Carb size for my setup

[HP_Cuda]

Cody

Remember you have to slow the flow to get the coolant to cool while its in the radiator. Otherwise you are just passing warm coolant through the system. If you reduce the amount of time the coolant can exchange heat with the radiator it's kinda self defeating.

B

[erik70rt]

The engine can run too cool accelerating wear inside the engine & cause incomplete combustion ,ie back fire out of the pipes

That's an easy enough change.  I'm not going to change the cam at this point.  How about plugs?  I'll have to check what I have for the temp.

[Chryco Psycho]

A cooler plug can help with detonation but it may foul up quickly too

[erik70rt]

 
I cannot even find specs for a Ch 292 but I am guessing it has 292* duration which is huge I doubt you have 5"of vacuum at idle !
Who picked that cam?

I forgot to answer this question.  The guy who does my engine machine work picked it.  I wanted something with more lift, but wanted to stay with hydraulic lifters for a street engine.  He recommended this cam for it's streetability saying he used them before with great results.

[Shane Kelley]

Why?    Wasn't the goal originally to get the car up to operating temp as fast as possible, so they used a stat to stop the coolant until it was hot?  So in a daily driver it makes sense to use a 180 and let the car warm up.  If the car is like most E-Bodies these days, it's not a daily driver and usually only driven on nice warm days.  So getting the car up to temp fast isn't as big of a deal as it was back in the day.  I want my engine to stay as cool as possible as I manly go cruising and sometimes sit stuck in traffic.  I have even removed the stat all together and instead use the wide 3 core (or 4 core) radiators with a custom dimple core to slow the water down where it's needed.... in the radiator.  I don't want the bottle neck of the coolant flow to be in the stat, I want the coolant to get to the radiator, then the dimples slow it down and get the coolant as cold as possible before it goes back to the engine.  I never had over heating trouble even when I'm sitting in a parade idling in 100 temps.   

Change to 180*

But this will always be a debate. I like a 160 in my cars also. I don't need it to get to 180 and heat soak everything so the cooling system has to play catch up. I would rather start cooling at a lower temp. I also have removed T stat all together on some hot running cars. I does keep them running cooler. 

[RUNCHARGER]

My Dad told me decades ago that an engine has to be at operating temperature to run efficiently and I have always agreed with that. I like to run a 180 or 195 in my cars and make sure the cooling system is up to par so it will control it there. The newly formulated gasoline sure doesn't like heat though. Hence injection but that's another topic.

[Chryco Psycho]

I changed out the springs in the carb to the lightest set I have - 3 in hg.  I reset the timing to approx. 18 degrees initial and 36 at 2500 rpm.  The vacuum at idle is 5 in lbs and 18 at 2500 rpm and steady. 

My cam is Comp grind 292H-10 part # 20-243-4 - part of the Magnum series (not Xtreme like I posted earlier).  It has .501 lift intake and exhaust.  Duration @.050 is 244 intake and exhaust.  Lobe lift .3340 for both and lobe separation is 110.0

I also rechecked my engine specs and it's 10:1, not 9:1.  So I may need a higher octane gas, too.

with 244 * @ .050 you could be almost .600 lift with a flat tappet solid , with only .500 lift you could be in the 220* range   , 292* advertised is huge & thus the 5" idle vacuum
This is what I would have suggested https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/lun-10200703/overview/make/dodge

[erik70rt]

I had a 268 in a 340 I built a few years ago.  Loved that cam. 

[erik70rt]

What do you all think of this carb?  Anyone ever use it?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-br-67257

[Cuda Cody]

Looks like a basic Holley design.  Should be easy to tune if the quality is there.

[Chryco Psycho]

Get the Proform  similar carb better quality & price , the ones I listed have a billet base plate not cast like that one has .
Nothing wrong with QF just you pay more for the same thing .
I would also lean toward using the Street Double pump not the vacuum secondary  better milage when you foot is out of it & far better response when your foot is into it

[erik70rt]

Ordered the Proform 67213 you recommended. 

[erik70rt]

Carb is arriving today.  As I have never worked with a Proform, any tips for getting it tuned well?  Air Bleed size/setup?  Fuel line (single or dual feed)?  Linkage adjustments?

[Chryco Psycho]

I believe there is a Holley tuning guide I wrote in the reference material section , go through the basic tuning& get it as good as you can then we can get into air bleeds etc . low vacuum requires smaller air bleeds you ca see the effect by inserting a small diameter wire into the bleed while running , [do not drop it in !!] but the engine will change as you insert the wire

[Shane Kelley]

Carb is arriving today.  As I have never worked with a Proform, any tips for getting it tuned well?  Air Bleed size/setup?  Fuel line (single or dual feed)?  Linkage adjustments?

Put it on right on and see what happens. You may not need to do anything other than idle adjustment. These newer high end carbs are pretty sweet right out of the box. I run the Quick Fuel carbs and they use the Pro Form main bodies. The idle air bleeds are the only things that I usually have to mess with. But I always run larger ones. I think they come with 70's and I usually end up around 85's on my motors. If your eyeballs are bleeding from the fumes at idle you will need larger ones to lean out the idle circuit. But like I said. See what happens.