Trying to Stay Cool - FIXED!!!!

[Cudajason]

New tool acquired!!!

Ran the car for a bit and no signs of combustion gases in the rad.

I let it run for a bit longer and will try again later. But i don't think that is it, unless things change when it gets hot???  I let it warm up to 180.

I tested the tester with exhaust gases, the fluid changed color as expected, so I know it works.

[YellowThumper]

Cool for that news.
Would really check to confirm the radiator is flowing thru all the tubes properly.
FYI also if you do want to go to larger 26" radiator, you can even with the smaller core support opening.
Did it years ago with mine. The same 2 drivers side mounting bolts you have are still used. Then add holes on passenger side and add spacers. I used a stack of washers.
Even though some of radiator is shrouded by core support it does work well.
My statement is that the core support opening (regardless of size) will flow more air thru it than the radiator ever could.
Air will be pushed to that area.
Factory shroud also works with this setup location.

[Katfish]

Cool for that news.
Would really check to confirm the radiator is flowing thru all the tubes properly.
FYI also if you do want to go to larger 26" radiator, you can even with the smaller core support opening.
Did it years ago with mine. The same 2 drivers side mounting bolts you have are still used. Then add holes on passenger side and add spacers. I used a stack of washers.
Even though some of radiator is shrouded by core support it does work well.
My statement is that the core support opening (regardless of size) will flow more air thru it than the radiator ever could.
Air will be pushed to that area.
Factory shroud also works with this setup location.

I did same thing, but used rubber grommets for spacers.
Made a world of difference

[Cudajason]

Yeah agreed, I really did not want to have to take the heads off, but now I am left wondering what the issue is.

I may just go with a new 26 in champion aluminum rad and electric fans. My concern is will all the crap floating around in the block kill the new rad.

[RUNCHARGER]

You've already run chemicals through it. Now what I would do is take off the hoses and thermostat, jam a garden hose into the spot where the thermostat lives and let it fly until the water flows clean. I would also do this to the isolated rad, it will let you know whether it is plugged (I think it is) or not. For the price of a chinesium rad I would probably just buy one, problem with them is fitting the factory rad shroud.

[Cudajason]

You've already run chemicals through it. Now what I would do is take off the hoses and thermostat, jam a garden hose into the spot where the thermostat lives and let it fly until the water flows clean. I would also do this to the isolated rad, it will let you know whether it is plugged (I think it is) or not. For the price of a chinesium rad I would probably just buy one, problem with them is fitting the factory rad shroud.

Yeah I am almost there....I am going to try the Evaporut ThermoCure, and see if that helps any more.  I flushed with Vinegar last year and it helped, but the coolant is dirty again.

I did check the rad last year.  Poured a 5 gallon bucket of water into the rad and it came out as fast as I could pour it in.  Same when flushing it, put the hose it the top full blast and it comes out the bottom hose as fast as it goes it.  The rad never filled up. It could have plugged up from flushing the block.

I am not worried about a factory shroud, so if I do go with an aluminum rad, I will just get an electric fan and shroud package at the same time.  Likely go with the thermostat and relay kit too.  All in it looks like $500.

[Chryco Psycho]

I almost every case I have found electric fans to be less effective than a clutch fan driven by the engine . FYI

[YellowThumper]

One other thing to check if you have not already done so is to get motor up to temp. While running IR temp check the upper and lower portions of radiator. To get the high and low of it.
Then take a temperature check of the lower outlet on water pump. Not the hose, the pump outlet. If flow is blocked you will see a similarly high temperature there. It would be much higher than radiator because flow would be stagnated. If near the outlet temp that is definitely a flow issue.

[Cudajason]

I almost every case I have found electric fans to be less effective than a clutch fan driven by the engine . FYI

Hmm interesting, I figured with the issues around attaching a factory shroud it would just be easier to go with an aluminum shroud and fan kit.

[Cudajason]

One other thing to check if you have not already done so is to get motor up to temp. While running IR temp check the upper and lower portions of radiator. To get the high and low of it.
Then take a temperature check of the lower outlet on water pump. Not the hose, the pump outlet. If flow is blocked you will see a similarly high temperature there. It would be much higher than radiator because flow would be stagnated. If near the outlet temp that is definitely a flow issue.

Thanks man, I will give that a try!

[dodj]

I may just go with a new 26 in champion aluminum rad and electric fans.

Don't go with electric fans. You are just adding another variable to the issue. And, as CP said...they suck. There are a few good ones out there but most are crap. You will also need to wire in relays for good electric fans because they will draw heavy current. IMO, a good electric fan is one that gets close to moving air as well as the factory style clutch fan.

[dodj]

Maybe this suggestion is a little extreme, but you could try moving your hood hinges so the back of the hood sits high and remove the splash shields from the inner fenders. This, in my thinking, will increase the air pressure difference across the rad resulting in more flow through the rad. If it works in this fashion, replace the rad. If there is little change, your block is still the issue.
Just me thinking out loud....Others may shoot holes in my theorizing though...

[Cudajason]

Maybe this suggestion is a little extreme, but you could try moving your hood hinges so the back of the hood sits high and remove the splash shields from the inner fenders. This, in my thinking, will increase the air pressure difference across the rad resulting in more flow through the rad. If it works in this fashion, replace the rad. If there is little change, your block is still the issue.
Just me thinking out loud....Others may shoot holes in my theorizing though...

so funny thing, the hood hinges are worn out, so the hood typically sits up a little at the back.  the splash shields never got reinstalled after some front end work, so basically I have already tried that!

I hear you guys on the electric fan. 

I guess I can fab up what ever is needed to install the factory 26in shroud.

@anlauto, did you say you can get a 26 in shroud at the local Mopar dealer?

[anlauto]

Yup the 70-71 26"  fan shroud is available through your local dealer for around $100 P2998326

[dodj]

Yup the 70-71 26"  fan shroud is available through your local dealer for around $100 P2998326

Thanks Alan. I think Ill order one of those.