is?  I have never taken an instrument cluster out.  Basically  thinking out loud here before i tackle it this week. 


I called Redline and they can completely rebuild it in a few days. 

thanks!

[anlauto]

Tach has to come out the front...You can remove the entire gauge cluster, or just the woodgrain and clear plastic lens....neither way is fun...

[MoparLeo]

If you want to cause the least amount of scratches to your interior and the most working room. Disconnect battery ( good practice anytime there is anything electrical involved or nearby.) Remove driver seat. Lower steering wheel. Put a towel on top of the steering column. Use proper fitting screw drivers, nut drivers etc... Now is the time to check and clean all connections. apply dielectric grease to electrical connections. Replace all bulbs. If your screws are not in excellent condition, get a screw kit, very inexpensive, really pops.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I second the 'drop the colum"   so much easier

[Racer57]

After you remove seats, pretend you still a teenager and crawl as much under the dash as possible and take lots and lots of pictures of the wires from all angles with your phone.  Then right down what color is going where.  They will make it a lot easier when reconnecting.

Dropping the steering wheel involves removing the two nuts under the dash and at least 2 of the 3 bolts at the firewall.

You will need to remove the dash light bar. Before putting it back, you might want to check into getting some LED bulbs to replace the stock ones. They will light up the dash way more than stock ones.

You might also need to remove the ashtray to get to the wire connections that supply the power for the dash lights.

Tape both sides of the split of the two sections of dash heavily where they meet. The woodgrain finish scratches easily.

The connections on back side of switch panel can usually be removed once it part way out. Usually.

After pulling mine out a couple times and having wires that were almost too short, I extended some of them so the next time I pull dash I have plenty of room to work with the next time.

When your ready to remove the clear plastic lens/cover, lay it on a thick towel and push the pins out. The towel prevents loosing them and less chance of scratching the lens. Even if you think your lens might look ok, Redline and polish it even better.

Putting the main section back in is easy, but getting the switch panel to fit will have you cussing trying to find just the right angle for it to pop back into place.

The screws on the bottom of the switch panel provide the ground for the panel. It would be a good idea to add a wire going from one of them to a bolt some whee under the dash for a better ground. 

Redline will check out your gauges and recalibrate if needed. If they suggest that some might need replace, do it. They can be trusted and you don't want to have to remove the dash again.

[Wayne]

Great, thanks for the tips!  I am getting motivated to try this now! 
I will look into the led's for the light bar once its all apart. 

Does the switch panel to the left of the 4 gauge cluster have to come out? 

[318Stroker]

Great, thanks for the tips!  I am getting motivated to try this now! 
I will look into the led's for the light bar once its all apart. 

Does the switch panel to the left of the 4 gauge cluster have to come out?

Yes, it has to come out before you can remove the main cluster.

[Wayne]

Great, thanks for the tips!  I am getting motivated to try this now! 
I will look into the led's for the light bar once its all apart. 

Does the switch panel to the left of the 4 gauge cluster have to come out?

Yes, it has to come out before you can remove the main cluster.

Maybe I misread the FSM.  I thought it said it had to be unbolted and could be left plugged in and just left to hang loose.  Step 3

[R/T's 4 R/P]

If you have the ability to have a spare tach, get that one working properly. 
Then when you have it all apart you can just remove and replace the tach and reassemble right away. I find this helps in keeping track of the pieces and process.

[318Stroker]

Great, thanks for the tips!  I am getting motivated to try this now! 
I will look into the led's for the light bar once its all apart. 

Does the switch panel to the left of the 4 gauge cluster have to come out?

Yes, it has to come out before you can remove the main cluster.

Maybe I misread the FSM.  I thought it said it had to be unbolted and could be left plugged in and just left to hang loose.  Step 3

That would work but it's going to kind of still be in the way, and subject to scratching while you work on the rest of the cluster.. Once it's loose and hanging, it's a lot easier to just unplug the switches and get it completely out of the way and set aside. Plugging the switches back in is self-expanatory, as the plug-ins are all different.

[headejm]

@Wayne My #1 E-body tip...tape both sides of the seam between the switch panel and the gauge panel. This will avoid scratches on the gauge panel caused by removing the switch panel. The switch panel is one of the more frustrating components to remove/install on an E-body. Ask me how I know. 

[318Stroker]

@Wayne My #1 E-body tip...tape both sides of the seam between the switch panel and the gauge panel. This will avoid scratches on the gauge panel caused by removing the switch panel. The switch panel is one of the more frustrating components to remove/install on an E-body. Ask me how I know. 

  Real good advice!!!  I use blue painters tape.

[JS29]

I use automotive grade making tape, I wont leave glue behind like drug store tape.   

[blown motor]

Totally agree on taping the facing edges of the switch cluster and gauge cluster. I use two layers of painters tape.

[Claudia]

  Lots of good advise thus far!  It is a fairly easy, self gratifying DIY project.    I did mine out of the car which would obviously be easier but still completely doable!