Distributor Limiter Plate - Anyone Make Their Own

[Cudajason]

I like the idea around the FBO advance limiter plate, but I don't want to spent the money on one. 

Has anyone made their own plate...It looks like a simple enough piece to make.  My only concern is how thick to make it.

I know you can just weld up the slots, I have actually used JB Weld with no issues (easier to file too), but I think it would be fun to make a few and try a few options out. I have the dimensions to provide different amounts of advance, so it should be easy to make a few.

Jason

[RUNCHARGER]

I agree: That should be an easy piece to make. I measure the slots and weld them up to get the total I want.

[1 Wild R/T]

I agree to just welding the slots but actually make a new plate.... My time to make that is worth more than $25.....

http://www.manciniracing.com/fbomodilipl.html

[Cudakiller70]

Help a brother out
https://forum.e-bodies.org/parts-for-sale/9/fbo-ignition-limiter-advance-plate/7112/
About $35 Canadian to you I'm guessing.

[Chryco Psycho]

I have always welded in the slots

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

I made mine with a blank outlet cover plate...

Just make sure the center hole is large enough to clear the stakes on the center shaft, so it can sit flat on the advance plate (3/4" I believe)...

My dizzy had 15 degrees mechanical (30 total), and new cam liked 18 best, and needed 8 degrees (16 total), so slots had to be half as long. I shortened my slots on the inside portion, so the advance springs are a little tighter, raising the start of advance up to about 1200 rpm. That way i wasn't fighting mechanical advance at the higher idle cam needs...

[Katfish]

This is 1 of those things that couldn't cost more than $1 to make, once tooled.
Not worth your time for a single piece unless you just like to tinker.

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

I agree it isn't cost efficient, but I didn't like the FBO only adjusting the outside edge of the slots... if they made one that shortened the slots from the inside edge, I would have went with them... Plus I like to tinker... LOL

I found that if your timing is bouncing around at idle with vacuum advance unplugged and capped, then the mechanical is the culprit, and with larger cams, the primary spring (not the elongated hole spring) will start advancing around 850-900 rpm.

Shortening the slots on the inside edge tightens the springs slightly, raising that starting point, and can cure two issues at once, start and total advance allowed...

[Cudajason]

I agree it isn't cost efficient, but I didn't like the FBO only adjusting the outside edge of the slots... if they made one that shortened the slots from the inside edge, I would have went with them... Plus I like to tinker... LOL

I found that if your timing is bouncing around at idle with vacuum advance unplugged and capped, then the mechanical is the culprit, and with larger cams, the primary spring (not the elongated hole spring) will start advancing around 850-900 rpm.

Shortening the slots on the inside edge tightens the springs slightly, raising that starting point, and can cure two issues at once, start and total advance allowed...

I am in the same boat...I like to tinker and like the limit the advance on the inside edge of the slots.

How thick is the plate you used @73_Cuda_4_Me

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

It can be any thickness that is less than the height of the staked shaft that sticks above plate... refer to picture 004

I'm guessing mine is .060 to .100"

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

Just measured another cover plate similar to the one I used and it is .070...

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

I also confirmed amount of advance... not pretty, but effective and accurate on bench, confirmed when installed...

printed degree wheel glued to cardboard, and black zip tie... 8 degrees here is half of what crank advance will be - 16 degrees mechanical total, plus initial timing of 18 equals 34 degrees all in...

[Shane Kelley]

I agree to just welding the slots but actually make a new plate.... My time to make that is worth more than $25.....

http://www.manciniracing.com/fbomodilipl.html

  By the way I never knew this part existed.  Awesome! Thanks for posting. 

[gzig5]

Slightly off topic but if you are tearing down the dizzy, maybe not.  What gets lubricated where and with what on the internals?  I did a google and came up empty.  Mine is pretty nasty inside and needs a cleanup if nothing else and I'm planning on making/buying a limit plate, so I'll be in there anyway.

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

I used a very light coating coating of grease on the counterweight pins, and a smear of 30 weight oil on center shaft during assembly. After assembly you add a drop or two of oil to the sponge oiler that goes over the center shaft/snap ring at final assembly...

I found that short pcs of lubricant spray tube (the red ones that push into the spray nozzles for pinpoint application) work well for spreading the snap ring to pull off the center shaft... be careful, as it will fly away and disappear VERY easily... ask me how I know!

Note that long Michigan winters make for a lot of 'tinker' time to keep busy...