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Exhaust for maximum ground clearance

Started by Scooter, April 18, 2020, 11:49:10 AM

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anlauto

I just put the exact same system on a 1971 Challenger 440.  The Tips I used were the stainless steel ones from PG Classics, they look the best in my opinion. I order the 2.5" ones but they are the same size as the pipe. So off the the exhaust place with a pipe and the tips to have them expanded just a bit to fit snug over the pipe. Also you'll need to shorten the pipe by about 3"

Of course, I just mentioned this incase you can't get your existing tips to work :D
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Scooter

Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on July 23, 2020, 10:45:23 AM
Hello Scooter... here's some recent experience I've had.. similar to your issues./

I've used Hooker 5115s headers... yes, a bit low, but my suspension is very stiff.. so to avoid diving (AX HSAX, HPDE)... and driven on the local roadways as well.   They've hit/bottomed at some bad roads... but not that bad.... had them on my car since 1985.  I've been using Flowmasters since that same time, dumped in front of my differential.

Fast forward to now.. 2020.. new SB engine, engine bay all redone.. very nice!  But, I'm going to reuse my old Hookers (discovering the need to work over the raised beaded sealing areas of the long gasket/head flange for better sealing.... Hooker should fix this on their design.

i intend to get a new set of TTis 'cause of the visual better ground clearance... every fraction of an inch matters!... perhaps in another 1-2 years from now.... along with new Flowmasters that i already have.

Those Schumacher motor mounts are a problem... I wanted something stiffer without going solid... because I'm using a Milodon Touring road race oil pan... and that was a hassle to fit inside the K-frame... requiring some minor cutting at the steering box area and the passenger motor mount area... and with unbelievable flex of rubber motor mounts... I didn't want the engine shifting in any way that would allow the new Milodon oil pan to hit the k-frame.   I discovered the fit was not correct of the Shcumacher mounts due to the dowel pin hitting the k-framed inner tube where the long bolt passes through... required filing that dowel down nearly 50% from its original size/shape.... done to my satisfaction.

NOTE:  I'm not sure, but Schumacher may be going out-of-business... they are not supplying Mancini or anyone else for many many past months.. almost 6-9 or more months.. as I was told by Mancini.   I wanted to purchase the Schumacher Torque strap.. been waiting for about 9+ months... Manicini told me they will start making their own brand... when????   so, I went back to my old reliable taped chain that I've used for about 30+ years.

I'd recommend some bigger torsion bars and stiffer shocks to prevent diving/hitting the ground, but maybe your new TTis will be much better....

Send/post pics ... I'm interested in the ground clearance.

MoPower to ya!


Thanks for the input Mitch.

I have a NOS set of motor mounts and will be shelving the Schumachers with this header swap. I will keep the poly lock mount on the driver side as it's in serviceable condition still. I believe you are correct they are going out of business or already are. 

Just installed a set of Hotchkikis leafs and lost another inch of ground clearance so I'll be scrambling to get all the clearance I am able as well. Took it out for a spin yesterday and the ride is much improved.. less dump truck like.

Planned ahead and if the mufflers are the new low spot with the TTI setup and I'm bottoming out, I ordered the muffler eliminator tubes and will relocate the mufflers to the OEM position up next to the fuel tank.

Will update with photos when able... on the hunt to borrow a cherry picker for this weekend. 

HP2

I've got the Hooker 5115 and the clearance wasn't bad. but I took another route to get even more clearance. I lifted the engine in the bay and then lowered the car around it. Engine only weighs 500#. Car weighs 3000. I'm around 4.25" at the lowest spot on the collectors.


Scooter

Laid hands on a cherry picker yesterday for the motor mount replacing so I'm green light go for new header install this weekend. Probably start taking the current Pypes setup off tonight. If the current Hooker Longtubes don't want to cooperate, I'm cutting them out with a sawzall...  ;)

Scooter

Install update, the New TTI Shorty's and complete exhaust is slung. Everything but the tailpipe tips are on the car. I short ordered 2 clamps because I did not purchase the tips from TTI. Looking to use the Pypes tips that were on the car. 

First things first, I removed the Mancini passenger side motor mount bracket and replaced with OEM part... amazing how easy that is with no exhaust in the way. Installed a new rubber mount as well.

Mancini mount bracket:


OEM mount bracket:


^^ Really nothing to add there... the OEM bracket just fits.

For reference here is a shot of the mount brackets side by side... Mancini on left. I did cut the stud on the new mount down so I could slip a ratcheting box end over it and tighten the nut installed:




Cut mount stud:



Visually the parts are identical. Was on time crunch so I did not take detailed measurements.

Left the driver side as is, the Mancini and poly lock fit well on that side and are in good condition.

New Header stuff in next post.. need to upload some photos.

Scooter

Video of new exhaust... excuse belt noise.. on my fix it list already.




Scooter

The old Hooker longtubes fought me coming out... I was trying to save to donate but in the end they came out in pieces.



Installation note. I did have to flip the shift linkage to above the shifter arm to eliminate interference with the header adapter tube. I thought this was just for the TTI longtubes but appears to be the case for the shortys too. Rubs a lil on the speedo cable.. but I'll get a clamp on that and move it away form the linkage.


Drivers side Before:


Drivers side after:


Passenger side before:


Passenger side after:


Will get some underside photos up next.



















Scooter

#52
Underside photos.

One thing I noticed was the X pipe has a bit of a downward turn at the inlet on the passenger side. Not sure if this is by design or not but it causes the passenger side to be about an inch lower than the driver side.


Side, the mufflers are really tucked up there well now. The edge of the hanger is actually the lowest point now.




Back, waiting for band clamps to install tips. Ordered last night.


Pretty happy with the results. The new Hotchiks leafs lowered the rear about an inch, but with the mufflers tucked up nicely now it's a non-issue. Ordered a set of QA1 TS901 Stocker Star Single Adjustable shocks for the rear to compliment the new leafs. Only issue I need to contend with now is tire clearance in the wheelwell.. pretty tight on passenger side. Might be fixable with new rims.. better backspacing?

MOPAR MITCH

"Installation note. I did have to flip the shift linkage to above the shifter arm to eliminate interference with the header adapter tube."

Question:  How does the shift linkage arm get turned over?  Isn't it a fixed/solid item... that it cannot be taken apart? I'm having some interference with it at the collect flange, but its OK... but i don't like the slight interference.

Also, i see your vertical shifter rod is flush at the bottom bracket... is that OK?  Shouldn't it have some further extension beyond the bracket, say.... maybe another 1/2" to 1" ?

Scooter

Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on July 29, 2020, 12:36:28 PM
"Installation note. I did have to flip the shift linkage to above the shifter arm to eliminate interference with the header adapter tube."

Question:  How does the shift linkage arm get turned over?  Isn't it a fixed/solid item... that it cannot be taken apart? I'm having some interference with it at the collect flange, but its OK... but i don't like the slight interference.

Also, i see your vertical shifter rod is flush at the bottom bracket... is that OK?  Shouldn't it have some further extension beyond the bracket, say.... maybe another 1/2" to 1" ?

It's not actually the linkage that gets flipped.. just the adjuster with the pin shown in the photo. Usually the pin is on the top, flipping that part so the pin is on the bottom gains the clearance.

On the shifter rod being flush, I've seen it flush and extending a bit through. Might have something to do with the rear transmission mount, I'm getting set to replace mine and will let you know if it brings the tranny up a bit.