Re-starting issue

[YellowThumper]

Re-reading your initial post. You have an Airgap manifold. I then suspect the fuel boiling is not the issue.
I also had similar issue years ago with ignition module.
Cold start was slow for it to kick  then ran fine. Warm start was even worse.
You noted a lot of new pieces but did not note module was changed. Would be a low cost test.

[mopar thunder]

Re-reading your initial post. You have an Airgap manifold. I then suspect the fuel boiling is not the issue.
I also had similar issue years ago with ignition module.
Cold start was slow for it to kick  then ran fine. Warm start was even worse.
You noted a lot of new pieces but did not note module was changed. Would be a low cost test.

That was replaced 3 years ago but it still could be bad. I have believe a spare one.

[mopar thunder]

I'm wondering..... She has a really weird set up (IMO) for the air cleaner. Again she has a Street Avenger 670 cfm carb. The air cleaner is a 3 inch but sits on a drop base but has a lift insert on the carb. I noticed the base area where the air cleaner would sit is lower than the adjustment screws for the bowls on the carb. And there isn't much space for the throttle kickdown linkage between the base she currently is using.  I could probably get a 1/2 or more carb spacer as an insulator but with the current set up I don't think I can get moe than a 1/4 inch one. Any thoughts?

[worthywads]

no start with ether rules out any fuel issue

[torredcuda]

I had a similar issue years back.
Spent hours troubleshooting fuel and carb with no luck.

Finally had an old time Mopar tech tell me to change the magnetic pickup in the distributor, yes they do go bad.

They work fine when cool then after being driven and getting warm with engine temp they would fail and not work when trying to restart until it cooled down.
If you have electronic ignition I would suggest swapping out the magnetic pickup first.

I had that problem also , took a while to figure out till someone mentions the pick up, been fine since.

[dodj]

Try my suggestion of re-starting after shutdown and that will eliminate the pick-up if it starts.

[Scooter]

Re-reading your initial post. You have an Airgap manifold. I then suspect the fuel boiling is not the issue.
I also had similar issue years ago with ignition module.
Cold start was slow for it to kick  then ran fine. Warm start was even worse.
You noted a lot of new pieces but did not note module was changed. Would be a low cost test.

Even with an air-gap the fuel can be boiling in the carb if it is mounted directly to the intake. While the separated runners keeps the oil off, once you shut down the aluminum intake is a great heatsink and will normalize to the temp of the rest of the block pretty quickly I suspect. I'd toss a 1/2 or 1 inch non metallic spacer under it if you have the room under the hood and see if it improves. I can hear the fuel boiling in my mild 360 after shutdown and my operating temp only exceeds 180 by a few degrees. I have a 625cfm Holley Demon with the non-metallic body that runs 20 degrees cooler too. The summer blend here in CA does not help things at all.

My2c.   

[GrandpaKevin]

Try my suggestion of re-starting after shutdown and that will eliminate the pick-up if it starts.

My magnetic pickup failure was intermittent, at first it would restart right away, sometimes it would take 5-10 minutes sitting after driving before it wouldn't start. It would always start when the engine was cooled down.
It got to the point I was afraid to drive it anywhere as getting it to start again was a 50-50 chance.

[mopar thunder]

Grandpa Kevin, my wife is at that point now. She is very upset and is afraid to drive it in fear of having to wait for hours to restart it.

[Racer57]

Racer57 - Thanks for the info. The car doesn't have headers and the fuel line is in the stock location along the frame then to the fuel pump and behind the alternator to the carb. Not to close to the block. It's such a simple system.

Thanks again everyone, process of elimination time. 

Mine has stock exhaust manifolds. I'm lucky enough to have a lift. After having problems, I got it up and felt the stainless fuel line where it first touches the frame. Major mistake and blistered finger tip. Thats when I got the insulation.

[cudabob496]

put some sheetmetal around your carb. I measured it and its 50 degreees cooler above the sheet metal. On my
850 dp, I put a 4 inch by 6 inch piece of sheetmetal under each bowl.  Just snugged the pieces up to the base of the carb.
Easy to bolt them down or make brackets to position and hold them in place.

[mopar thunder]

put some sheetmetal around your carb. I measured it and its 50 degreees cooler above the sheet metal. On my
850 dp, I put a 4 inch by 6 inch piece of sheetmetal under each bowl.  Just snugged the pieces up to the base of the carb.
Easy to bolt them down or make brackets to position and hold them in place.

Wow, thats a big difference. Definitely worth trying. Thanks!

[cudabob496]

I had issues like yours that was from fuel boiling out on my stock 383. I put a fiber spacer under the carb, routed the fuel line so that it did not touch any part of the engine and wrapped fuel line isolation from the carb to where the line made its turn to head towards the tank. That took care of the problem. 

I did the same two things and that took care of my starting troubles like yours also.
DEI Heat Sheath Protective Sleeve is what I wrapped the fuel lines with .

Also make sure fuel line is not getting blasted by hot air from radiator.  Home Depot flexible foam like black pipe insulation is great for
the fuel line. And I verified it does not burn.

[chargerdon]

my 66 charger with 383 has similar issue.   

Easy starting when cold, but after driving and hot.. if i go to restart within first 3-4 minutes no problem.   
if it sits for more than 40 mins, then pump once and it fires right up after a few seconds of cranking. 

Between 5 min to 40 mins to restart have to floor it to hold open the throttles and crank solid for 10-15 seconds and then she starts.   

Problem used to be even worse, until in put in a phenolic spacer, which helps...still, between 5-40 mins have to treat as flooded and crank it...   im sure it is flooding from boil out.   Blame the 10-15% ethanol which evaporates at lower temps than 100% gas. 

My 360 challenger is just the opposite.   After running in summer at full temp, if i shut it off it will restart easily if i try immediately.   But, let it sit for minute or longer and it will not start, until it then sits for at least 5 mins.   It has the Air-gap intake and edelbrock carb.    I think what happens with it, is that im running a 195 degree thermostat, and when i shut off the engine, the residual heat in the engine simply makes it too hot to start...  wait 5 min till it cools back off and all ok.