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found my ignition problem

Started by jordan, July 01, 2017, 09:41:44 AM

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Chryco Psycho

The factory coils were OK mounted horizontal but the MSD will not work that way for sure , you could also go to the dry coils like HEI use

Shane Kelley

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 28, 2017, 08:42:15 AM
The factory coils were OK mounted horizontal but the MSD will not work that way for sure , you could also go to the dry coils like HEI use
The epoxy filled one resolved my issue. But MSD should make a note that it won't work on it's side. Honestly they should have just made the Blaster2 better in the first place. With  today's technology there is no reason for it. I also find it very hard to believe they have never heard of the problem.

Chryco Psycho

It is amazing what you have never heard of if you do not listen
Kinda reminds me of another vendor ....
I have had numerous Blaster coils fail when factory mounted horizontal


73440

Quote from: Burdar on July 28, 2017, 07:45:53 AM
I didn't think the epoxy filled coils were recommended for street use.   :dunno:

MSD literature says the 8222 epoxy filled is used for off road , marine and harsh conditions , to help against vibrations.
The instructions note it can be mountd in any position..
I may put the RevN ator coil in the trunk as a spare , or just install .

HP_Cuda


Neil - you are 100% correct but the problem is folks don't read. They take a blaster coil mount it horizontally for awhile and then a while later they start having problems. The blaster coil literature even says to mount it vertically.

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 28, 2017, 08:42:15 AM
The factory coils were OK mounted horizontal but the MSD will not work that way for sure , you could also go to the dry coils like HEI use
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Shane Kelley

Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 29, 2017, 11:31:34 AM

Neil - you are 100% correct but the problem is folks don't read. They take a blaster coil mount it horizontally for awhile and then a while later they start having problems. The blaster coil literature even says to mount it vertically.

If you read the instructions is says "the Baster coil is designed to mount in most factory canister coil mounts" and " it is recommended to mount in upright position". When I read recommended I consider that a personal choice. It should say MUST be mounted in a upright position or coil will fail. IMO I won't even go into the fact that MSD tech support said it would fine and that's not the problem or Summit racing tech support showed no issues and should be fine mounted in that position.
My cam instructions say "for off road use only". So does that mean it will fail on the street?

RUNCHARGER

Call me silly but I don't generally read instruction when changing a coil other than the recommended ballast resistor, so I think that's how so many get mounted wrong. I think I probably read the instructions after the first one failed.
Sheldon


Chryco Psycho

I generally use the vibration coils on restos or pertronics coils or .....
the epoxy filled coil will be fine

HP_Cuda


Shane

Read at your own risk then.

:haha:

Quote from: Shane Kelley on July 30, 2017, 07:27:49 AM
Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 29, 2017, 11:31:34 AM

Neil - you are 100% correct but the problem is folks don't read. They take a blaster coil mount it horizontally for awhile and then a while later they start having problems. The blaster coil literature even says to mount it vertically.

If you read the instructions is says "the Baster coil is designed to mount in most factory canister coil mounts" and " it is recommended to mount in upright position". When I read recommended I consider that a personal choice. It should say MUST be mounted in a upright position or coil will fail. IMO I won't even go into the fact that MSD tech support said it would fine and that's not the problem or Summit racing tech support showed no issues and should be fine mounted in that position.
My cam instructions say "for off road use only". So does that mean it will fail on the street?
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Shane Kelley

Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 31, 2017, 09:57:12 AM

Shane

Read at your own risk then.

:haha:

Quote from: Shane Kelley on July 30, 2017, 07:27:49 AM
Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 29, 2017, 11:31:34 AM

Neil - you are 100% correct but the problem is folks don't read. They take a blaster coil mount it horizontally for awhile and then a while later they start having problems. The blaster coil literature even says to mount it vertically.

If you read the instructions is says "the Baster coil is designed to mount in most factory canister coil mounts" and " it is recommended to mount in upright position". When I read recommended I consider that a personal choice. It should say MUST be mounted in a upright position or coil will fail. IMO I won't even go into the fact that MSD tech support said it would fine and that's not the problem or Summit racing tech support showed no issues and should be fine mounted in that position.
My cam instructions say "for off road use only". So does that mean it will fail on the street?
:cheers:

tman

Kind of a "potato or potatoe" interpretation.  If I read "recommended" that is a key word.  I would be mounting it vertically.  It mentions specific part numbers on the recommendation and then another part number which can be mounted any direction.  That tells me, to get the alternative to mount horizontally.   It is a wishy washy way of saying things, but that is how they elect to tell customers.


jordan

Hi guys.  What is a reasonable initial timing degree?  I am at 20* now and 30* all in at 3000 rpm.  I am set conservative on total now until I have a full tank of 93 octane.  I have had the initial lower that this.  I think it is much easier starting and smoother idling at a lower number like 16*.  I opted to buy the FBO timing plate and springs to give me the range of timing I want.  My hope is to get it to start and run easy at 16*, and set it up with 18* of advance for a total of 34* all in at approx 3000rpm.  Does this seem like a decent place to start?  Is my total advance RPM good or can I lower it by a bit?  Obviously I will change the total advance lower if I get some pinging.  So how low can I go on the initial?  Is it only dependent on idle quality and starting ability?

I have a stroker RB 520", roller rocker, roller lifter, .575 lift cam, 440 source heads with custom porting and larger intake valve, 6bbl intake and TTi headers, and 11:1 compression(?)

Thanks
"Don't brake until you see God!"

Brads70

I'm also using the MSD coil ( black vibration one) mounted on it's side with no issues.

I built a pretty snotty 383 Chevy back in the early 90's and to avoid race fuel I used an Edelbrock water injection system. It had a little " brain box" about half the size of a current MSD ignition box.
It needed a vacuum signal and had a series of pin switches so you could " program" when it came on and how much water it pumped in. Reservoir for water was the size of a washer bottle with a pump on it.  It had a brass "jet"  assembly that fastened   to the air cleaner stud. Spark plugs were always clean too!  It worked great and you sure knew when it was out of water! Used it for 8 plus years till the car rotted away.
Back then this was my daily driver and  in the winters I would add a couple bottles of rubbing  alcohol to the water tank to prevent it from freezing.
Not new technology.... WWII aircraft used it.... (Spitfires)

Edit: google  Edelbrock Vara-jection

jordan

Im still working on burning my tank down to get a fresh start of 93 octane so I can optimize my set up for 93.  I have been out driving hard on 94 octane at 30* total with no hint or sign of engine knock.  So I am not so sure that my compression ratio is 12:1 like I was recently told.  I have had a couple of friends mention the water injection.  I will wait to see how the distributor recurve goes before I need to add octane or water. 
  Im really at a loss as to why moving my coil made such a drastic change.  I thought it was voodoo, but all I know is that my car is running great, and all of its ignition issues that it has been having are gone.  All I did is change the plugs and move the coil. 

I want to increase my range of timing for good starts and max power.  Still looking for a good initial timing number. 

I can't believe how hard it can pull even in 3rd gear!!  The torque is intoxicating!!  Still looking to squeeze a few more horses out of it!!
"Don't brake until you see God!"

Chryco Psycho

I am addicted to power as well , I cannot build a stock engine ever , it may look stock  :rubeyes:
Glad you are getting it sorted out , 3rd gear is where the engine has time to really pull hard !!
initial timing is not all that critical , but it is easy to sort out , advance the timing & see if it responds better if it does it needs a shorter curve with more initial advance without over advancing at high rpm where it will spend most of its time anyway which is why initial is less critical .