Oil Pump Priming - how stiff should it be?

[moparroy]

'74 Cuda 360 - freshly rebuilt original engine that has sat about 2 years now.
Getting ready for the initial break in start up so I thought I'd run another prime on the oil pump before starting.
I had primed the oil pump while it was on the engine stand some time ago - I recall getting 60 psi + on a test gauge from the sending unit port with my old battery drill around 600 rpm with no issues.
The only differences now is I have the sending unit installed (think I'll go back to test gauge for start up), there is fresh oil with start up comp cam additive (same 10W30 I had before) and there is a new / different oil filter on it (FRAM vs Delco).
The drill seems to struggle a lot more than I remember from the last time. Maybe I just had a stronger battery? Tried an air drill it struggles too - its lower rpm. I have a 1/2" hi torque low rpm air drill but its pretty heavy - not sure I want to rest that on the oil pump.
I have read its normal for drill to struggle when pressure builds (why don't I remember that from before?). Even read on Chevy small blocks drills have over heated.
I can turn the prime shaft by hand slowly.
Anything to worry about or is it just my old age / memory?

[Rich G.]

Yes , the drill will cry trying to turn the pump to make oil pressure. Not to worry.

[moparroy]

Thanks.
I hooked up the test gauage again and I get 50-75 psi before the drills stall.
Tried my better Rigid Li Ion cordless and it held 75 psi for maybe 20 -30 secs before it stopped. Must be some kind of over load protection on it as the battery was fresh and still good after.
So I need to find a drill that can sustain it for a good prime. How long will it take to get a good prime through to the top end?

[moparroy]

My corded craftsman drill (40+ yrs old but it was $120 back then) will sustain it without too much complaint - holds 80 psi.
Should I be able to see oil flow around the rocker shaft through the oil filler? I see traces but no flow. Maybe not without the shaft moving.

[pschlosser]

I think you can even remove the valve covers exposing the whole valve train and prime it without oil spilling off the head.  When priming, you want to see fresh oil oozing out all over the rocker arms.

[Mrbill426]

Yes it will take some effort once the pump starts moving oil.  You need to rotate the engine by hand, not starter, so you get oil pumping up as far as the rockers on BOTH heads.  Remove the valve covers so you can watch it.

[HP2]

I've always used a corded 1/2" drill for this and it loads it up plenty good.

[moparroy]

Thanks - but how long will it / should it take to appear on the rockers?

[Rich G.]

Turn the engine over a little to get the oil up to the rockers. Might only come up one side until you turn it.

[moparroy]

Ok got it - yes turning the engine was the key.

[Mrbill426]

Yes, turn the engine while running the priming drill; helps to have a buddy. 

Ok got it - yes turning the engine was the key.

[moparroy]

I turned the engine at 45 degree crank increments and that seemed to work. Seemed like each cylinder has a particular stroke when rockers get oil.

Fired her up later that day. Had I issue with a brand new ei module that I had tested, so it took a couple cranks. Then my tach did not work despite testing so I had to guess at the 2500 rpm for break in. Might have been a bit high but figured high better than low. And the valve covers puked oil all over...