What hedders for a small block....

[Matt13]

Hooker super comp hedders; any good? What are you guys running on your smal blocks and why?

[7212Mopar]

Like most folks using headers, I went with TTI long tube with 2.5" X pipe. Best finish and fit. Design to go above the center link.coating options, bungs for O2 sensors. Need mini starter.

I had Headman headers in the 80s. Headers was crushed in the first week due to one tube designed to go below the steering link.

[Smallblock340]

If I may ask: why specifically the Hooker Super Comp? Engine specs?
At the moment I am considering TTI headers for my 340. The 340 was dynood at 320HP w/stock 1972 exhaust manifolds. I am considering the TTI 1-5/8" Shorty Headers or the TTI 1-5/8 x 1-3/4" Full-Length Step Headers. Main criteria: fitting, quality and performance.
Like @7212Mopar said: the TTI's are designed to go above the steering link. What about the Super Comps? 

[chargerdon]

Im using Patriot long tube headers.   They go in above the steering link fairly easily and still leave room to take out or put in the starter.   

Their inexpensive and so far have held up well.   

Only thing i don't like is that they make it DIFFICULT tho doable to remove or install the numbers 5 and 7 spark plugs.   

They came with the car so no decision to make. 

[dodj]

Like 7212 said,  look for a design that goes over the tire rod/ centre link.  I too, had headers on my small block that went under the steering linkage and they were crushed early in life.
TTI are nice,  but for me they were too expensive when I was buying. If you have the $$,  go with tti.

[anlauto]

I've installed a few sets of TTI now with great results 

[Shane Kelley]

TTI are excellent. I have installed a few sets myself. Fit, finish and quality are all top notch are there are definitely no disappointments. They are more expensive than all the others but you get what you you pay for. Remember all the other header manufacturers make them for all makes and models so there is no effort to make them exceptionally well over one make or the other. All TTI does is Mopar so all their efforts and designs are Mopar specific. First 2 pics are TTI and you can see how nice they tuck up in the car. Next 2 pics is brand x on the same car. Another thing that's important is spark plug wire clearance on the drivers side. Whole lot more room with the TTI's.  Last 2 pics show this. When compared side by side the TTI is just a far superior header in so many aspects.

[torredcuda]

I`ve had my Super Comps on for 25 years and very happy with them. The pasenger side is dented from a broken engine mount and they need to sandblasted and recoated but otherwise held up great and clearance is good.

[Matt13]

I`ve had my Super Comps on for 25 years and very happy with them. The pasenger side is dented from a broken engine mount and they need to sandblasted and recoated but otherwise held up great and clearance is good.

Do they go over/above the center link?

[Shane Kelley]

These are 8 years old and I'm pretty happy with how the finish is holding up on the TTI's. 

[MOPAR MITCH]

I've had Hooker Super Comps, ceramic coated, since about 1986.  The coating has held up very well.  The ground clearance is OK, but could be better... my car sits low to the ground and I've hit a couple low tubes more than once.

The Hooker Super Comps #5115 clear the T/A longer fast-ratio pitman arm... important to me; the longer required idler arm (aka "fast ratio" as suppliers are calling them... simply a ~70 C-body idler arm)) also clears, but the passenger header tube near it needs a slight ding for clearance.  I don't know if the TTi headers clear the longer fast-ratio pitman arm, as well as the longer idler arm (C-body)... I've had different responses when I've asked here and there... even TTi can't answer me with a positive response (disappointing).

The Hooker Super Comps #5115 clear the mini-starter OK.. but its a bit tight to get your hands in there for the upper starter bolt.  They also go above all the steering linkage... which is desirable.

The biggest complaint I have with the Hooker Super Comp #5115 is that their head flange ports do NOT properly match the LA cylinder head's ports... and no gasket will properly seal it unless you modify/expand widen the flange sealing areas of the header.  Maybe my headers were not so good.. but I've had to use Extreme Heat JBWELD to putty up and file smooth those flange ports... so far, sealing up a-ok.

My next pair of replacement headers will most likely be TTi, but I'm very concerned about the longer fast ratio arms (T/A pitman arm and C-body idler arm) for clearance.  If I have to ding the headers a little, that's ok.

Also, for cars with automatic trans, the console linkage that comes straight down is a little bit close to the collector flange... clearance is minimal.. if not slightly touching the flange.  In contrast, I believe TTi has you flip the linkage at that point because it will hit their collector flange... i think their length of the collector flange is shorter than the Hooker's length... then the linkage may, as I see it, be hitting the floor ... and possibly not move/shift freely... especially with hard acceleration and the engine is torqueing up on the driver's side.

I want to buy a set of TTis .. especially for the ground clearance and overall fit, but the steering arms and trans linkage are issues I need to be certain about before making my decision.... maybe you, too?

[HP2]

Super Comp 5115 DO go over the steering linkage unlike the regular Comp headers and many other generic brands that wrap around it.

As Mopar Mitch mentioned, I had to do some modifications on the port flange. They seemed excessively thin to me, so I welded a bead around the thin areas to make it wider, then ground them flush with the factory welds.  Had a few others I had to build up in height to get them all consistent.  It was a fair amount of welding and grinding to get them all where I was happy. So perhaps that is a reflection  that Hooker's quality control is lacking. After my fire up and run in a couple weeks ago, I didn't hear any exhaust leaks, so we'll see how well they hold up.

Overall I'm very happy with the fit of the 5115s.  I did turn one bolt hole into a slot for extra room to get the bolt in place and I shortened one bolt a small amount to more easily fit behind a tube. Since my engine is lifted in the body, my ground clearance underneath actually seems pretty good. 4.25" at its lowest spot which is not bad consider the measurement to my front fender lip is something like 20".  Clearance around everything else seems okay. Access to plug 5 and 7 is a bit tight and I have sleeved those ignition wires with fiberglass heat sleeves.

I'd prefer to have used TTI step design headers, but they simply weren't in the budget at the time of the build. Since my Hookers are painted, I'm sure in a couple years they will look nasty and require removal for coating. I'll evaluate at that time to either coat them or swap for TTI. Of course a headers swap will require reducer mods to align. I'll have to see how motivated I am at that time.

[Shane Kelley]

The Hooker Super Comps #5115 clear the T/A longer fast-ratio pitman arm... important to me; the longer required idler arm (aka "fast ratio" as suppliers are calling them... simply a ~70 C-body idler arm)) also clears, but the passenger header tube near it needs a slight ding for clearance.  I don't know if the TTi headers clear the longer fast-ratio pitman arm, as well as the longer idler arm (C-body)... I've had different responses when I've asked here and there... even TTi can't answer me with a positive response (disappointing).

My next pair of replacement headers will most likely be TTi, but I'm very concerned about the longer fast ratio arms (T/A pitman arm and C-body idler arm) for clearance.  If I have to ding the headers a little, that's ok.

I want to buy a set of TTis .. especially for the ground clearance and overall fit, but the steering arms and trans linkage are issues I need to be certain about before making my decision.... maybe you, too?

The long arms clear my headers.  I'm running the Hotchkis (Pro Forged) arms and a tubular K Member so keep that in mind. I can't imagine any of that would make a difference and I never tried with stock K member.

[Scooter]

I recommend TTI... just installed a set of shorty's and I lovem.

No fitment or ground clearance issues any more.

Had a set of ceramic coated Hookers on it, thought so much of them and the fitment this is how I took them out:

[7212Mopar]

I would imagine if it can go in one piece you should be able to take it out the same.