Building a 318 vs 340

[YellowThumper]

I agree with @Shane Kelley if it is the full 69 package.
Now I comes down to $$$. Paying for the "rights" to say it is a 340. Or paying same overall $$$ for proper internals on a low cost Magnum roller lifter 360 that could out perform the 340.

[Matt13]

I thought we went over this in another thread
Bang for the $$ build a 360 , best would be 87-92 , stroke it to 408
Best value & result for the $$ spent & 360s are almost free !!

We did. I'm a slow learner though.  I now have 2 - 340's available to me; either one $1,500. Might be some wiggle room though on either of them.

If that 340 in the 69 Dart is a 69 340 I would go that one. It will have big valves, good compression and all the goodies.

Somebody mentioned that 340's have thin cylinder walls and could have issues being bored. While I don't want to get into any debates I can say from personal experiences that I have had several 340's bored .060 over with zero issues. I actually have a fresh machined that I will be doing a stroker build. 

Another point no one has made is stand point of having a 340 in your car. Some say that doesn't matter but for me it does. What's under hood? 318? 360? or 340! That's just my personal opinion. There would be some value added as well. IMO

That thought did cross my mind. BUT, I have never seen as many purists in all my years of collecting as I have seen collecting Mopars. The car was originally a 318, so having a non-original 340 might increase the cool factor, but the value? Maybe.

[Shane Kelley]

Think of it this way. Your out shopping for a 71 Barracuda and a guy has 2 identical 318 Barracuda's. But one has had the 318 swapped out for a nice 340 and the other still has it's original 2 barrel 318 in it.  To most car guys like myself a matching number 318 means nothing to me. I would pay more for the one with the 340 in it. Question is. Would you?

[7212Mopar]

Matt 13, I assume you will pick one of the two 340s to buy. Any details you like to share. Having and original bore 340 block as a spare for rainy days might not be a bad idea. They are not readily available now a days.

A 71 Cuda even with a  318 is still a highly sought after car. My less desirable 73 Challenger originally had a 318 and one of the previous owner swapped in a 340. I have it made into a 416 two years ago. If you are going with the stroker motor route, I suppose a 360 to 408 is fine. Same cost to build but you save the extra $ needed to acquire a 340 block. But if you just want factory stroke, I am one of those that would think a 340 is more desirable and matches with a 71 Cuda. I agree with Shane on the 340. A number matching 318 might appeal to a few only. I am sure you will save the number matching 318 motor anyway.

[Skdmark]

I've got a similar situation with my 71 Barracuda. It has the original 318 with 904 and 7 1/4.

For the engine, I'm planning on doing a 408 Magnum with EQ heads that have the LA intake bolt pattern.
Dress the engine to look like an LA. Hide a Holley Sniper EFI under the air cleaner.

[Matt13]

Just to clarify, my Barracuda is a '73 with a 1971 318. I'm considering the '69 340 over the '73 340. The '69 includes everything carb to oil pan. Same price as the '73 block.

[dodj]

The 73 will have hardened exhaust seats I believe, making it more unleaded friendly. If that matters to you. 
But if it were me, I'd go for rebuilding a 300 dollar 318 or 360 core instead of a$1500, 340 core. Unless of course I had a 71 that was coded for a 340.

[torredcuda]

It seems 90% of guys tell you the more cubes the better, I love my 340 but many think anything less than a 440 is worthless. The 340 has a cool factor over a 318 or 360 as they are rarer and were a factory performance engine but for what you want the 318 or 360 is an easy biuld to decent performance. I biult a 340 because it was already in my `72 Barracuda originally a 318 car.

[captcolour]

Just to clarify, my Barracuda is a '73 with a 1971 318. I'm considering the '69 340 over the '73 340. The '69 includes everything carb to oil pan. Same price as the '73 block.

Thought I missed that you had a '73, but original post wasn't clear.  Being a '73, 340 or 360 is still correct (production date aside).  I'd opt for the '69 340 myself.  Date code won't matter since the engine is obviously not original.

[RUNCHARGER]

If I had a 340 I would build it stock stroke rather than a stroker (that's what 360's are for). I love the free revving nature of a good high compression 340.

[7212Mopar]

Sorry got the years mixed up. In my HS days, I drove a 72 Challenger with a 318 and my buddy had a 73 Barracuda with a 318. I hot rod mine and my buddy replaced his engine with a rebuild 318. Both cars were still slow and we both wanted a 340 like the one in another friend's Challenger.

Between the two 340s you are checking, condition of the blocks will be an important factories you can inspect. If I understand correct, the 73 block is original bore? That is also date closer to your car.

[HP2]

So, the 340 core is $1500. A 340 crank kit will be $2000. New heads are going to run you $1500. So you are up to $5000 and you still need to put it together.  Not sure where your assembly skills are at or if you will be paying a shop to assemble this all so this cost is somewhere from a few hundred to another grand plus the time involved with either assembly path.

Or you call up a crate provider for a complete or long block set up
Complete Blueprint Engines, 375 hp 408 stroker, $5000
Carolina Engine Machine 335hp 318 long block $3400
ATK 360 320hp long block $3000
VEGE 360 roller long block, should be an easy 300hp $2300

[7212Mopar]

My 340 is a 70 or 71 block so it should be a steel crank. I got the 340 CI intake, valve covers, J heads, oil pan, , oil pump with pick up, piston and rods all sitting in my shed. OP is not far from me and he can have these parts free if he wants them assuming if he goes with the 73 bare block. The 340 windage tray has a crack but I dont think that is an expensive part.

[Matt13]

My 340 is a 70 or 71 block so it should be a steel crank. I got the 340 CI intake, valve covers, J heads, oil pan, , oil pump with pick up, piston and rods all sitting in my shed. OP is not far from me and he can have these parts free if he wants them assuming if he goes with the 73 bare block. The 340 windage tray has a crack but I dont think that is an expensive part.

That's very generous of you. I've just found out the guy with the complete 1969 340 has 2! The other one is in a lil red express, it is also a '69 340!

[Scooter]

So, the 340 core is $1500. A 340 crank kit will be $2000. New heads are going to run you $1500. So you are up to $5000 and you still need to put it together.  Not sure where your assembly skills are at or if you will be paying a shop to assemble this all so this cost is somewhere from a few hundred to another grand plus the time involved with either assembly path.

Or you call up a crate provider for a complete or long block set up
Complete Blueprint Engines, 375 hp 408 stroker, $5000
Carolina Engine Machine 335hp 318 long block $3400
ATK 360 320hp long block $3000
VEGE 360 roller long block, should be an easy 300hp $2300

I look at what these builders have to offer every now and then. Don't most of them stroke the 360 to 408 or whatever using the magnum blocks?