BAD ENGINE REBUILDING !!!

[THE ZUKE]

I ask what prompted you to tear into it? Was there an issue?

At the base the crankcase was depressed

A mechanic probably lifted the engine with a jack

It was with the housing removed that we saw the work on the crankshaft

[THE ZUKE]

Is there any reason to believe there is anything wrong with the engine , I don't see anything alarming in there.

Maybe you have 6 pack rods in there & weight was added to keep it internally balanced 

Can't really tell what rods are in there from the pics provided, but heavier rods being used was what I was thinking too that would have requiree that much material to be added to the crank ...

I do not know what model of rods are mounted.

[THE ZUKE]

when I built my engine I used 6 pack rods , nothing else was affordable then , they weighed a ton , but we ground all of the excess weight / lump off of the rod cap to reduce the weight as much as possible  & still had to add weight to the crank .

I understand but I do not know which model rod is installed.
As soon as I could, I will take pictures of the split part on the crankshaft.
I haven't seen this problem yet, it's my local mechanic (not the V8 specialist) who warned me.
I will take pictures to this problem and after share them on this topic.

[THE ZUKE]

Wow! That's nasty!

 

[1 Wild R/T]

440 source stuff is great , I have built a lot of the 440/512 engines using 440 source kits
I agree with Sheldon , adding mallory like that is normal just not sur why they had to add so much weight to balance it , kind of weird as it has a forged steel crank which is already heavier than the cast crank

Thank you Chryco Psycho for the info about 440 SOURCE and their stroker kit.

I suspected you had assembled several stroker engines.

I read everything about the 440 stroker SOURCE and I was pretty sure the material was good quality.

How do the 440/500 or 440/512 engines react in time?

I also find very strange welding around the crankshaft. I do not really understand how it can be balanced. And that finally everything is coherent.

In France, rather than adding a lot of material, we remove by making small holes

Drilling holes means the piston/rod assembly is lighter than the counterweight on the crankshaft... If the piston/rod is heavier you need to add weight.... Normally not the case on a forged crank Mopar.. But if using heavy Sixpack Rods & a stock replacement type piston without the sixpack damper that extra weight has to come from somewhere....

Honestly it's probably fine I've seen much uglier jobs of adding mallory metal..  I'd run it.... Why throw unnecessary money at it?

It would have been better to use lighter pistons & rods so you can drill holes to balance... But it's done so just go with it...

[THE ZUKE]

440 source stuff is great , I have built a lot of the 440/512 engines using 440 source kits
I agree with Sheldon , adding mallory like that is normal just not sur why they had to add so much weight to balance it , kind of weird as it has a forged steel crank which is already heavier than the cast crank

Thank you Chryco Psycho for the info about 440 SOURCE and their stroker kit.

I suspected you had assembled several stroker engines.

I read everything about the 440 stroker SOURCE and I was pretty sure the material was good quality.

How do the 440/500 or 440/512 engines react in time?

I also find very strange welding around the crankshaft. I do not really understand how it can be balanced. And that finally everything is coherent.

In France, rather than adding a lot of material, we remove by making small holes

Drilling holes means the piston/rod assembly is lighter than the counterweight on the crankshaft... If the piston/rod is heavier you need to add weight.... Normally not the case on a forged crank Mopar.. But if using heavy Sixpack Rods & a stock replacement type piston without the sixpack damper that extra weight has to come from somewhere....

Honestly it's probably fine I've seen much uglier jobs of adding mallory metal..  I'd run it.... Why throw unnecessary money at it?

It would have been better to use lighter pistons & rods so you can drill holes to balance... But it's done so just go with it...

Thank you for your analysis and advices. 

[THE ZUKE]

This morning, I spoke with my local mechanic.
I explained to him that his employee had seen a crack on the crankshaft.
He replied that it was not a crack but welding as in many places on the crankshaft. 
I decided that I was going to listen to you by not dismantling the engine to control it.
You all gathered have much more experience than I will never have.
I found a label on the flywheel, it seems that the engine was rebuilt after April 2015.
So I deduce that if he had broken, he would have already broken.
Wait and see ...

Thanks again for your explanations and advice.

[Chryco Psycho]

 

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: If it was my car I would repair the oil leaks and run it. You are correct that it has a few miles on it and if something was majorly wrong it would have made itself known by now. If we are giving you bad advice it will come out as a minor issue, I believe. Certainly not worth rebuilding the whole engine at this time.

[THE ZUKE]

Yes: If it was my car I would repair the oil leaks and run it. You are correct that it has a few miles on it and if something was majorly wrong it would have made itself known by now. If we are giving you bad advice it will come out as a minor issue, I believe. Certainly not worth rebuilding the whole engine at this time.

I agree and hope too 

Now, wait and see...

Pistons pictures (New I'm sure  ).

[Chryco Psycho]

Look new 

[THE ZUKE]

Look new 

I think too. 

[soundcontrol]

I understand your point of view now it is not as easy in France to find a block naked (standart coast) and it is very expensive to put together a complete block.

For us, transportation and taxes are very expensive. Because of this the basic price is almost doubled.

I do dragster but I would like to win horses without weakening the engine. That's why if I have to rebuild the engine I thought about the stroker kit.

@THE ZUKE, you could try looking for parts in Sweden, we have thousands and thousands of Mopars here, lots of parts and dealers. Shipping would be way less, and no custom fee's or taxes since wer'e EU.

[THE ZUKE]

I understand your point of view now it is not as easy in France to find a block naked (standart coast) and it is very expensive to put together a complete block.

For us, transportation and taxes are very expensive. Because of this the basic price is almost doubled.

I do dragster but I would like to win horses without weakening the engine. That's why if I have to rebuild the engine I thought about the stroker kit.

@THE ZUKE, you could try looking for parts in Sweden, we have thousands and thousands of Mopars here, lots of parts and dealers. Shipping would be way less, and no custom fee's or taxes since wer'e EU.

Thanks for the information, what would be the dealer with the most choices in Sweden?

I am going to buy a sway rear bar hotchkis and adjustable shocks hotchkis.

[ledphoot]

If she runs good, isn't making noise, has good compression, isn't using oil, I'd run her and build her replacement while I drive the car.