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tail shaft removal

Started by mopar jack, September 28, 2018, 11:58:28 AM

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mopar jack

I have a leak at the tail shaft housing on a 727. Is this fixable in the car or should I pull tranny.

Chryco Psycho

#1
generally fixable in car , where is it leaking though , the gasket between the body & tailhousing or the rear seal
To remove the tailhousing you need to remove the crossmember & mount , the 6 bolts holding the housing on & there is a plate under the mount with 2 Phillps screws & a large C clip behind the plate

73_Cuda_4_Me

There are several leak points on the 727... Are you sure it's the tailshaft that is leaking?

There is an internal o-ring on a pivot shaft that fits flush with case at rear tailshaft housing, along with the tailshaft housing gasket Chryco is talking about, and there is the dipstick tube o-ring and the shift shaft seals on the driver's side... all of these can leak fluid that blows toward the back of tranny when driving, and usually ends up on the crossmember / tranny mount...

If you change output shaft seal, you should also replace the output shaft yoke bushing... inside rear tailshaft housing...

If you are pulling the tail housing, I'd suggest pulling tranny... the c-clip is a pain, and the parking pawl linkage is involved when pulling it and putting it  back together, and none is fun lying on your back (I don't have a lift)...

Just my  :alan2cents:
73 340 `Cuda 727 Auto on Column

BS23H3B


mopar jack

73 - cuda, thanks for the reply. I've rebuilt at least 6 727's but never pulled the tail shaft in the car. I just replaced the selector shaft seal yesterday and pulled the valve body to do it laying on my back. Old age is catching up me and as I struggled to get that damn parking pawl installed to get the valve body in. Years ago I would install shift kits in the car and pull and replace the valve body no problem. The tail shaft is leaking at the gasket flange near the lower right bolt, the bolts are tight and I have never had a leak in that area.

1 Wild R/T

Right where the rear band strut anchor pin is...... Doubt it's the tail shaft gasket.....  Raise the back of the car to get the fluid away from the area..... Clean it throughly & smear the sealant of your choice..... 

73_Cuda_4_Me

Just out of curiosity, which pan gasket are you using? I went with the Chrysler black one two years ago, and haven't had any problem. The gasket you speak of is a paper gasket - I got one with my tail-shaft bushing kit, so you might be able to loosen bolts, and put some black RTV sealant on the gasket around the outer edge, and tighten it back up?
73 340 `Cuda 727 Auto on Column

BS23H3B

mopar jack

Thanks for the pic Randy, I couldn't see the pin under the car lying on my back so I checked one of my spares in storage and yup I see the pin. So do you think some right stuff will fix it or maybe go nuclear and roll up some J-B weld and paste it in there.


mopar jack

73- cuda the tail shaft gasket is paper. For the pan I was using a black fiber type gasket (6 years) untill it appeared to fail so I installed a Mancini blue silicon with metal core gasket. I probably screwed that one  up because I tried to  torque the bolts to factory 150 inch pounds and ended up squishing and distorting it. I figured that caused the leaks so I planned to change the gasket and noticed that the selector/ shift shaft seal was leaking and decided to remove the pan and valve body to make the repairs. Next up the gasket is wet in different areas and leaking towards the back. I took a good look at the tail shaft and it appeared to be the lower right corner. Thanks to 1 wild R/T's pic I have narrowed down to the strut pin shaft.

1 Wild R/T

Right stuff is my preferred chemical... 

mopar jack

Thanks for the help everyone. Got the strut pin leak stopped and today I attacked the last little drip from the pan. I don't know why Chrysler stamped the pans with a notch in the outer rib but it causes it to be week. See attached pic and it as at a point with the largest gap between to fasteners. You can see where the pan bows a little. The bolts aren't even near proper torque spec. I thought this was a defect but I pulled a pan from storage and it's got the same round notch.

mopar jack

So today I took a piece of 3/4 angle iron and cut and drilled to add a little support and when I bolted it in the bow in the pan flattened out. So far no leak!


1 Wild R/T


71-440

Joe