Rebuild or Replace 360 Engine in my 74 Cuda?

[steelcuda]

Let me say upfront that I am not a mechanic.   I don't have the space or time to do this myself, so I have a trusted mechanic at Perfection Automotive in VA doing the work. The question is do we do a tear down of the existing engine and fix whatever we find along the way or do we swap it out with a replacement?  The car is an L code 360 and the existing engine has been modified.  The block is matching numbers but the carb is new and the manifold (Edelbrock lp340) is not original. I've already replaced the kickdown with a cable system and I'm likely going to change the headers from long tube to shorties.

The engine has a distinct tick and they are guessing main bearings but they don't know  until they tear into it.

If it was your car, what would you do?


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[HP2]

Verify if the tick that is being heard is not a leaky exhaust gasket, collapsing lifter, or head oiling problem. The difference between a tick and a knock is subtle, but important.

So, to your question;a rebuild will put the car down for months while the engine is removed, dis-assembled, inspected, and then machined and re-assembled and re-installed. Depending on the integrity of your shop, it could be down all winter to a year or more.  An engine swap can be done in a few days if, again, you have a good shop.  Are either of those time frames important?

A rebuild  may be lower cost on parts, but higher on labor. A swap will be higher parts cost, lower on labor. If you swap you may want to keep the original block, which means sacrificing a core change, thus higher cost.  IMO, 73-74 matching numbers are much less of a draw than in the earlier years, but it may be worth a percentage more value to some since its an original 360 car.

[Spikedog08]

What do you plan to do with the car?  What are you wanting?  I personally would want to keep the original motor . . . I also had this decision to make and I choose to install a big black as I wanted to play with it some and not take a chance of ruining my original motor for my car.  I have a 73 cuda original 340 - 4 speed car.  The motor and trans sit in the garage and I do plan one day to put it back in and make it original.  But in the mean tome, I have a stroker 440 in there now just to play with.  I have no plans to sell my car as it was my first car I bought in 1982 so it is with me for the long run!   So the question again . . . what are you looking to do with your car? 

[1 Wild R/T]

Main bearings don't tick..... Main bearings make a heavy knock/clunk....  Rods knock/rattle....  Wrist pins have a distinct double knock, often the noise goes away when you pull the plug wire..... Lifters & exhaust "Tick"...... Before tearing it apart I'd put a little more effort into diagnosing what the noise is...... What part of Virginia are you in?  Likely there's someone here that can suggest another shop that might have more experience......

If you have to go into the engine L codes are pretty rare so it might be a good idea to keep the original engine....  Personally I'd rebuild it as a 408 but thats just how hotrodders think...

[303 Mopar]

   Diagnose the problem further before you set a plan.  If you are going to rebuild it, I would highly suggest stroking it to 408 ci.  I had one in my '71 Challenger is it was a whole lotta fun!   

[JS29]

I vote to keep the original!!! 

[HP_Cuda]

Definitely keep it original and stroke it!

[Chryco Psycho]

 I would look for a 87-92 360 LA roller block & build that into a 408 ci , mothball the original engine ,
I would also track down the tick , could be just a exhaust gasket leak or bad lifter
Main brgs don't make a ticking sound in my experience

[1 Wild R/T]

I would look for a 87-92 360 LA roller block & build that into a 408 ci , mothball the original engine ,
I would also track down the tick , could be just a exhaust gasket leak or bad lifter
Main brgs don't make a ticking sound in my experience

Assuming you need to go through the engine this is probably the smartest option.... 

[steelcuda]

I appreciate all of the detailed feedback and info.  This community is awesome.  I trust the shop that I have to diagnose the issue, but we will have to see what they say before I choose a path.  I agree with more diagnosing before I change out the entire thing. 

[RUNCHARGER]

I would do whatever it takes to keep the original engine block in your rare L-code 74. Those cars don't grow on trees.

[steelcuda]

Update:  Spoke with Dave over at Perfection Automotive this morning and we are going ahead with the rebuild, keeping as much original as possible.  Keep the block, get it bored, washed, and painted.  Replace what needs replacing and keep what is in good shape.  We're going to document the build so I'll start a new thread and share as it goes.

[jimynick]

Be an informed consumer as well. Have Dave show you the parts and what was causing the "tick" before you blindly have him rebuild your engine. Why does it need to be bored? Until he gets the heads and pan off this thing, he may not even know himself and if you bore the engine, about the only "old" internal parts you'll be reusing will be the crank and rods. Get him to give you a solid estimate of the costs here as you can buy rebuilt 360 short blocks, assembled, for $775 on Ebay with one click. I just don't want to see you get hosed here and I'd go (if actually needed) with one of those rebuilds, if he can't keep you in the same ballpark. At the end of the day, it's your car and your wallet. Just my 

[torredcuda]

As others have said could be as minor as an exhaust leak but if it does need a rebuild I `d just mothball the original engine and drop in a nice 408 stroker.

[1 Wild R/T]

I get the distinct impression steelcuda isn't listening.... He trusts his shop & thats fine.....    Some men you just can't reach. He'll just have another 7.8-1 C/R lazy pig engine.... 

Not the first, won't be the last...