Still Have Coolant Leak, Super Ticked, With Pics

[Daveh]

Hey guys,

Ok so as you all know I'm having trouble sealing the PS adjusting bolt.  Every time it keeps leaking antifreeze.  I've tried it 4 times using multiple bolts with thread sealant, with Teflon tape and sealant and no luck.  What happens is it seeps between the two brackets down around the water pump and then into the catch can that you see in the picture.  I've tried both a 3/8"X5"-16 and a 3/8"X5-1/2"-16 bolt with no luck.  As a last resort I dried it out for a 5th time and used the Right Stuff ( I know you said not to).  I let it dry for 24 hours filled it and put 8lbs of pressure on it and it leaked in about 2 hours.  I'm just at my whit's ends here and I'm trying to use nice language.

Now to add fuel to the fire under pressure in the 3rd picture you can see where I'm leaking more antifreeze down by the oil pan.  What the heck????

What do you guys suggest?  I'm sick of taking this thing apart.  HELP...

Thanks
Dave

[Cuda Cody]

Could it be coming from somewhere else up higher and leaking down to the that bolt?  Not saying that its, but just thinking out loud.

How about this.  With the bolt... put the sealant on the threads and seal the bracket, seal the washer, and seal the bolt head? 

[anlauto]

Throw some Stop Leak in the rad and drive it for awhile...

[Chryco Psycho]

What have you tried ?
In the past I have wrapped the bolt with teflon tape then coated it with liquid teflon
Locktite also has a thread sealer that is not teflon
you could try teflon coated with silicone also .

[PLY474]

I'm beginning to wonder if the threads are sealed fine, and the coolant is coming from the shank of the bolt instead.  In other words, perhaps the water pump gasket isn't sealed completely around the hole, and coolant is entering from there.  The water pump mounting face is thin in that area.  The mounting face surface could be scratched too. 

[PLY474]

I think I used Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant on both sides of the gasket with success.  I recall selecting it because it can be removed with (isopropyl alcohol from my memory) or lacquer thinner from the current spec.  https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/80063.pdf

[Daveh]

Neil, I've tried everything sealant with and without Teflon tape and different bolt lengths.  The timing cover and water pump are both new so I don't see any issues with that.  Maybe something happened with the gasket?  Here a few more pictures. 

Maybe I should pull the water pump and begin from scratch?  Very frustrated. 

[JonH]

I would be looking elsewhere as well. Possibly a porous or cracked water pump, or timing cover housing, leaking gasket or poor sealing surface?? You have sealed the threads sufficiently, so I would look at any and all, of the other possibilities...

[Chryco Psycho]

The  Gasket does not look great in the picture , kinda squeezed out

[Jim AAR]

I'm beginning to wonder if the threads are sealed fine, and the coolant is coming from the shank of the bolt instead.  In other words, perhaps the water pump gasket isn't sealed completely around the hole, and coolant is entering from there.  The water pump mounting face is thin in that area.  The mounting face surface could be scratched too.

Run a large flat file across the face of the timing case cover where the water pump mounts and see if you have any high spots and if so try to get it as level as you can without taking off too much, it may be getting around the gasket and into the bolt hole.

[Daveh]

So I used the felpro blue gasket but I see a Mr. Gasket gasket for more money.  Are they all pretty much the same?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mr.-gasket-timingcvrgsktset-790/11889283-P?searchTerm=timing%20cover%20gasket

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-water-pump-gasket-set-6584/5180511-P

[MoparLeo]

To eliminate the bolt, use a stud instead or make one. Just get a longer bolt, cut off the head and thread it for a nut. Have a pressure check done or borrow the tool. Pump it up to 16 lbs and watch. If you have access to some compressed air,  blow off all of the seams in the front cover area first. this will dry everything out. You could also use UV die that is sold at parts houses for finding fluid leaks. You add it to the system and either run the engine to get it to pressurize or use a hand pressure cap pump. Then you use a UV flashlight to see exactly where the leak is starting at..

[Daveh]

I can make a stud but since it's the PS adjusting stud/bolt it will see movement from time to time.  so I don't see the reason in the stud over the bolt?  Whatever sealant is used it will still move around during the adjustment. 

Also when I put on gaskets a always used a thin coat of RTV.  I've never used the Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant.  Is it better over the RTV? 

[anlauto]

Throw some Stop Leak in the rad and drive it for awhile...

[Katfish]

I would be looking elsewhere as well. Possibly a porous or cracked water pump, or timing cover housing, leaking gasket or poor sealing surface?? You have sealed the threads sufficiently, so I would look at any and all, of the other possibilities...

I agree with above, sounds like what you've done would seal the threads on the bolt.
Must be coming from elsewhere