426 Hemi w/TTI headers in 'Cuda

[Topcat]

2.5" outlet manifolds work great.

So why the switch to headers?   

[Burdar]

The tip of the dip stick hits the lip at the bottom of the tube where the tube meets the threaded base at such an angle that the stick hangs up.

Here's the first thing that came to mind...

Can you put a slight bend in the end of the dipstick so the tip doesn't make contact?  Put a very little 45 degree bend right at the end and point the tip away from the contact point.(put the bend within 1/8" of the bottom)  With the bend, hopefully the angled section will hit the base and let it slide past.  You might have to heat up the end of the dipstick to get a small bend that close to the end.

[mrwfp]

Thanks!  I'll try the suggestions once the tube arrives.  I did not actually switch to headers.  My old 440 motor somehow lost a nut on a connecting rod causing the rod to shift and wrecking the motor.  The connecting rod broke, the cam was destroyed along with the cam shaft tunnel and the bottom of the block was beaten up so badly that it could not be repaired.  The motor itself had been rebuilt 5 years ago.  I have driven several cars in excess of 300,000 miles each and have never had a connecting rod lose a nut.  I have always wanted a hemi 'Cuda since I bought my first 'Cuda in 1973, so the Mopar gods were telling me this was the time to get one.  When I tried to find a hemi k member and manifolds, I kept running into people who had them listed on line for sale, but not for a clone.   When they asked if the car was an original hemi car and I said no, they refused to sell.  So I bought TinMan motor mounts and TTI headers.  I would have preferred manifolds and a real k member.  Schumacher was out of stock on their mounts and I went on their waiting list.  Never heard back.  I saw the TinMan mounts and compared them to pictures of the Schumachers, saw no difference and they were available.   

[Topcat]

Al Debevic in Wisconsin makes Hemi K Members.

Here is mine before it went to powder coating.

[Topcat]

Some pics and info:


Al Debevec's Custom Exhaust, Auto Fabrication, Complete Hemi K-frame & Mount Assemblies

715-267-7141


https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/al-debevec-k-member-mods.427818/

[mrwfp]

I really wish that I had known about Al Debevec and his business. I would have rather had a k-member than using the motor mounts.

[Topcat]

If you plan on running a Shaker hood, you might be in the same situation I was once in when trying Schumacher mounts.

The picture with the silver bubble is when it had Schumacher mounts.
The picture with the black bubble is with the Al Debevic modified K member.

[mrwfp]

I am running into all sorts of issues that I am trying to resolve.  I told Indy Cylinder Heads that I wanted a stock style intake manifold as I currently have a shaker and want to keep it.  While the intake seems to be of stock height, the spacing between the carburetors was about 3/16" different from the hemi shaker baseplate that I bought for Edelbrock carbs.  That is causing a problem in that the openings in the carbs do not line up with the openings in the baseplate.  I loosened up both carbs and was able to push them a little closer together but there is still about 1/8" difference between their spacing and the baseplate.  I could probably drill out the carb mounting holes a bit and squeeze them together a bit more but I really don't want to do that. The baseplate also does not clear the MSD distributor or the driver's side breather that Indy provided.  I found a low profile breather that will work.  I had to turn the #6 plug wire 180 degrees in the distributor cap to help reduce the height of that plug wire.  If I take off the distributor cap and breather, the shaker baseplate seems to be at the correct height when the whole shaker is put together. So it appears that the TinMan motor mounts did not raise the motor significantly. However, because of the 1/8" difference between the carbs, the baseplate rocks back and forth and there are gaps between the carb openings and the baseplate openings.  I bought a set of 1/2" tall aluminum spacers that allow the baseplate to clear both the distributor and Indy breather.  There is less distance between the shaker and hood, similar but a bit more space than yours but it is probably acceptable.  But the gaps are still there. I will probably glue rubber weather stripping to the outsides of the aluminum spacers to help seal the gaps and stabilize the baseplate.  I always wanted a hemi 'Cuda but every day I run into something else and start to think that I just should have had another 440 motor built.  It would have been far less expensive and a lot less work and frustration.  This requires new exhaust, new shaker emblems, hemi hockey stripes, new shaker baseplate, new air filter lid, different dip stick, different flywheel. By the time this is finished, I'll be in it for about $24,000.  I could have had a 440 built for around $6000 and reused everything else except the motor.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

If you plan on running a Shaker hood, you might be in the same situation I was once in when trying Schumacher mounts.

The picture with the silver bubble is when it had Schumacher mounts.
The picture with the black bubble is with the Al Debevic modified K member.

Yep... my bubble sits high too

mrwfp, I will say HEMI is not for the faint of wallet. And once your in.... your in! It gets to a point of no return, unless you hit the lottery

[Topcat]

I am running into all sorts of issues that I am trying to resolve.

I always wanted a hemi 'Cuda but every day I run into something else and start to think that I just should have had another 440 motor built. 

It would have been far less expensive and a lot less work and frustration. 

This requires new exhaust, new shaker emblems, hemi hockey stripes, new shaker baseplate, new air filter lid, different dip stick, different flywheel. By the time this is finished, I'll be in it for about $24,000.

I could have had a 440 built for around $6000 and reused everything else except the motor.

Welcome to the world of Hemi. 

I totally feel your pain. Been there before.
So many hours of frustration. Even after what I thought was fact finding thoroughly.

[Flatdad]

2.5" outlet manifolds work great.

So why the switch to headers?   

I wanted the car to be faster.