Throtal Kickdown Linkage

[tparker]

I have an original 318 2 barrel car that I replaced with a 340 and a late model thermaquade in 1990. It has the original one piece kickdown linkage that originally was for the  318 with 904 transmission. I made that work somehow. But now I am trying to put it together with an edelbrock but the  distance is longer. I would think this should be a solved problem, but there isn't a lot of answers I can find. What did people do back in the day? I don't want to  convert to the multi-piece kickdown linkage and multiple bellhousings.....  or do I?  It seems overly complicated where a single rod is simple. Where  these two  setups?  I was  watching the Chrysler tech vid and it kinda sounded like it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsfI9cFFPpg&t=910s

Assuming I stay with with the single rod, what are the solutions people have went with? It seems like I can get a slightly longer piece of flat bar and "mill" out the slot and drill the hole at the other end. But I don't  have a mill. I could weld on an extra few inches to the end then drill an new hole. All this is a little error prone and I kinda like the idea of the 71 version that has a screw mechanism that provides a lot of adjustment. The problem is that the original arm won't work with my setup, but I could perhaps cut my linkage a bit and add a screw and some sort of nut that I could weld together.

Any ideas? I could use the lokar kickdown, but it seems overly  complicated and somewhat needlessly expensive. Thoughts?

These photos are random web photos and may not be 100% accurate. I'm not looking for original, but functional. My car is a bit off from original.

[Bullitt-]

Do you have the adapter for edelbrock? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1481?rrec=true
 This will not solve the kickdown issue but puts the OE stud in a better position.

 What I've seen many do is add a bolt/nut in the slot to move the contact point forward as seen in this photo

[tparker]

Yeah U have that adapter.  I was thinking about putting something  in the slot, but the front end of the slot wouldn't be long  enough for the throttle to come forward. Not sure it's exact purpose, but I think part of it is a safety feature  should  the linkage jam up while in the rearward position.

[Mr Cuda]

Nothing helps like a visual.
The 318 rod is too short and too low to really work on a 4bbl application.
A longer flat bar to the carb makes it work somewhat at wide open, but misses out on the part throttle progressive function.
I have a 360 2bbl on top of a 71-2 340  factory one piece assembly. Bare one is 318.
The 340 is higher, wider and more forward.
Plus the throttle cable attachment is forward.
 Sorry they are all upside down

[MoparLeo]

On the 2bbl to 4bbl conversion both of the kick down rods are too short because the primary throttle blade on the carb is farther forward than the 2 bbl.
 When you change to a high rise manifold the trans rod is too short again. You need an aftermarket manifold bracket to raise the throttle linkage to align with the carb properly. Geometry must be maintained.
This one of the most messed up parts of carb and manifold changes from stock.
Many people end up using the Lokar adapter linkage kits because they are adjustable to most any setup.
The proper kick down adjustment is covered in the Factory Service Manual. No Mickey Mouse bolt or nut spacers...
The kick down rod is adjusted to maintain a certain transmission fluid pressure inside the trans.
https://www.manciniracing.com/man318360en.html
Edelbrock makes the linkage adapters for their line of carbs when mounting on a Mopar.

Sorry. When you said you were changing to an Edelbrock I thought you were talking about a new manifold not a carburetor.
What is the reason for changing the Thermo-quad to an Edelbrock carb now ? The Thermo-quad was the best carb made.

[tparker]

Hmmm, guess I have limited options. I'll have to revaluate the lokar. I don't have a high rise manifold so that isn't a problem. But yeah, the AVS style carb is too far forward. I can't  recall how I had the thermoquad setup, but maybe it was never right. Seems I just need to "extend" the flat bracket that connects to the throttle by an inch or so.But maybe it effects the geometry a bit.

thanks all
Tom

[Skdmark]

@tparker

When I installed a Holly Sniper on my 318/904 with an Edelbrock ld4b intake the kickdown lever was about 2 inches short so I picked up a Holley 20-41 Ford  kickdown lever extension to fill the gap. All I needed to do was drill one Let F sized hole a little further back to make it work. The kickdown extension has two ears that I peened over to lightly clamp onto the kickdown lever. Maybe this helps.


See post 57 for pictures
https://forum.e-bodies.org/your-restoration-project-roseville-moparts/10/71-barracuda-ev2-h5xv/17032/45

[tparker]

@Skdmark that is cool. I was trying to  figure out how I could extend the linkage but couldn't come up with anything I liked. This seems perfect. hopefully I can find that bracket.

Thanks
Tom

[Jay Bee]

A couple pictures in my Post#2 as to what was done to my car.
From: 318 2 barrel, A904,  stock intake manifold.
To: 318 4 barrel (Holley 1850), A904, Edelbrock LD4B manifold.
 https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/lost-on-carb-input-needed/29785/msg324164#msg324164

[RCman]

I got rid of the linkage all together and went a with the BPE Kickdown kit 3350 and 3395 when I went to the Sniper. Works slick.
Part of it was my linkage was a bit messed up from a pervious owner trying to adapter, but I'm glad i went this route rather than messing with the rods anyway.

https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/3578/589
https://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/586/5334

[tparker]

@Jay Bee that is basically what I was thinking of doing. My throttle cable seems a little too far back as well, And I guess I could relocate mine in a similar fashion.

Thanks

[Jay Bee]

The only thing I'd like to alter is lowering the throttle return spring on that vertical extension. Right now my carb linkage hits it at WOT, changing that should be easy but no rush. This mod has worked fine since 2011.