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Engine Painting tips

Started by nsmall, July 04, 2017, 05:12:19 PM

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nsmall

I'm changing my engine color.  The engine was recently rebuilt by the previous owner and has a nice coat of paint on it but I'm going with a different color.

I was planning on using a red Scotch-Brite pad and scuff it, clean off the grease and grime...bam, lay down some rattle can paint.

I'll take any suggestions as I do want the paint to last but I also understand that it will only look nice for so long.

I thought someone started a thread on this but I've looked and looked and cannot find it.

Thanks

Neil


nsmall

Thank you.  I remember you chiming in Cody.  Anyone have any recommendations for a decent spray can of primer?


Cuda Cody

They make a rattle can spray paint epoxy that is two part.  It will be WAAAAAY better then any single part rattle can primer.  It's a one time use because you press the button on the bottom to mix the 2 parts inside the rattle can then use it.  I think it's called 2K and the hardener is in the can.

Quote from: nsmall on July 04, 2017, 09:40:19 PM
Thank you.  I remember you chiming in Cody.  Anyone have any recommendations for a decent spray can of primer?

Shane Kelley

Get you a can of the 2k clear also. Let you color dry and hit it with some 2k clear. That will make it shine and hold up better. I use a gun with base and clear on all my motors. They hold up great and clean real nice. The 2k stuff will get you close.

nsmall

Okay I'm buying the primer and I'm buying the clear.  Neither say anything about high temperatures.  Are these okay to use on an engine?

As for the wax and grease remover should I buy this.....https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002969BQW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly should I try to take as much paint off the engine as I can before putting it in primer?

Thanks


Cuda Cody

Putting any paint or primer over old paint will only be as strong as your old paint.  So if the paint that is on there now is cheap rattle can, then there is no point to buy 2k primer, 2k paint and 2k clear.   :alan2cents:

If the paint that is on there now is super good, then you only need to scuff it with some red scotch bright (about 320 grit), clean, clean, clean and then clean some more, then primer, paint and clear.


RUNCHARGER

I always wipe them with body shop wax and grease remover, no matter how you spray them.
Sheldon

nsmall

@RUNCHARGER

I'm assuming it would be best to keep the exhaust manifold gasket area free of paint?

I'm probably going to put headers on my car and so I was thinking of buying them now and putting the gasket in the area where I'm going to paint the engine and keep the area under the gasket free from paint.

Not sure if that makes sense but I'm trying to keep the best seal with the gasket against the block, yet have the paint job turn out good on the engine.

Thanks

Neil

Shane Kelley

Here's how I do them. I used vinyl lettering pre mask and masking tape. But 2" masking tape will work fine also. I clean everything really good. I usually put lacquer thinner in a paint gun and use it like a power washer with high pressure and clean the engine. Then I blow it dry. Next I mask everything off and then fasten the gaskets down with a couple bolts and washers. Then I trace them with a pen. Next remove bolts and gaskets. Use a razor blade and cut just inside the trace line. This will help make sure you have no bare metal showing once it's all assembled. I used etching primer and a thin coat of sealer before the base color and clear. The epoxy primer will work in place of the etch and sealer. Before the paint dries, carefully remove all the mask. If you let it dry it will be hard to remove without peeling paint.
I'm not saying my way is better than anybody else's. It's just how I do it and it does work nicely.

Sleepychallenger

Da*n that's one nice looking engine  :yes:


nsmall

@Shane Kelley

As always thanks for sharing info and your pictures.

When you mask off areas you don't want to paint do you use tape and paper?

Im debating taking everything off the engine, but I know that's the best way for great results. 

Thanks everyone.

Neil


Shane Kelley

Just use some good quality 2" masking tape. On the large areas just do a good overlap of the tape. Sometimes when you have to bridge across large areas (lifter valley etc) run your tape the other direction crossing over the first layer. Kind of like a weave.

RUNCHARGER

That's what I do as well. You use a bit of tape but it's no big deal.
Sheldon

nsmall

@Cuda Cody

The 2k primer and paint worked awesome when it comes to durability for my K frame, suspension pieces, and rear end.

The 2K primer was a little chunky so the Finish isn't quite what I would want but I know it's at least very durable versus a rattle can.

As for the engine I'm planning to use 2K primer but I'm a little torn on what choice to use for paint.  I have some rattle can Chrysler orange engine paint.  But I do have the option to buy some 2K engine paint.  It's from eastwood and it's unfortunately Chevy Orange.... Try to ignore I just said Chevy.

Will the 2K engine paint be considerably better than just the rattle can paint?

For the record Eastwood sells 2K high heat engine primer.

Thanks Cody.  The car is coming along pretty good.  I really like restoring parts.   Here are the latest pics....