70 AAR Cuda not running right, little insight please

[CamasCuda]

Folks,
getting close to the finish line, if there ever is such a thing with car restoration. rebuilt 340 sixpack runs fine after warming up in the garage.   But noticed, if its been a week since starting it up the fuel filter is void of fuel AND there's plenty of cranking before she fills and the engine fires off.  I've driven around the block twice and then the last weekend over for an alignment.  while driving, one must "flutter" the gas petal to keep it running, it wants to die.  Before I take her to Tom's Performance for a carb(s) adjustment, thought I'd send out a inquiry about the fuel filter and possible fuel problems.   its been 2 1/2 years of tear down and then back together again, ... maybe 3!  I did drain the carbs before storing them away.  But, before the restoration it didn't have this problem.   maybe there's a leak / tear in diaphragm ...   thoughts?

my plan was to replace fuel pump, replace fuel hose at both ends, make sure the steel line is unrestricted, the tanks pick up and sender are new.
I did set the timing at 12.

[HP_Cuda]

Was this the ride that was partially done at GYC???

[1 Wild R/T]

Track down fuel refined/blended in the 70's....  Todays fuel is crap...... The fuel is gone from the filter & fuel bowls because it boiled away when the engine temp got above 150 degrees....  Current gasoline is blended with the intent being that it will be used in a fuel injected car & it will be kept under pressure when ever it's near the hot engine....

Good Luck... Can it be made better? Sure... Can it be made to work like it did when new?  Sorry no....

[Cuda Cody]

Two different issues you are facing.  The drive-ability is a carb tuning issue.  Pretty easy to get that dialed in with some jets and small adjustments.

The carb not holding fuel over a long period is a different issue.  The fuel is either evaporating or going somewhere... maybe back to the tank?  Most likely it's evaporating.  I have the same problem with some of my cars.  They start fine if they are ran within a couple days, but then the fuel starts to go away over a few weeks.  I just have a squirt bottle and add fuel to the carb if it's sat a long time.  If you find a solution to the problem I would love to know what it is.   

[CamasCuda]

Hey,  no.   Tom, checked out the engine, i've done all the mechancial, etc.   Body & Paint at Rogers, but for the Organizol, special thanks for that work done by secret agent man.

[CamasCuda]

Thanks,  I'll do a drive by when she's done or at least when she is reliable.   thinking maybe i should pop the carb tops to see if the floats or float is stuck.   My, thinking is - she acts like is floating out... while driving slow or at a stop light.   reasoning, pedal to metal to get her to restart.    should have replaced the brake booster in the tear down, but tried to save money and just did minor reworking.   Brakes are crap...feels like they bottom out.  So this weekend 1-replace fuel pump, 2- replace all fuel hoses and double check steel fuel line is clear, 3 - figure out why the driving lights are coming on (GRN wire running thru firewall,  4- why the tach doesn't work, etc.

OK, any thoughts on what these are for (see picture)?

Yep, thanksgivings coming up.... another run of Bob special stuffing will be delivered!

[Chryco Psycho]

what have you done as far as tuning it , did you adjust the float levels etc I beileve the Holley tuning guide I wrote out is posted here work through it as if it s a 4 bbl with 4 secondary venturiies , it really tunes the same as a 4 bbl

[CamasCuda]

thanks, hadn't done anything yet.  she ran fine before the tear done, maybe be a little naive (wishful)thinking that it was a bolt on and go!  after double checking the fuel supply, I'll get into the next steps.  thanks again.

[Chryco Psycho]

When adjusted correctly they run well & hold their tune just fine , time to start checking all of the settings in order

[HR738]

The yellow bracket you asked about in your pic is one of the frame tie downs. Used for transport when new. They should be bare metal, usually with some undercoat from the wheel wells on them.

[RUNCHARGER]

Just a note if you adjust the floats. Those float screw threads in the bowls are delicate, be careful when turning the adjusters and locking them down.

[Chryco Psycho]

Good Point
The screw is the lock & the nut is the adjuster , I loosen it with the nut then loosen the screw , you can adjust the level turning the nut with your fingers & snug the screw

[CamasCuda]

Ok, thanks again for all your help.   fuel problem has been eliminated!    I replaced all the rubber hoses, the one closest to the tank, was likely the 'little devil' causing my draining.  after replacing I tested it for leaks and found small cracks sounding the hose clamp location. 

No more drained fuel filter, car fires right up after being down for 2 weeks.  I also replaced the fuel pump. 

Still cant get the tach to work.  did everything, including replacing the bent clip and going with a jumper direct eye connection.  replaced the isolation washers, just about everything.  So, either is grounding out or just plain dead.    Tried of being upside down, so maybe this winter work, when its pissing down rain outside.

good news, I adjusted the headlight aim last night! yea!  haven't fully vetted the rough running, but did find a slip vacuum hose 'daisy chained' between the carbs.  tomorrow, is another test drive day.   thanks again for your help.

Oh, fired up the 8track player,  bought some 8 tracks on ebay.  AC/DC and Led baby....  its not a beach boy car!

[Spikedog08]

Wow looks like an amazing car!  Hope you get it figured out!   

[Chryco Psycho]

The Tachs were never reliable 70 electronics are nothing like todays