Main Menu

Looking for some advice on a cam for 383.

Started by 918Muscle, March 09, 2021, 07:45:35 AM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

918Muscle

I'm looking to see what cam you good folks would advise for me.

Disclaimer.......I'm learning about motors. So if I sound special or incorrect, that's why. I don't hide my ignorance, just trying to cure it.

The car that it is going into is a 1974 Dodge Challenger rallye with a 727 automatic transmission and a 3.23 rear end.

I have not built this current motor it came with my purchase of my 68 Dodge charger.

The motor is a 383 that is 60 over. With Keith black pistons. 440 stealth heads with 1.5 rockers. Forged crank. compression is believed to be 10 to 1 and currently comp cam 23-713-9 xtreme energy 242/248 prostreet cam.

A friend of mine that is helping me build a motor advised I go with a different cam as this is meant for pro street and will be very rough/extreme. My car is my weekend cruiser and grocery getter. I don't plan to take it to the tracks and race it.

There has been mention of using a comp cam 280 or 284 I believe.

I'm looking for the motor to give as much streetable power as possible but not shake every bolt loose (if that's possible).

If I left out any important or key features please let me know and I'll try and find the answers.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

DeathProofCuda

Stall converter speed and whether you plan to use headers or exhaust manifolds are other important details to consider.

Per Comps website the 280H cam works best for a car with 3.91+ gears and headers, so this is probably more cam than you need.  The operating range of both those Comp cams is higher than I would want for a grocery getter.

For an off the shelf grind, I'd probably be looking at something like this for your application.

https://www.lunatipower.com/factory-performance-hydraulic-flat-tappet-cam-chrysler-361-440-278-288.html

DeathProofCuda

Actually, this is the one I was looking for, a little more duration, a little more lift, and wider operating range.  Would work well with manifolds.

https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-hydraulic-flat-tappet-chrysler-361-440-262-268.html




918Muscle

I have headers, 750 Holly and I believe the stall converter is 2200.

DeathProofCuda

Looks like I missed the fact that your current cam (Comp 23-713-9) is a hydraulic roller.  The cams I recommended were flat tappet.


northerncuda2021

Following kinda going through same issue.  Thanks

Chryco Psycho

First you really need to know what type of cam you want , 4 types
- Hyd Flat tappet
- Hyd roller
- Solid flat tappet
- Solid roller
All have advantages & disadvantages , you have to decide what you want to live with
Flat tappets need special oil
Rollers can starve the roller idling too much such as the modern Hemi "tick"
Finding a suitable cam to match the combo is easy , Comp is not my favorite or even close to it they under perform in Mopar engines , there are far better choices Like Lunati , Engle or Hughes thattake advantage of the better Mopar design .


71383bee

I just re read your initial post.  If you have the KB 162 pistons they have a very low compression height and sit WAY down in the bore. If the block was not decked or heads milled to that height there is no way you are at 10:1 compression.   I had those in a 383 and it was anemic. After the second rebuild we found with 906 heads the engine at best was around 8:1 compression. I got a set of built 516 closed chamber heads and used the stock metal head gasket to make up compression. 

Basically don't just trust you have that ratio.  You need to do some homework to find out what you have and alter the build accordingly. This will also have a big affect on cam choice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

DeathProofCuda

Quote from: 71383bee on March 12, 2021, 06:23:28 AM
I just re read your initial post.  If you have the KB 162 pistons they have a very low compression height and sit WAY down in the bore. If the block was not decked or heads milled to that height there is no way you are at 10:1 compression.   I had those in a 383 and it was anemic. After the second rebuild we found with 906 heads the engine at best was around 8:1 compression. I got a set of built 516 closed chamber heads and used the stock metal head gasket to make up compression. 

Basically don't just trust you have that ratio.  You need to do some homework to find out what you have and alter the build accordingly. This will also have a big affect on cam choice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:iagree: Very good point.  Making guesses or believing factory rated compression ratios is bound to bite you in the a$$.  Confirm everything.