Installing torque converter into big block 727 how many clunks am I looking for?

[GrandpaKevin]

Getting ready to install a new torque converter into a rebuilt 727 going behind a 440.

I'm a 4 speed guy with not much 727 experience, I've seached a bit and watched some videos on installing a converter but some instructions say when installing and rotating the converter there are 2 clunks and some say 3?

Thanks.

[1 Wild R/T]

It should be three, front pump, stator support & input shaft.... But often you'll get two elements at practically the same time, so the best thing to do is throw a straight edge across the bell & check how deep the bolt pads are... Should be around 7/8"... A good trick it your installing from the bottom, take a 5/16 combo wrench put a 1/4-20 bolt through the closed end so the open end is facing away from the bolt head, bolt the wrench to one of the lower convertor cover bolt holes, it will keep the torque convertor from backing out while your installing the trans....

Also, the convertor bolt holes are not symmetrical, it only bolts up one way, three holes are symmetrical but one is offset....... I set the flex plate on the convertor & line up the holes first & mark one hole on the convertor & plate so I don't have to fight it later.....

[Chryco Psycho]

 
  make sure you mark the bolt alignment , if you don't it will be the last of 4 possibilities that is correct everytime !! 

[Cuda Cody]

    1 Wild RT is dead on.  Just did one last week and I used the "throw a straight edge across the bell & check how deep the bolt pads are" way of soing it.

Double check (like they said) to make sure you have the flex plate marked.  It only goes on one way.

[GrandpaKevin]

Thanks guys, I've been doing my research.

I prefit the converter to the flexplate and spray painted the corner so they will match up and I have the wrench ready with 1 longer dust cover bolt to mount the wrench against the converter.

Got the flexplate mounted to the crank and torqued down with new ARP bolts and red loctite.

The engine is installed in the car and up on the lift and I was ready to install the trans. last weekend but when I was cleaning the bolt threads in the trans. case I discovered a small crack in the case up front near one of the dust shield bolts.

I was tempted to just ignore it but decided since the trans. was out to get it repaired.
A quick trip yesterday to my buddy the welding guru and it's ready to go. 

Next challenge will be wiggling the tranny in around the headers....

[1 Wild R/T]

Header can add to the challenge....  Sometimes you gonna roll the tranny somewhat onto it's side to slide the bellhousing past the headers then roll it back flat...  Sometimes it's easier to leave the headers a little loose, hanging on the exhaust studs, get the trans bolted in then tighten the headers...

[GrandpaKevin]

Header can add to the challenge....  Sometimes you gonna roll the tranny somewhat onto it's side to slide the bellhousing past the headers then roll it back flat...  Sometimes it's easier to leave the headers a little loose, hanging on the exhaust studs, get the trans bolted in then tighten the headers...

That's the plan as long as I don't roll the tranny right off the tranny jack

Headers are loose on the studs...I have had great luck with clearance with these stepped exhaust studs, unfortunately they are discontinued so I've bought a few extra sets over the years.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Gasket-3415-Header-Stud-Kit-3-8-16-in-X-1-50-Black-Oxide-Hex-Head/132075854428?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Timbbuc2]

  make sure you mark the bolt alignment , if you don't it will be the last of 4 possibilities that is correct everytime !! 

I learned that the hard way