440 oil leak front passenger side

[Shane Kelley]

I'm not a fan of double gasketting. I feel that two gaskets combined with overtorqueing fasteners just leads to warped parts. I would take a short flat edge to the valve cover sealing surfaces and see how far from flat they are. If they can be hammer and dolleyed flat again I would do that and grind them so they can fit flush.

On my 340's I run the Mopar Performance covers. I had to grind the lip off the edge where it was hitting the intake. Glued a thick composite type material gasket to the valve cover.

I have installed those Stealth heads with a Edlebrock Performer Rpm intake and stamped reproduction chrome valve covers and didn't have any issues or leaks.

[dave73]

So resurfacing this, fixed my valve cover oil leak but I still have something leaking. Used some uv dye and the balancer is coated in oil, oil on lower passenger side of the timing cover, oil pooled on the passemgwe side and front of the k frame. Can't tell where it's coming from but looks like the balancer is slinging it around and making it hard to trace.

So far I've confirmed the following are not the cause: valve cover gaskets, fuel pump bolts, fuel pump push rod plug, oil filter, pvc seems to be working fine, intake gasket. Lowest bolt on the Timing cover on the passenger side was able to be tigjtened a quarter turn, all others were good. Not sure if that would cause a decent leak?

About to remove be alternator, power steering pump and water pump assembly to get a better look. Any other ideas before I do that?

[Shane Kelley]

I will just throw this out there. Front timing cover crank seal or possibly a groove worn into balancer. Oil level correct? (to much oil)

[RUNCHARGER]

I would bet what Shane said as well.

[dave73]

Hmmm I have an aftermarket hemi pan, put in 6 quarts then 1/2 a quart of zinc break in additive. When I look at the dipstick it is reading over the full mark. Possible that 1/2 quart over is doing this? I'm ready to drain the oil anyways for its first change. From what I've read the hemi pan holds 6 quarts including the filter, is that right? I'm using a shorty wix oil filter also, not sure if that matters?

[Shane Kelley]

While you wouldn't think that small amount over full would do anything and it may not. But you need to start there and see what happens. Usually over full causes issue overloading the rear main under acceleration. But you need to eliminate that possibility first.

[dave73]

Thanks Shane, going to start with lowering the oil level. Looking through the parts list from the engine builder, he used a melling high volume pump. Oil pressure seems to hang around 75-80 at first startup and when driving. Drops a little when you let off the gas, is that too high? Should I be running a different pump? It's a 512 stroker

[RUNCHARGER]

That is a bit high but it may drop when the engine has a few more miles on it. Is that with a factory gauge?

[dave73]

Speedhut gauge with electronic sending unit

[Shane Kelley]

That oil pressure sounds exactly right for a fresh motor. That's where my motors usually run until they warm up.

[dave73]

So I haven't done much here yet but I think I found my issue and I feel like an idiot, but I guess that's how you learn right? Saw another slight leak onto the starter. Almost positive that is being caused by the driver side valve cover gasket; when I pulled the cover, the moroso rubber gaskets had a slit in them, probably from the steel valve cover lip that didn't fit over the head.

In regards to the "oil" on the passenger side front of the engine, it's not oil, it's coolant. I put UV dye in the oil to trace the leaks in the beginning and that helped a ton in finding out how horrible my old valve covers were sealing. Apparently, the coolant glows under a black light straight out of the bottle without any additives. Stupid me for now reaching down and touching the fluid, I just saw the same neon green and assumed it was more of the oil leaks I was chasing.

I had issues a few months back with my water pump leaking so it may be more of that or it may be the housing itself. I'll be pulling that off to inspect and hopefully fix the leaks once and for all. I'll keep you guys updated.

[303 Mopar]

I had issues a few months back with my water pump leaking so it may be more of that or it may be the housing itself. I'll be pulling that off to inspect and hopefully fix the leaks once and for all. I'll keep you guys updated.

A lot of times the coolant leak is from the thermostat housing, so I would start at the top of the motor and work your way down.

[dave73]

I had issues a few months back with my water pump leaking so it may be more of that or it may be the housing itself. I'll be pulling that off to inspect and hopefully fix the leaks once and for all. I'll keep you guys updated.

A lot of times the coolant leak is from the thermostat housing, so I would start at the top of the motor and work your way down.

Already inspected that heavily. Also inspected as much as I can see from the top side and there are no traces of leaks.

[RUNCHARGER]

Keep on it. It sounds like you are getting it figured out. Leaks drive me crazy.

[Chryco Psycho]

That oil pressure sounds exactly right for a fresh motor. That's where my motors usually run until they warm up.

I agree