Main Menu

Gearvendors install completed.....

Started by Mickm, February 09, 2018, 07:22:17 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

GoodysGotaCuda

Quote from: gumby on February 10, 2018, 04:29:09 AM
I'm kinda starting to panic at how fast stuff can add up? lol.

If you're worried at all about cost, you should steer clear from a hellcat engine. 700hp and budget aren't to be used within the same thread.

There are always "twin turbo" or hellcat swap projects that get off the ground and either eternally stall due to budget constraints or end up significantly scaled back. Be realistic with the expectations, cost and how it will be used.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs

BIGSHCLUNK

I've wanted a GV for years, just never seem to get to it. I always thought I could change out the 3.23's and still have a nice hiway ratio. A buddy had one in his pickup and loved it. At this stage of life my Biggest issue is laying on my back for hours.....   :wrenching:  :stop:

61K T/A

Is the Tinfish a BB or SB. Do you have sub frame connectors installed and what size exhaust pipe are you using.  Please post a pic of the install. I have a GV in my F-450 with 4.88's and works great on the highway even when pulling a trailer.


Mickm

I am about to leave for the day but will post pictures tomorrow morning.
The TINFISH has a rebuilt to stock 340 (F.A.S.T. EFI), cast iron exhaust with 2.5" tubing and stainless Magnaflow mufflers.
The rear gear ratio is 3:23.

Cheers!
Mickm

Mickm

61K T/A- I forgot to answer your question. Yes, my TINFISH does have Hotchis frame connectors as well as front and rear suspension.

Now for install outline. I didn't take enough pictures but I never do I have come to realize. Here's what I have to share.....

1. I had to remove the exhaust so I used exhaust pipe pliers which makes a very nice straight cut.
2. First thing to do is jack up the tranny, remove the crossmember. Next remove the rear section of the original transmission.
3. Install the GV tail section.
To this point everything goes very quick and painlessly.
4. Now you will mount the GV transmission. The problem here is the unit is fairly heavy and you have to mount it, mark the trans tunnel, hammer the area out for boss clearance. I had to repeat this several times until I had adequate clearance.
Here the unit is mounted up solid....

5. I did have a problem getting the driveshaft shortened. I measure as instructed more times than I can count but when I got the shaft back it was .50" too short!  No idea how that happened. Now, I called GV and asked about this plunge dimension they give and was told that more people come up short than get it right. SO, they sell a different snout that has .50" additional splines. That was a $100 mistake...

That is about all it is to it......now for the wiring.

6. They give you options for controlling the unit. I opted to put th on/off button into my pistol grip shifter. The other option is a dimmer switch beneath the brake pedal. To get my button installed I had to disassemble the AutoGrip shifter, drill a hole in the left side plate. Then I had to machine a .1000" slot into the front of the aluminum handle. This could be done with a cut wheel I suppose but since I have a mill, it seemed the better way to go.
Here is the shifter handle and button.


Next, you have to mount the manual/auto toggle switch and the red and green light.  I decided to add these to the right side of my instrument panel so when the red is visible I will  know the unit is in "automatic" mode. As for the two lights. I found that I could insert the light thru a small rubber hole grommet, add some WD40 and slide them into the two original light holes in the instrument panel. I am very pleased how these came out.

You  can see  the right switch just above the radio on the right side.

The last thing to do was mount the control unit. I decided the drivers side kick panel had a great place for it. Also, the American Auto Wire plug I needed to access for power is located there.  I removed a small amount of the plastic around the unit so air could easily get to it to keep it cool.


Sorry, there aren't more pictures but if there is anything you would like to see, I'll take a picture.
Everything seems to be working perfectly thus far and I am very pleased with how works. I'll share my gas mileage once I find out what it is.

Thanks for watching,

Cheers!
Mickm


MOPAR MITCH

Mickm -- about how much extra weight does the overall GV unit, etc, add?

T/Anks for your postings!!

1971Y13

Should be rally happy if you can give me the measurement on the driveshaft u-joints C/C, I have a GV waiting to be installed.
1971 'Cuda
1968 GTX


dodj

Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on February 23, 2018, 10:36:27 PM
Mickm -- about how much extra weight does the overall GV unit, etc, add?

T/Anks for your postings!!
I think the GV unit is 35-40 pounds
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

RUNCHARGER

Nice upgrade, That 35# is low and in the middle of the car too.
Sheldon

Mickm

1971Y13,
I will gladly measure my driveshaft if you really want me to but I would strongly suggest you go thru installing everything yourself and using your measurement.
I say this cause I measured my more times than I can count and I still came up 1/2" to short! I have no idea how it happened but Mike told me it happens quite a lot. So much so they offer a different yoke that has 1/2" more spline engagement to account for it.  It's $100 just in case your wondering. lol

Cheers!
Mickm

1971Y13

Quote from: Mickm on February 24, 2018, 09:35:41 PM
1971Y13,
I will gladly measure my driveshaft if you really want me to but I would strongly suggest you go thru installing everything yourself and using your measurement.
I say this cause I measured my more times than I can count and I still came up 1/2" to short! I have no idea how it happened but Mike told me it happens quite a lot. So much so they offer a different yoke that has 1/2" more spline engagement to account for it.  It's $100 just in case your wondering. lol

Cheers!
Mickm

My thoughts were more like I could keep my eys open for a used one just a tad longer an then get it shortened to fit properly, did this to the GTX and found one that was just 2/16" to long and that was taken care of in the front hanger, found it at ebay for $100 old racing driveshaft hardly not used.
1971 'Cuda
1968 GTX


cataclysm80

Is changing the oil of the Gear Vendors unit a hassle?
Is there a drain plug, and how do you fill it?
I hope you don't have to buy a new pan gasket for every oil change.

Did Gear Vendors have a provision for mounting the slap stick shift bracket that normally fastens to the tail housing?

Any difficulty routing the speedometer cable?

Did you need to adjust your pinion angle any?

Thanks!

Marc70challenger

Quote from: cataclysm80 on February 25, 2018, 07:53:36 AM
Is changing the oil of the Gear Vendors unit a hassle?
Is there a drain plug, and how do you fill it?
I hope you don't have to buy a new pan gasket for every oil change.

Did Gear Vendors have a provision for mounting the slap stick shift bracket that normally fastens to the tail housing?

Any difficulty routing the speedometer cable?

Did you need to adjust your pinion angle any?

Thanks!

I can help with a few of the questions.

Changing oil is easy peasy. There is drain plug.  You can see it in pic ... vertically flush, rear facing on the bottom. I would suggest getting one of those screw on squeeze filler lines. Makes filling it easier as to really can't get a quart bottle up and tipped. (See filler spot up higher on back).  Here's what I'm talking about.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EH4UXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We did pinion angle after install.  But if I'm thinking right, the angle will change because the length of the drive shaft is shortened  ... if my geometry recollection is right. Lol.

Other questions I'd have to defer as we didn't deal with that.

PS. Don't overtighten the small "pan" up on the bottom.  10 ft lbs. all you need.  Or you'll crack it.  Like I did. Lol. 




Mickm

All great answers by Marc70challenger, thanks buddy.

As for the speedo cable. I am using a gps speedo so I only ran the included cable from the GV unit to their sending unit which I mounted to the back of the crossmember. I did make  a small 'L" shaped bracket to hold and secure their sensor unit since I wasn't connecting it to a manual speedo cable.
I'll take a pic of it if you would like. If your using a manual speedo cable all you do is connect the end that did connect to your transmission to their sending unit and your set to go.

This isn't a hard install. It takes a bit of thinking to get everything nice and tidy but no big deal.

Cheers!
Mickm

Ric

isn't bad at all, I have 2 of them in a challenger and demon.....