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Engine will not start

Started by Aar1064, April 18, 2017, 05:13:37 PM

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Aar1064

Quote from: HP_Cuda on April 18, 2017, 06:45:46 PM

Correct.

The coil should be around 1.3 to 1.7 ohms
The ballast should be at 1.2 ohms
You stated your wires are correct to manufacturers specs.

B

Quote from: Aar1064 on April 18, 2017, 06:22:55 PM
Quote from: HP_Cuda on April 18, 2017, 05:59:01 PM

First off you are running rich, that may be because you are not getting spark.

Check the resistance on the coil, ballast resistor and wires. This should point at the culprit.

8)

Just to be sure  :thinking: resistance between positive and negative on the coil? I've checked wires and they are good?

So I went out to ohm the resistor and coil and they are within specs. Decided to round up another spark plug and plugged it into number 5 wire and try to see if there was a spark and when I turned engine over it tried to start so I plugged this wire back into plug in engine then turned engine over and it now starts. It's a little rough but timing needs to be set.

The only thing that changed was when I was checking the ohms on the resistor I unplugged the wires in order to get a correct reading. Could it be a bad resistor? Maybe the wire terminal wasn't making contact.

Aar1064

Quote from: mopar jack on April 18, 2017, 07:39:40 PM
Got to  ask, when you re-installed  the distributor did you put in correctly. Maybe 180 degrees off?

Thought about that and checked and it was good.

Cuda Cody

Good thinking.  It's easy to do.... don't ask how I know.   :bricks:

Quote from: mopar jack on April 18, 2017, 07:39:40 PM
Got to  ask, when you re-installed  the distributor did you put in correctly. Maybe 180 degrees off?


1 Wild R/T

What a real ignition looks like.... Ford E coil, GM module & a Chrysler distributor to trigger it...  click the link...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be


CudaMoparRay

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 18, 2017, 08:59:39 PM
What a real ignition looks like.... Ford E coil, GM module & a Chrysler distributor to trigger it...  click the link...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be

Very interesting, will probably look into this for a future upgrade

Chryco Psycho

sorry busy all day & never got to look at this.

Chryco Psycho

get it running again & start tuning it


Aar1064

@Chryco Psycho I will set timing this afternoon after work and update everyone.

Brads70

While I never tried it, I kept this drawing in case someone else found it useful.

HP_Cuda


I'll let you hold my distributor cap while I crank it over as I have a fake setup.

:haha:


Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 18, 2017, 08:59:39 PM
What a real ignition looks like.... Ford E coil, GM module & a Chrysler distributor to trigger it...  click the link...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Cuda Cody

That thing is throwing lightning bolts!   :lookatthat:  Has anyone tried that set up?

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 18, 2017, 08:59:39 PM
What a real ignition looks like.... Ford E coil, GM module & a Chrysler distributor to trigger it...  click the link...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be


Aar1064

Well I couldn't stand it so before work this morning I ran out to garage to start engine and it fired one time and then wouldn't start. Something is definitely up but what? Think I may pick up a condenser and pop it in after work today.

:dunno:

71GranCoupe

No expert by any means, but the spark would be a concern for me. Not sure how long you had it running, but the plugs sure look like they Might be fouled. I would install some new ones and see how the spark compares to what you have now. If the cap is not NEW, get a one. Double check your timing and everything else that goes with this type of problem. Good luck and keep us informed.  :cheers:

mopar jack

I agree on the condenser. Easy to replace, inexpensive with no adjustment needed. Check to see if there is oil leaking around the condenser. When they leak they become intermittent and produce a weak spark.

1 Wild R/T

Lately they don't need to go bad, they come out of the box that way.... I know not many point ignitions are left anymore so maybe the manufacturers have forgotten how to make a condenser... Or they figure if you can't make it work you'll replace it with one of their top quality ready to run distributors....   Last point type ignition I worked on a few years ago the guy had replaced the points & condenser twice & was sure the problem was elsewhere... I looked it over throughly & finally replaced the points & condenser one more time this time with Blue Streak components.... It fired right up & ran great.... For about three months... Till the condenser took a dump again.... I suggested he either start looking for NORS ignition parts or change to an electronic conversion of some sort....