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Lets Talk Oil and Filters!!!

Started by Wedg2Go, July 24, 2017, 09:17:13 AM

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61K T/A

VR1 Valvoline and K & P engineering oil filter.

Cuda Cody

I use Baldwin fuel filters in the diesels and like them a lot.  Great filters.

Quote from: cordodge on July 24, 2017, 04:05:00 PMAlso heard Baldwin filters are the best but don't really know.

Bruce.

Brads70

WIX filters  and Brad Penn 20W-50


Spikedog08

I use the black mopar performance oil filters as that is what a well know engine builder in my area recommended . . . I have had other mopar friends comment that is what they use as well . .
Drive it like you stole it . . . And they're CHASING you!

Chryco Psycho

VR1 & Mobil only have the zinc in 20-50 w oils , This put unnessisary load on the oil pump drive you may want to upgrade to the MP one   & eats HP too , I generally use 10-30 or 10-40 depending on clearance when the engine was built .

Out of interest I checked in the city today while killing time & Motron makes a 15-40w Racing oil with SJ rating & it was on the shelf

I also found a straight 30 w oil rated SB , not recommended for use in cars newer than 1951 !! I can tell you there is nothing running here from pre 51 !! Not sure why they ordered that oil !!  :crazytalk:

Brads70

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 24, 2017, 10:26:25 PM
VR1 & Mobil only have the zinc in 20-50 w oils , This put unnessisary load on the oil pump drive you may want to upgrade to the MP one   & eats HP too , I generally use 10-30 or 10-40 depending on clearance when the engine was built .

Out of interest I checked in the city today while killing time & Motron makes a 15-40w Racing oil with SJ rating & it was on the shelf

I also found a straight 30 w oil rated SB , not recommended for use in cars newer than 1951 !! I can tell you there is nothing running here from pre 51 !! Not sure why they ordered that oil !!  :crazytalk:

Some small engine stuff uses straight 30 weight?

Wedg2Go

#21
Some here may know I own a '68 Mustang as well as the '70 Challenger. The Mustang is equipped with a mildly modified 289 with a flat tappet cam.

A number of years ago, after the EPA required oil manufacturers to remove the zinc from their shelf bought products, there was this article written by William Anderson from Old Cars Weekly. This article, about oil, went into great detail about the history, viscosity, performance level and the major concern to collector car owners - The steady reduction of the anti-wear additive, ZDDP. So most store bought oil types went from a SH to a SJ to a SL to where we are at today and it was all due to contaminating the catalytic converter if any amount of zinc diakyldithiosphosphate was emitted in the engine exhaust. The article goes on with several solutions for the collector car owners. The work around I used was easy. Simply go buy the motor oil of choice and add one-half ounce, per quart of oil, of General Motors EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). To date, my 289 flat tappet cam engine, has no problems going this route. 

However...

This roller assembly, 440, has placed me into a position that I am not quite sure what to do (the main reason for this thread and of course curiosity). When I purchased the Challenger, last May, I was under the impression shelf bought oil would be good to go. According to the previous owner, I had the wrong impression about what I thought. The story goes as follows:

Me: So I shouldn't use story bought oil? Even with a zinc supplement?
Previous Owner: That's right. My engine builder HIGHLY recommends using Maxima (His choice for engine builder is highly experienced with performance engines).
Me: Never heard of it.
Previous Owner: (Brings out a bottle) 20w50 performance oil with dbl. the zinc written on the bottle.

When I went to pick up the car, he gave me 8 quarts of Maxima as it was very close in mileage to remove the break-in oil and replace with the 20w50 performance oil.

Now, I have done some extensive research regarding this oil. Their main bread and butter is motor oil for...*drum roll*...Motorcycles (I knew I shoulda bought one)! If you poke around enough, on Maxima's WEBsite, you will find out a little something about their performance oil. To date, I haven't completed my research, but did change the oil. After the oil change, I did some more digging to see what the "hands on availability was like" and that is not looking good at all. I can order it from one of the on line speed shops or walmart (You know it's quality if walmart sells it). Ordering, while it's a way of life in the rural communities, is a stumbling block for me when it involves something so common as this (Plus I don't have to spend $ on shipping. I keep them rich enough with what I do now).

Anyway, I am learning! Especially with all the replies in this thread! :yes:

After researching oil filters and slipping away from the drone products pushed by the box auto parts stores (You know the one! Buy 5 quarts at $1.99 when you purchase this junk oil filter because we can't sell it otherwise) for my daily drivers, I settled on Pureone or Bosch Distance Plus (Since purolator bought them). Otherwise it would be Wix filters.

Time to change oil goes as long as 12 months and no longer. Scary to think "sludge" if it sits long enough in the summers in AZ or the winters in CO. Mileage is that magical number of 3000 miles IF I ever hit 3000 miles. The closest I have been to it, after a season of fun 'n shows, was 2300 miles.


Cuda Cody

I heard Purolator PureOne and Mobil 1 Oil filters are the same.  I trust both of them and have had great experience with using either of those filters.

Shane Kelley

I like these filters because the just look at home on a Mopar. They are Wix gold filters that have the correct logo on them and come from MoparDave. Before these I ran the Wix racing filters. My favorite oil for a flat tappet motor is Lucas Hot Rod & Classic 20/50 oil with high Zinc. Myself I prefer the heavier oil because it's usually hot weather when I drive the car and the thicker oil keeps the oil pressure up and the valve train quite. I did win a case of Driven oil that I'm going to try. Looks like a real high quality product. No 20/50 so I went with 15/50

Voodoo Child

Royal Purple HPS 10/40, high zinc, phosforus levels for flat tappet cams and Royal Purple filter.

Fern



Marc70challenger

Quote from: Roadman on July 24, 2017, 09:49:19 AM
               I use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50 for years. Plenty of zinc for flat tappets, about $6 a quart at any auto parts store. For filters I use K&N just because that's what Tim used (FHO) when he broke in the Hemi on the dyno. If Tim likes them, I'm in.    :rebelflag"

Same here. Or Wix race filter. VR1 in all muscle and not rods. Mobil 1 though for LS motored cars.

dougdel

i get the vr1 and the gold filters from my local napa.   :wrenching:

FSHTAIL

15-40 Rotella.     Previous owner swears by it and that's what has ran in it since he built it. 

Napa gold oil filters after reading some info on Fram on Bobistheoilguy.com. 

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

dodj

I go with NAPA Gold filter and Amzoil Z-rod in the Challenger
Fleetguard filter and Amzoil 5-40 in the Cummins.

Over the various forums I frequent, it seems that NAPA gold, Wix, Donaldson and Fleetguard have the best reps. Nobody, absolutely nobody, recommends Fram.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill