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Engine Painting tips

Started by nsmall, July 04, 2017, 05:12:19 PM

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Cuda Cody

2K paints will always be better then single part paints (normal rattle cans) regardless if they are high heat rated or not.  Single part rattle can paints are a thermoplastic and can always be removed with heat or a chemical.  2K paints are a thermoset and once mixed can not be removed or easily affected by chemicals.  Think about it like this, thermoplastics (rattle cans) are like butter in that they can be melted and a 2K thermoset (2 part paints that have a hardener) is like concrete in that it is a chemical reaction that can not be undone.  So yes, 2k two part paints will always be stronger then single part paints.

The key for engines is to use a flexible agent primer that allows the engine and metal to heat up and move without cracking the paint.  That's why I use the primers I do so they hold up well over time.

Cudalbs

Thanks for the pics Neil, keep them coming as you move along.


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7E-Bodies

@Shane Kelley realizing that this is an old thread, I still have to ask. I'm about ready to shoot color on my newly rebuilt 440 for my 70 RT. My PPG guy told me not to go with BCCC and to stick with the single stage for durability. I don't know who to believe, but I'd lean towards you, especially if you've had long lasting success. I already have many of the chemicals for Deltron BCCC (AKA huge bucks), so I'd only need to get a quart(?) of (EV2?) mixed up to shoot over my PPG Epoxy? I also have the big bucks clear. Do you by chance have the paint formula and would you share it? Any help appreciated.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


MoparLeo

The number one rule in paint is Prep... Clean, clean, clean., And thin coats, 3 thin is much better than 1 thick.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

JS29

I know you asked shane kelley, but I agree with your paint guy. Single stage would be better.  :alan2cents:

Wayne

I used a single stage urethane enamel.  3 light coats of color after being primed.  Trust me, you won't regret it and will never paint an engine another way.  Its held up better than you can imagine and still looks incredible. 

1970 Cuda 383 4spd red on red
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headejm

 :iagree: I wouldn't go BCCC on an engine. I used 2K urethane over black epoxy primer. Very happy with the results.  :alan2cents:

Original hemi orange engine paint is Ditzler EQE-60626 w/ 25% Ditzler DX-265 flattening agent. That is the formula I followed.


7E-Bodies

@headejm stunning example! Pics and info saved. THANK YOU
:perfect10: :yes:
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

tparker

I went with Frank Baldason's engine paints found at https://www.rogergibsonautorestoration.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/2015_catalogGLTfMy.pdf. It was expensive at about $100 I sprayed it, but I seem to recall you could do it with a brush.

I just tapped it up and sprayed it. Found a couple YouTube vids and followed them. Only tips are use good tape, fresh razor blades to cut tape, and use a little grease on the freeze plugs. Make sure you clean the surfaces nice before painting and after taping.