Upgraded intake, cannot get carb in tune

[dodj]

And please continue with the long posts on your various tuning adventures. Am following with great interest.

I'll eat this popcorn until your next post.

[DeathProofCuda]

I am glad you are making progress !!
When you say it goes lean punching it at 200 I assume you are going to full throttle , if the launch is crisp at part throttle then I would be tuning the secondary  , no point in adding fuel at part throttle all the time if it si working well there .
Can you feel a problem where it goes lean just off idle before the power circuit starts or is it just a reading on the gauge , if it feels ok leave it alone , the power valve 2" under the idle vacuum In gear could help momentarily

Yes at 2000 its too the floor. It cuts out first then crashes in with the goods. Just off idle I can feel the hesitation. It seems like its just on the tip of good and bad but fluctuates so its very noticeable but giving just a tad more peddle or load, its good to go.

As you already suggested, I'd guess that you jumped too low going from 35 to 31 with the squirters.  I'd suggest stepping back up to a 33 and see if that helps.

[Chryco Psycho]

They only make 32 between

[DeathProofCuda]

They only make 32 between

@ Chryco Psycho, you are correct for Holley "branded" parts, but Quick Fuel offers the Holley-style squirters in a 33.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-21-33

The other nice thing about the Quick Fuel squirters is that they are sold individually, so you don't end up wasting a bunch of money on spare nozzles if you are running a vacuum secondary carb.

[Chryco Psycho]

Got it 

[Bluemonster71RT]

They only make 32 between

I actually just received a 33 and installed it today.

[DeathProofCuda]

They only make 32 between

I actually just received a 33 and installed it today.

Standing by for the report...

[Bluemonster71RT]

Strange day with updates. I put the #33 nozzle on yesterday. I took the car to work today. (Side note.. Everything is rich by about 1.5 points today. Idle, cruise, everything with only getting gas and changing that nozzle. I don't know if its the valve, the colder weather or if they changed the fuel blend for winter?) Back on topic- It was rich on the initial launch but goes away quick so that may be normal but I think that the #31 is probably correct. You'll see what I mean after this next bit. So it has enough fuel but it was still popping when I hit it hard. The only thing I can think of is the power valve. So I put the 6.5 back in. Pop is gone. I guess 3 thought patterns now available. 1. would be I can keep the 6.5 in and down jet maybe 1 or 2 sizes on the primary as the secondary looks and feels great. 2. put the 5.5 back in as I have 11 to 11.6 hg vacuum at idle and jet 2-4 sizes up but I'm not sure what will then happen when the valve opens with that much more. Probably crash all that extra fuel and go way rich again? 3. would be maybe go to a #6 power valve and delay fuel for just that .5 of vacuum? I mentioned in a prior post about doing the power valve 2 points down from idle vacuum. Would that not make the car always or mostly running on the power circuit though? Seems like that would just be a ton of wasted fuel mileage or a bandaid to proper tuning.

Even though this seems like a lot of tinkering, and it is, but where the car is now, has been the most fun driving I have had since I put it back on the road almost 5 years ago. It has way more useful power than last year and I was happy with that from the prior year. So In case anyone was wondering, this is fun and I'm trying to get max power and mileage out of it at the same time. I'm not in a "oh No" problem situation. I'm just learning and consulting my engine/carb tuning out loud with everyone so that it may help others too.             

[Chryco Psycho]

That is a big problem with Carbs , air pressure , altitude , the carb can't adjust , you spend all day getting the carb tweaked perfectly & the next day it is all out of whack again 

[Bluemonster71RT]

Another update. Sorry I missed the phone call.   Running out of good days to drive as snow is only a matter of time. Ill drive it until they spray that insta-rust pre-snow mixture on the roads. I'm trying to do all the things to make this carb work as best it can without having to change any of the bleeds. So in doing more research, I came across another article where they were talking about initial timing and lean mixtures. It stated that with a lean mixture just coming off idle and adding load, such as rolling out on first gear, you will need more advance to get things burning right.
They made mention of having quicker advance and be full advance by 3000 (depending on engine variables) I read a few years ago to be all in around 3600 so I set mine to be as close to that as I could. I think it was 3570ish. I also just read another article where it is recommended to be all in by 2700-2800. Sooooo, I changed to two light silver springs on the MSD distributor.  It's all in just under 2900. I am amazed at what that did for launch if nothing else. I always figured that there was something off with the clutch or the rear because it always felt like if something was stopping the car from rolling out easy like dragging brakes or something. Just this change just makes the car go. I can actually ride the clutch out and the car rolls easy forward. The initial throttle response is so crisp now. So I think that fixed one issue. I hope all I have to do now is re-jet the primaries up 4 since I went down 2 this a.m. and went back up to a 36 squirt. its way to lean now at cruise but the initial shot seems just right now. If that doesn't work Ill put a 9.0 power valve in and see if that helps out. If that doesn't, I'll, at that point have to put a wire in the bleeds and see if I have to buy some smaller ones.           

[Chryco Psycho]

I can try to call again , just got busy with other distractions sorry .
Glad you are still making gains with it , often installing a wire in the bleeds will tell you if changing them is worthwhile