Hello all,
My name is Alex, writing from sunny Cyprus island.
I have a 1970 dodge challenger bought about 6 years ago. So far, I didn`t do much quality work on it, except cut part of the rotten bits which were a lot!
The car has been converted to RHD by the previous owner, the roof cut out to become a red neck convertible, the engine and gearbox swapped with some mercedes ones.
Now, the car is in a proper garage for body work. I`m attaching some photos from the day i bought it till today and i`ll come back asking for help regarding some parts and upgrades.
Now, the car is sandblasted, roof structure repaired and reattached to the body and new AMD metal starts to go on it.
Most of the new parts needed immediately are in! Unfortunately, when it takes 4 months to have them delivered, we also get some damaged stuff.
All seats power washed and put into storage until new foam and covers is coming.
The car originally had a 318 and A904 gearbox which i purchased (period correct - same year and month). Can someone point to a detailed article on getting some power out of the 318?
Also, I`m looking for a complete brake pedal assembly, parking brake assembly and a complete disk brake conversion kit if anyone can help with some info on that.
I have a brake pedal assembly for an auto, but all the way in Canada shipping would probably be high.
Rarely do I agree with someone comes on here and says "they have a massive project" , but HOLY CRAP MAN !!!!...THAT'S A MASSIVE PROJECT :o :o :o
Welcome to our site, lots of great info and parts connections here, and you're commended on taking on such a project, it's great to see another one saved :worship: :worship: :clapping: :clapping: :twothumbsup:
Welcome to the site from Panama :wave:
That is a serious undertaking to repair that Challenger !! Awesome that you are willing to do it !
318s were designed to be anemic , just a reliable workhorse , , they are basically the same as the 340 with 22 less CI all because of the bore size so think 340 , you need forged flat top pistons but creating 10:1 compression & good heads preferably with closed chambers to create quench , the best production heads are the 87-92 302 or 308 castings , matched with a good cam & Intake & it will make some great power !
Another option to look at is a stroker kit , for similar cost to rebuilding the crank & rods + replacing pistons is to just buy a new kit , this will get you past 400 CI & provide better piston options for good compression , this would be my first choice building a 318 , add a 340 windage tray & select a good cam which I can help with to match the build .
Aftermarket heads would be a good choice as well , the W2 series heads are the best for power but hugely expensive , stay away from Eddy heads the quality is poor .
Just checking , Mancini lists only the Eddy head for LA engines , no other option not even W2 !! :Thud:
Indy doesn't even show pictures of their heads so you cannot see the combustion chamber shape.
There seems to be a huge hole in the market for a decent LA head !
Welcome from Canada. Good job on everything so far, I have full confidence you can do it judging by what has been done. 318's are a great engine, the fast way home is to turbocharge it but converting it to 1992 and up Magnum heads is a good way to make them efficient. I bought a new 1992 Dodge truck with a 318 Magnum and it was 3 seconds faster in the 1/4 mile than my 1986 318 Dodge truck was.
:welcome: :handshake:
Welcome from Canada! Wow that's a serious project! Hats off to you for tackling this one!
Welcome to the site.
Glad you came over here from the "other" site.
I was following your build for years and have been wondering about your progress since the site went bad.
Please keep us updated.
Good luck with sourcing the remaining parts necessary.
Quote from: Moprr on January 24, 2021, 07:25:53 AM
I have a brake pedal assembly for an auto, but all the way in Canada shipping would probably be high.
Maybe you can get a shipping quotation for Cyprus, Limassol 4042. Thank you!
Thank you all for welcoming.
I don`t see it as a VERY VERY complicated project as we are changing basically everything on it :)
Just sourced some more parts such as trunk lid, RT hood, rear valance, dashboard frame, overhead console, all OEM from UK so i`m saving some $$ on shipping but paying 3x for the parts :D
You should coordinate with the gentleman from Italy working on the 71 six pack Challenger. (Antonelli) I'm sure he's shipping items to that neck of the woods, too.
Quote from: R/T's 4 R/P on January 25, 2021, 08:15:24 AM
You should coordinate with the gentleman from Italy working on the 71 six pack Challenger. (Antonelli) I'm sure he's shipping items to that neck of the woods, too.
It`s all good, thanks. I pay about 700$ per 100kg so nothing too scary there.
The problem is to source everything i need and have them shipped all together
Here are pics of the pedal assembly I have
The brake pedal assembly you picture is correct for your car...you should be OK there
The above brake pedal assembly is for manual brakes, will need to be modified slightly if your plan includes factory power brakes :alan2cents:
Yep, just knock the two top studs out...modification complete.
Will need correct power brake firewall re-inforcement plate and pushrod
Inside of cabin there will be a pivot shaft necessary the booster rod connects to.
Ok, thanks guys. I`ll keep searching for the correct one that will not require any modifications or corrections. :)
I`ll check now on the fender tag, if the car had factory power brakes.
Edit: on the fender tag, i don`t see a power brake option...Just the power steering but i definitely want power brakes.
Hello all,
I need some help with couple of things.
1. I`m looking to order a complete disc brake conversion kit front and back, complete with the master cylinder, power brake system. The car originally had drum brakes front and back. Anyone able to advise on a good braking system that will not be a pain to install? Any additional suspension parts are welcome as I`m planning to change everything there too. Do i need to buy front disc brake spindles? If so, will they just replace the drum brake spindles or i need something else for that?
2. I need to start the engine rebuild. The engine is a 318, connected to a 904 transmission which also needs rebuilding. Can someone advise on Pistons, rods, etc and what`s the maximum size i can go with the pistons? (looking to increase the capacity as much as it`s still safe). Is there any complete rebuild kit on the market that is in good quality?
3. I need to change the complete front suspension and I`m thinking to get a QA1 complete kit with a K frame too but before dropping a lot of money on that, maybe someone knows any better solutions and maybe cheaper than the QA1?
4. Looking for a vintage air kit as the car didn`t have factory AC. The new firewall that is about to be installed, is the one for the AC cars but i`m still not sure what`s the correct system for me.
Updates on the car:
1. trunk floor is in
2. trunk extensions are in
3. wheel wells repaired
4. the whole roof frame is ready
Thank you all for the help and patience.
1) Honestly I would call Cass at Dr. Diff for the brake parts, he uses optimized factory stuff and it is all proven.
2) Overbore a max of .030 on the 318, other than that I don't know much about them, I would consider EngineQuest Magnum style heads (with earlier LA style intake bolt pattern) though as that will add life to a 318 and compliment better camshaft, intake system and exhaust. If cost and fuel efficiency isn't a factor a lot of people stroke them into a 390 but that's more involved and with a set of Engine Quest heads and other mods a 318 can be made to run pretty good.
3) A big part of being a Mopar car is the torsion bar suspension and I would optimize that by using bigger torsion bars, increasing caster using offset upper control arm bushings and bigger sway bars. Look stock but perform better.
4) The Vintage Air stuff is good although I personally have never installed one in an E-body. I used to sell lots of Vintage Air and never had a complaint about their product.
Hello from :newzealand:, I have brought home a couple of projects but the wife and neighbours would never have let me get your car near my shed. Good on you for saving another E Body, will follow this with interest. :bigthumb:
anyone knows if the dash core/frame is the same for 1970 vs. 1971-1974?
Quote from: BAM on January 31, 2021, 09:11:48 AM
anyone knows if the dash core/frame is the same for 1970 vs. 1971-1974?
YES..they are all the same from 1970 to 1974 Cuda or Challenger, don't matter
Welcome abd not to hijack but I have the brake pedal assembly I just removed from my 74
I have a few more parts since I'm removing my 904 for a 733
Just an opinion on the brakes. Rear disc are not necessary and just create more down the road problems. It is harder to get a good, hard pedal with the conversions. These cars are very nose heavy and the front brakes do approximately 70 % of the braking. The rear are more than adequate. Best to use as close to factory parts as you can, especially because of your location.
https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/#post-1085245451
:welcome:from Utah. Do you plan on converting it back to LH drive? Nice progress BTW.
Absolutely
So I guess there is no law determining what side of the car the steering wheel HAS to be on ? Then why would the car(s) be converted in the first place ?
The car was converted back in 1974 because it was owned by a lady which was not very comfortable driving a LHD on the wrong side of the road.
The car suffered a lot of modification typical of the early 70s on a tiny island...
What would you guys choose from the 2 below? Or is it better just to go ahead and redo the 318 i already have?
#2, not sure what your final cost would be with shipping and fees compared to what you can do local. I like local but it depends if you have a good machine shop near you and what parts you might need. If you just want a 318 and you have pickup trucks local I would look for a 92, 318 Magnum in a pickup and convert it's intake manifold to one to use a Holley sniper injection system and find a car oil pan for it.
Anyone used the door panels from OER? any good?
Country/Region of Manufacture: TAIWAN
Brand: OER
Manufacturer Part Number: ME857100
CS-SKU: 437:ME857100
Also, any experience with https://shoptntparts.com/ ? I see everything is quite expensive on their site but probably good quality stuff.
:wrenching:
Seeing some new metal on the car, really keeps me going
guys, i`m sorry if i`m getting annoying but i need your expert advices on some stuff:
1. will this fit my car, considering i`m changing the firewall with a new one for A/C cars: Vintage Air 574074-EDZ - Vintage Air Gen-IV SureFit Systems Evaporator Kits
2. Anyone having a brake pedal assembly for 1970 with power brakes?
3. Anyone having a emergency brake pedal assembly for 1970?
4. Can someone advise on a complete list of parts for the front and rear suspension?
5. can someone advise on a complete disc brake conversion kit (some good quality brand)
Anyone selling 2 front fenders and willing to ship them to Cyprus? I don`t even care if they are reproduction in NEW quality and you make something on top.
I need a recommendation for a dashboard, Seat foams, Seat covers, Center console, Door Panels, Carpet, etc.
I did loads of research on everything but having zero experience on restorations or any mechanics, I need some more opinions from people that know what they are talking about.
Thank you!
With all you require it would almost be worth it to have an entire shell shipped over there to disassemble and discard the remaining carcass.
Edit...
Your #1 question appears to be the correct air setup for factory air firewall. With standard guage dash. Not Rallye dash
:looking good :australia:
Thanks YellowThumper.
It appears that my original gas tank has some vents opposite the filler hole. I`m trying to find a replacement on Summitracing.com but it seems that all of them will have the filler hole on the wrong side somehow and none of them having those vents.
Do i actually need a vented gas tank? if Yes, anyone knows the part number for it?
Opposite the filler will be your fuel level guage and outlet to the fuel feed.
The venting changed year to year and even a bit from state to state requirements.
Yes venting is required.
You could omit the tank vent by using a vented filler cap.
There are always the 50/50% issue of good and bad.
Good is it is easy way for venting.
Bad is fuel smell in garage when parked.
Other issue is the possibility of fuel slosh that can ruin exterior paint.
Quote from: YellowThumper on February 09, 2021, 02:18:11 PM
Opposite the filler will be your fuel level guage and outlet to the fuel feed.
The venting changed year to year and even a bit from state to state requirements.
Yes venting is required.
You could omit the tank vent by using a vented filler cap.
There are always the 50/50% issue of good and bad.
Good is it is easy way for venting.
Bad is fuel smell in garage when parked.
Other issue is the possibility of fuel slosh that can ruin exterior paint.
Thank you for the above info. So there are 3-4 little tubes. One for the fuel level gauge, one for the venting and what are the rest for? :) The car is manufactured on the 6th of October 1969 if it makes any difference.
Also, could you point out a correct gas tank on summitracing.com that would fit and be what i need?
Much appreciated!
I vented my gas tank through a carbon canister that's mounted in the passenger side wheel well against the core support (70 Challenger). There's a vacuum actuated valve that opens the canister to a carb port once the engine picks up speed. I'm using a FiTech EFI so the computer adjusts the fuel mix for the added gas vapors when they are there.
There's no gas smell in the garage and all the hardware is out of sight unless someone makes a point of looking up in the wheel well. I only have about 500 miles on the car but so far it seems to be working well.
Is the little "button" on the steering column for tilting or what does it do?
Quote from: BAM on February 12, 2021, 07:45:30 AM
Is the little "button" on the steering column for tilting or what does it do?
That's NOT an E Body steering column. :alan2cents:
I would think that button controls the emergency flashers :thinking:
Quote from: anlauto on February 12, 2021, 07:49:42 AM
Quote from: BAM on February 12, 2021, 07:45:30 AM
Is the little "button" on the steering column for tilting or what does it do?
That's NOT an E Body steering column. :alan2cents:
I would think that button controls the emergency flashers :thinking:
There goes another 5-600$ :dunno:
Thanks Alan for the info!
I feel my Challenger is mostly an old Mercedes hahaha
Can you guys advise what year is this engine? I'm starting to order parts for it and I'm trying to get them right (zero mechanical skills here 😀)
I found a website where someone was building a 318 to 400 bhp. I read the whole thing but I seriously don't understand what's what. I will share the link here and maybe someone can help me a little bit to locate those parts or part numbers or something
0B tells me 1970 Hamtramic, Michigan.
The block casting date (could be 1969) will be on the other side of the engine, but the VIN tells us it came from a 1970 vehicle
Thank you guys!
Anyone here tried this: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0409-318-engine-build/
If so, could anyone indicate the actual parts that will go with my engine? I know is a lot to ask but i`m afraid i will start ordering a bunch of parts, wait for 1-2 months to have them delivered and if something is not right, i`ll have to wait another 1-2 months to get what i need :)
I`m looking to change most internals, except the crankshaft. Shall i try sourcing some magnum heads? As i understood, those will not need any modifying compared to the 340 ones.
Big dilemma here :clueless:
Could you guys advise if this steering column is the correct one for my car and if is worth the money?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Steering-Column-1970-E-Body-BARRACUDA-CHALLENGER-70-CUDA-P-S/203260052878
How about this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cuda-Steering-Column-Assembly-4-Speed-Manual-AT-Console-Wheel-1970-1974-E-Body/303739743854
Or this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cuda-Steering-Column-Assembly-4-Speed-Manual-Auto-1970-1974-E-Body-Original/284023433992
Found one more but it seems that the mounting bracket is not a challenger one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1974-Mopar-E-Body-Challenge-Barracuda-Steering-Wheel-Column-Shaft-Ass-sw5-/233264998069?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
The last one is the wrong year, At leased the first one was refurbished. :alan2cents:
HOLY CRAP!
The last column I bought was 50 bucks....about 5-6 years ago.
Are those prices reasonable now?
Isn't that VERY overpriced? I mean I'm sure i can find here on the forum a column for like 100$.
I have this option for 200$ can anyone suggest which one i should pick?
I would pick the complete one with the mounting plate. 1970 is a ONE YEAR only steering column, harder to find = more money :bigmoney:
Quote from: anlauto on February 24, 2021, 01:01:24 PM
I would pick the complete one with the mounting plate. 1970 is a ONE YEAR only steering column, harder to find = more money :bigmoney:
Hey Alan, thanks again for the help. I guess you are referring to my last post, the one with the photos included?
If so, thank you, I will definitely follow your advice
I would buy this one...
And the floor is out. :yes:
Good mornin all!
I`m the proud uncle of a baby girl!!! :banana:
Back to the car, question:
Is a Cuda/Barracuda door skin the same with the Challenger one? I`m having difficulties to find AMD door skins anywhere in stock and i found a paid on ebay but the seller is advertising as being for a Cuda :thankyou:
Quote from: BAM on February 26, 2021, 11:24:18 PM
Good mornin all!
I`m the proud uncle of a baby girl!!! :banana:
Back to the car, question:
Is a Cuda/Barracuda door skin the same with the Challenger one? I`m having difficulties to find AMD door skins anywhere in stock and i found a paid on ebay but the seller is advertising as being for a Cuda :thankyou:
The exterior door skin of a Cuda is TOTALLY different then the exterior door skin of a Challenger.
Quote from: BAM on February 24, 2021, 11:15:53 PM
And the floor is out. :yes:
I think I read somewhere that you need to transfer the square seat bracket reinforcements to the replacement floors?
The new floor comes with the reinforcements (i think)
Even the K member is butchered in this car... can someone suggest a power steering set for my car? I basically need everything there and a whole suspension set...
Hello all,
2 questions for today:
1. What size of intake and exhaust valves do i need for the little 318 - keeping it stock
2. My valve covers have a total of 3 large holes (guess 1 for filling it up with oil and the other 2 are breeders). I was looking for a set of nice valve covers from Edelbrock but i don`t see any with the 3 holes :brainiac:
Can someone help please? A link to some nice covers on summitracing.com that would fit my engine, will be greatly appreciated
Typically a stock 318 has intake valves of 1.78" and exhaust of 1.5" per the service manual.
Double check which heads you actually have and make sure they haven't been modified.
Either go with the stock style stamped steel AMD or the die cast aluminum from Summit.
The die cast Summit ones look similar to the Mopar Performance ones. I have a 383 with the die cast Mopar Performance covers and was able to install the 2 breathers on it.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?N=filter-options%3Ain-stock%2Bpart-type%3Avalve-covers%2Bbrand%3Asummit-racing_auto-metal-direct&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=318%20valve%20cover
Apparently, i need a bigger daily driver too...
Hello guys,
I have another question. Was there a bracket welded on the floor pan that was supposed to hold the driveshaft somehow? on the old panel, there are brackets but the new AMD one does not include those. If there are and must be purchased separately and welded, does anyone have a part number for 1970 challenger with a 318 and A904 transmission?
Also, the new radiator support is being installed today, the doors will be reskinned next week... Having issues with the driver side rocker panel from CariD meaning they didn`t ship it and are not willing to ship... the passenger side is already installed and looking good.
Also, the fenders are not gonna be delivered because the shipper decided are too big...paid like 1500 USD shipping so they should bring them swimming...
If anyone can help with a pair of fenders and being able to ship overseas, i would be forever grateful :veryexcited:
Do mean hold the transmission ?
I'm not sure. The guy at the garage showed me some small brackets that were holding the actual driveshaft. I'll try to find some photo for reference.
It's some small brackets that this would kind of screw on. It might be just some more butchering of this car as the driveshaft was shorten and modified anyway
On an E Body the driveshaft travels directly from the slip joint in the transmission to the yoke of the differential. There is NOTHING supporting the driveshaft. The transmission is supported by the cross member I posted earlier.....that's it. :alan2cents:
Thank you! All clear now
What's the maximum wheels and tires size i can go for, without any more cutting/welding. I'm also looking to lower the car a little bit 3-7cm
Good morning!
Considering my K Member is not safe to use, would you recommend the QA1 one? Also, if i switch to the QA1, will I have to buy the whole tubular kit or i will be able to use standard suspension/braking/steering parts with it?
Hey guys. Does this look right as a fitment? I don't think that bump should be there...
Can someone advise if any mistake is spotted?
The factory cars have a seem there that is typically filled with lead.
Quote from: anlauto on March 27, 2021, 04:22:26 AM
The factory cars have a seem there that is typically filled with lead.
This being a reproduction AMD roof skin, the part circled by me, sits about 1cm higher and there doesn't seem to be any seam to fill. Just from the photo, would you say that the roof skin is installed correctly?
For possible wheel and tire combos, I'd suggest you review this thread:
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/e-body-tire-sizes-what-fits-whats-too-big-what-looks-good/4016/
Quote from: BAM on March 27, 2021, 04:34:46 AM
Quote from: anlauto on March 27, 2021, 04:22:26 AM
The factory cars have a seem there that is typically filled with lead.
This being a reproduction AMD roof skin, the part circled by me, sits about 1cm higher and there doesn't seem to be any seam to fill. Just from the photo, would you say that the roof skin is installed correctly?
Answer to your question is no that does not appear correct.
The transition from roof to A pillar is smooth.
It should not step up. I suspect the step down should tuck under the existing A pillar surface.
Here are a couple pics of mine. All factory original. Including the factory poor leading.
So the new door skins are on. Driver side is from AMD, passenger side is Goodmark. Both fit absolutely perfect! Quarter panels, roof skin, deck lid, etc are screwed in and almost ready to be welded - Tiny adjustments to be done so that everything will line up perfectly.
I`m still in need of front fenders which are ordered for the 3rd time. This time, from Jegs which has them on backorder from AMD (on AMD website, they are in stock so i don`t really understand). Also, this week, i should get the trunk lid, dashboard, front and rear valances, overhead console, the inside ornament for the rear SE window, etc etc
The engine is almost ready, gearbox is next. I received the QA1 K frame which will go in as soon as i get the rest of the front suspension and hopefully, we can go to the paint shop in the next 2 weeks :)
Didn`t decide about the color just yet but i think i`ll go for the plum crazy with the black vinyl roof or maybe the B5 Bright blue with the black top...not sure just yet.
Seat foams, steering column, steering wheel, the whole steering linkage and other bits and pieces are also on the way. The rest of the interior will have to wait for a while as I`m running out of $$$ for everything else. I will probably start ordering stuff slowly and once i have everything i need, i will finalize the project (end of this year)
I will slowly start restoring the chrome parts myself and anything else i can do inhouse :bradsthumb:
This project is really coming along at a feverish pace...that's awesome :twothumbsup:
Great progress. I think we have to ship our cars overseas if we want the bodywork done in a quick manner.
lot of efforts for this Challenger...great work....
Sent you a private message
Is there a cardboard or fiberglass headliner that my car should have or it's just insulation and the leather headliner with the bows? How does the overhead console mounts?
:notsure:
SE cars all had the fiber board roof & the console bolted to it , I believe someone finally got an original to make a mold from & is reproducing a replacement part , but I am not sure who that is .
They wanted mine to make a mold from but I figured if something happened to mine or it didn't get returned I would have been in a bad position not having one .
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 08, 2021, 09:34:44 PM
SE cars all had the fiber board roof & the console bolted to it , I believe someone finally got an original to make a mold from & is reproducing a replacement part , but I am not sure who that is .
They wanted mine to make a mold from but I figured if something happened to mine or it didn't get returned I would have been in a bad position not having one .
It's this guy making them but they are not responsive at all
https://www.seheadliners.com/
I sent them an email about 2 weeks ago asking for prices and shipping quotation but no reply so far... I'll try calling them next week. Meanwhile, the car has most of the glass in (windshield on the way from summit). Doors are closing like a brand new car, all panels line up perfectly, fenders to be here in about 1 month...
Old original fenders were mounted for alignment with the doors and everything else.
In 2 weeks, the car should be ready for paint but I'll wait for the fenders so i get it done all together.
I have seen today for the 1st time the rear RT valance with cutouts which are HUGE... I wonder what size exhaust tips do i have to fit in there...
Are you going back to the original blue colour, or something different ?
Purple is really popular, at least in North America, the blue is real nice if you get the colour right, it really pops in the sun, and you don't see as many around :twothumbsup:
Do you have the small SE rear window, fibreglass plug, trim and inside window molding as well as the upper console, bezel, lights etc? If not I would suggest making it a normal rear window and normal non SE headliner. Much less complicated and easier/much cheaper to do the headliner.
I did acquire the overhead console and the inside rear window trim and i have the plug and small window original to the car. The SE trim actually makes me love this car even more so I'll definitely keep going that way.
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) i think I'll eventually go with the original blue and black vinyl roof if I'll manage to find the paint code
B5 is bright blue metallic & there are at least 3 different versions , the first letter determines the year it was created , so you get EB5 & GB5 which are different colors , Personally I would look at B7 blue which is a rare & very cool color & is darker than the B5
Quote from: BAM on April 10, 2021, 11:28:02 AM
I did acquire the overhead console and the inside rear window trim and i have the plug and small window original to the car. The SE trim actually makes me love this car even more so I'll definitely keep going that way.
:iagree: Stay with the SE! Lots of SE owners on here that can help if you get stuck.
Why do all girlfriends hate boxes? There are always nice things inside... :dunno:
Can someone share a photo of the place where the oil filter mounts on a 318? Apparently, there is something missing on my block because there is only a small threaded hole which i guess it needs some sort of adaptor :notsure:
Looks like this. There is a gasket that goes under it and the threaded part goes into the block holding the plate in place. The other end is threaded for the oil filter.
Borrowed from another thread....
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 11, 2021, 09:37:28 AM
B5 is bright blue metallic & there are at least 3 different versions , the first letter determines the year it was created , so you get EB5 & GB5 which are different colors , Personally I would look at B7 blue which is a rare & very cool color & is darker than the B5
I was thinking the same thing - B7 with a white vinyl top would be a knockout!
https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-269886/1970-dodge-hemi-challenger-rt-se/
Quote from: Shane Kelley on April 14, 2021, 05:32:37 AM
Looks like this. There is a gasket that goes under it and the threaded part goes into the block holding the plate in place. The other end is threaded for the oil filter.
Any prt number or indication of where i can find this?
As update, just received the steering column, steering wheel and other miscellaneous engine a d gearbox parts. Still waiting on fenders from Jegs...
Mancini Racing has everything you need.
https://www.manciniracing.com/oilfilad.html
Quote from: Shane Kelley on April 15, 2021, 06:42:03 AM
Mancini Racing has everything you need.
https://www.manciniracing.com/oilfilad.html
Ordered. Thanks for helping
Started stripping the seats so i can have the frames sandblasted and painted. Found bits of the build sheet under the rear seat bottom but that turned into dust with every touch. Interesting to see that the original upholstery was still under the ugly "restoration" and that is very solid and would clean perfectly if not cut...
Apparently, the rear bottom frame is far too gone to worth fixing so I'm after a new/used one...
is there anyone reproducing the rear seat foams? Got the front ones but didn't find for the rear
I don't think anyone is making rear seat foams. Your either going have to patch up what up got or maybe find a good used rear seat for what you need.
The lower rear seat replacement padding kit that Legendary Interiors sells uses layers of cotton covered with muslin which is hog ringed to the frame . I couldn't get the padding to fit correctly around the transmission hump so I ended up paying a local upholstery shop to do it - they shaped some foam to make it. My wife and I were able to do the other parts of the seats (front and rear), but we found the lower rear to be a pain.
Guys, i need your help again. I need to order connecting rods for the little 318 so we can finalize but i don`t seem to find any stock ones and not planning to pay 600+ for a "racing" set. Can anyone advise where can i find those stock ones?
The reason for looking to change, is that one of the connecting rods is bent.
Maybe you can help with this one also
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) ?
jamsionline.com has them for $30 each or a complete set for $199.00 reconditioned.
That's an interesting question, I was going to suggest RockAuto or a place like that, but they seem to have pistons, bearings etc...but no rods....
:thinking:
Quote from: anlauto on April 19, 2021, 10:35:24 AM
That's an interesting question, I was going to suggest RockAuto or a place like that, but they seem to have pistons, bearings etc...but no rods....
:thinking:
True that. It seems to be hard to find...
For common small block parts, like one or two 318 rods, you can always post a wanted ad on FABO.
Hello guys,
We have installed a new radiator support on the challenger which is bigger than the original one. Can you please recommend a radiator to work with my little 318 in a very hot weather? The car will have AC if that makes a difference
Body work nearly done! waiting to meet the guy that will do the paint job and if we agree on the price, it will be a marathon to get everything done.
The used parts which were sold as "ACE" condition, needed quite a bit of work but it is what it is.
Fenders ordered for the 4th time as JEGS claimed FedEX won`t take them, this after waiting for 2 months for them to contact me. FedEX is doing sea freight shipments but whatever. Ordered from themoparshop.com as Ed was always helpful. Will have to wait another 45-60 days for delivery
Is there something like huge "DODGE" letters that go on the hood? I feel like those holes are for something very large :)
Yes, individual letters.
https://dantesparts.com/i-30499964-mopar-19701972-1974-challenger-dodge-hood-letters.html
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 10, 2021, 09:04:24 AM
Yes, individual letters.
https://dantesparts.com/i-30499964-mopar-19701972-1974-challenger-dodge-hood-letters.html
I think I`ll just cover those holes. I hate the look of those large DODGE letters. I mean it just looks weird...
Quote from: BAM on May 10, 2021, 11:31:58 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 10, 2021, 09:04:24 AM
Yes, individual letters.
https://dantesparts.com/i-30499964-mopar-19701972-1974-challenger-dodge-hood-letters.html
I think I`ll just cover those holes. I hate the look of those large DODGE letters. I mean it just looks weird...
Those are not the right ones, they are HUGE :rubeyes: What are they off of a Van or something ?
Quote from: anlauto on May 11, 2021, 04:29:53 AM
Quote from: BAM on May 10, 2021, 11:31:58 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 10, 2021, 09:04:24 AM
Yes, individual letters.
https://dantesparts.com/i-30499964-mopar-19701972-1974-challenger-dodge-hood-letters.html
I think I`ll just cover those holes. I hate the look of those large DODGE letters. I mean it just looks weird...
Those are not the right ones, they are HUGE :rubeyes: What are they off of a Van or something ?
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) Don`t know. Is a friend of mine, doing up a challenger, insisting that those are correct for 1970 :) Those are hideous and i rather just weld up the holes and keep everything clean.
Better?
Hello guys,
Long time to post anything here. We are running into another problem, with the engine this time. Well, it`s all ready to reassemble but, the headgasket ordered from rockauto, has it`s bore way larger than the cylinder bore.
Cylinder bore is 99mm
old head gasket that came with the engine is 102mm bore
the new gasket is 106mm bore which looks to leave too much room (see photo attached).
Also, the flywheel is missing and I`m not sure which one i need to order for this 318 that comes with an auto A904 transmission - Please help here too
Thank you all - will get back with photos of the car when the fenders will arrive (19th July) which will actually finalize the bodywork
Quote from: BAM on June 25, 2021, 09:34:45 AM
Also, the flywheel is missing and I`m not sure which one i need to order for this 318 that comes with an auto A904 transmission - Please help here too
You're looking for a flexplate not a fly wheel for your 318/904 set up. They are available at RockAuto :twothumbsup:
........and your A904 will need a torque convertor as well of course
Quote from: anlauto on June 25, 2021, 09:50:16 AM
Quote from: BAM on June 25, 2021, 09:34:45 AM
Also, the flywheel is missing and I`m not sure which one i need to order for this 318 that comes with an auto A904 transmission - Please help here too
You're looking for a flexplate not a fly wheel for your 318/904 set up. They are available at RockAuto :twothumbsup:
........and your A904 will need a torque convertor as well of course
Thank you
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) Any tips for the head gasket dilemma?
I'll leave that gasket question up to the engine builders on the site :twothumbsup:
Headgaskets should be fine. They are generic and fit the larger 340 bore as well as your 318.
I don't think you'll find any that go right to the edge. They leave a bit so the engines can be overbored .060 and in the A-engine the 340 ones take the same headgaskets as your smaller bore 318. You're fine with those ones. A 318 bore is 3.90, a .060 overbored 340 is 4.1.
Hello All,
Can someone advise on where can i find and order this 6 bolts that connect the flexplate on the crankshaft? Apparently Rockauto don`t sell thos, nor summitracing, nobody :)
Some help is always highly appreciated :P
Summit has them https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-200-2903/make/dodge :twothumbsup:
Quote from: anlauto on July 16, 2021, 04:38:54 AM
Summit has them https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-200-2903/make/dodge :twothumbsup:
Thank you so much. I was looking for those, for a few hours. I would like to ask you something more... I`m looking to order an alternator and I`m not sure if i need a 1V pulley one or a 2V pulley, considering I`m gonna go ahead and install an AC unit too.
Thank you
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19), always helpful!
Yes, if you get a two groove pully now, it will work with one belt. :alan2cents:
If you are adding aftermarket a/c then that as a kit will accommodate for the necessary added pullies.
I do not know of any aftermarket kits that utilize the alternator pully.
However as
@anlauto (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/anlauto_19) noted, single belt can still be used on a dual pully. Or stated differently either 1 or 2 will still align belt properly.
Hey guys,
I finally got the AMD fenders and threw them on the car. Those were the missing parts of the puzzle so once they are installed, aligned, etc, the car will go for paint for the next 3 months or so. Hopefully, I'll gift myself the finish product by Christmas :) :banana:
This is one of the most impressive "saves" I've seen on this site....WAY TO GO !!! :twothumbsup:
The car is looking great, you have come a long way with it. What color are you going with?
Didn't decide yet if I'll go with the original b5 blue or go purple. Anyway, if someone can help with the color codes for modern paints, that would be great.
Because the paint shop will take approximately 3 months to get it done and the body shop needs about 2 more weeks to align the fenders and correct all gaps, i have the time to place a huge order and fill up half a container.
Where would you recommend to order door panels, dashboard, carpet, seat covers, steering stuff, etc? I know that legendary interiors are doing a great job but it can take veeeeery long to deliver an order and I'm aiming to finalize by Christmas
I'm going for a full QA1 at the front end and Hotchkis in the back. What would anyone recommend for the front and rear brakes as a full bolt on power brakes system?
Are the rallye replicas of Foose accessible money wise or not really worth it? I'm planning to go with 18' - also, what's the maximum width i can go with, without cutting into my brand spanking new car? 🤣
Having in mind that all the car is or will be new, any recommendations are welcome
A few comments:
The PPG paint code for Plum Crazy (purple) is 2210
Here's what your Plum Crazy car would look like with a black vinyl top.
My recommendation for carpet is Rock Auto. Don't forget the member discount. You can get many different components from Rock Auto.
Don't hesitate to ask for any additional advice.
What would be a good gas tank with vents? Also, except the tank and sending unit, what else do I need to complete a gas tank installation?
Roseville Moparts puts together a great package. Tank, sending unit, filler tube seal, insulation pad, tank straps, J bolts, and a ground strap....that's about it..
nice job!
sorry I just joined the site myself, I could have answered a bunch of your engine questions. I'm a huge fan of the Magnum style heads (mid-90s through 2003) as cast from the factory they will support 400 crank hp. I have a Dakota that had stock heads on a 318 (5.2L) added a performance intake, cam, headers and a retune of the factory computer controlling the EFI, and it pushed my 4000 lb Dakota into the low 14s, but had the MPH for 13s. I just lacked traction because it's just a leaf spring rear suspension on greasy street tires.
Now it's a Edelbrock headed 360 5.9L and runs really well.
Speaking of paint colors, if you're not set on going full original with it, You should look at the "Intense Blue Pearl Coat" color that was used in the late 90s and early 2000s. Its a really nice deep blue that looks good in all shades of light--that's the color of my Dakota
Hey guys, will those drums fit my standard back end? Do I need 10 or 11 Inch? While there, do you suggest ordering anything else, except the whole under the drum stuff?
Just received another big shipment from Summit and i have to say it's the first time I'm really disappointed on their packaging... 2 of the 4 boxes came completely destroyed... i will not be installing any of those parts until late January and i really hope everything is ok, with no damage. Really thinking if I should keep purchasing stuff from them at this point.
See below the boxes, having in mind the shipping for those was about 500$ with fedex
I get boxes like that all the time.. nobody gives a shit anymore these days.....as long as the parts are okay,....
I think it would take quite a bit to damage a caliper :dunno:
Quote from: anlauto on October 11, 2021, 09:42:46 AM
I get boxes like that all the time.. nobody gives a shit anymore these days.....as long as the parts are okay,....
I think it would take quite a bit to damage a caliper :dunno:
That's most certain. The only damage I could see, is a pinched through tiny cap (don't even know what that is). My only frustration here is that whenever I pay for a premium service, I expect a premium service...
Anyway, I went yesterday to the paint shop, the car is there for 2 weeks and only this coming Saturday, they will start working on it. It was promised to deliver perfection by the 24th December so. fingers crossed there. Apparently I'm missing the Christmas target to get it done :) will get back with photos when they start working on it
Hello guys,
anyone knows if this power steering is what I need for my car? Will it work/fit with the 318?
If anyone can make a list of all the power steering/steering components that I need to order, would be perfect and thank you in advance.
So, today I was asked what's the final decision on the paint... it's going to be the original B5.
Just finished ordering most of the interior, like Headliner, carpet, dashboard, all electrical from yearone, Center console, fuel tank and accessories, and other 34 items on my list :banana:
Technically, I sold my speed boat and spent almost half of it on parts :)
I'm trying to order the seat covers and door panels but I'm not really sure which online shop to use. Summit only sells PUI seat covers which as I understood are not that good.
I found the door panels on eBay for 500$ front and 500$ back plus another 1000$ shipping for both. They are described as OER injection moulded pieces and I cannot find any reviews on those. Also, apparently all the door panels are coming without the hole for the window crank - is this something common with all brands?
Roseville carries the interior panels, and may fill the boxes with other small parts as you order. :dunno: The Challenger ones come without window crank holes because the power window switches are in a different location then the cranks, so one panel will do both styles. All the locations are marked on the backside so it's easy to drill them out :alan2cents:
Away from daily routine, and off-roading in the Dubai desert.
So, finally in epoxy primer. 3 people sanding and sanding... everything will be ready in 2 weeks, with the final coat of primer, filler here and there, sealed and ready for paint :banana:
Lots of hours , time and money to get to this point ! Congrats on the rewards of your perseverance! :bradsthumb:
AMAZING transformation ! :twothumbsup:
I went back to the first post you made on this restoration thread to look at where you started. Wow - you've made amazing progress bringing that car back to life. Nicely done sir!
Fantastic save for sure. It's ironic that people acquire minty, original cars and cut them up to "update" them and this car that was so rough has been lovingly brought back to more original condition.
The amount of work you put in to this car and the outcome so far is simply incredible. When I see vehicles like this I write them off, fortunately for the car and the hobby there are people like you with the dedication to take them on. I am blown away at how many e-bodies have been rescued from the dead by people on this site.
Quote from: ledphoot on November 13, 2021, 11:47:56 AM
The amount of work you put in to this car and the outcome so far is simply incredible. When I see vehicles like this I write them off, fortunately for the car and the hobby there are people like you with the dedication to take them on. I am blown away at how many e-bodies have been rescued from the dead by people on this site.
X2 on this statement. :drinkingbud:
Finally received the AMD windshield, from summit. I'm scared to open and inspect 🤣
Also, covid hit me so i guess I'm stranded into the house for the next couple of weeks...
:popcorn:
Really hoping to see a perfect glass.
Quote from: BAM on November 22, 2021, 02:08:02 AM
Finally received the AMD windshield, from summit. I'm scared to open and inspect 🤣
Also, covid hit me so i guess I'm stranded into the house for the next couple of weeks...
I HAVEN'T CKECKED IN ON YOUR PROFRESS IN A WHILE. ALL I CAN SAY IS WOW! GREAT WORK! BTW, I'D OPEN THAT WINDSHIELD ASAP. I HAD TO HAVE THREE SENT AS THE FIRST TWO ARRIVED CRACKED! :pullinghair: :pullinghair: AND I LIVE STATESIDE.
Is 4 months a normal waiting period for a dashboard from YearOne? Also, i ordered a full wire harness from them about a month ago and everything is on a backorder... not that i need those right now but i would like to have them. I have a quick question for you guys... i need to order the seat covers and i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get the below ones and how they are called.
I ordered wiring harnesses from Year One which took upwards of 8 months or more to deliver. And that was well before Covid or supply chain issues or whatever. A year under current circumstances doesn't shock me.
I'd suggest checking Legendary Interiors for your seat covers. I think they have a lot of stuff on back order too.
Aaaand finally, the full interior is now ordered from Legendary:
- Front door panels
- rear door panels
- front and rear upholstery
- back seat panels
- kick panels
- etc
Also, just ordered the YearOne rallye wheels 17-8 front and 17-9 rear. I hope they will fit and look badass
I hope I'll get those delivered by end of January when hopefully I will get the dashboard from Yearone together with the full wire harness. This Friday, the first layer of paint should be on the car if I'm happy with the overall body work. Will keep you all posted on the work :)
ok, just visited the body shop. The car is still in the sanding process and will get painted in 2 weeks from today. I'm not happy with all that body filler but I guess is normal for a "museum" quality paint job.
I was hoping to get it assembled by Christmas but that is just impossible as I need to wait the interior from Legendary 210 days... probably won't be ready even for my birthday next year in May :)
What is happening with YearOne? I have 3 different orders which are not shipped yet. Shouldn't they inform that they don't have the parts in stock BEFORE asking for outrageous shipping fees?
I ordered all the wiring and other miscellaneous parts - most of them on backorder - will not ship separately unless I pay extra, except the $500 I already paid for shipping
I ordered the dashboard - I can understand it takes time but already waiting since October ($500 in shipping)
I ordered rallye wheels 10 days ago - I asked for tracking number and been told is on backorder for 10 weeks minimum ($668 in shipping)
Is this a common doing on their side?
When ordering from YearOne, if it doesn't say "in stock" that means they DO NOT have it...if they say "usually ships with 1-4 weeks" that means they have NO IDEA when they will ever get it in stock.
Right now in North America, due to Covid-19, there is a shortage of wood, steel, plastic, foam, aluminum, rubber, etc... etc... and mainly LABOUR ....just about everything is on back order....
I've order a dash pad in July, wiring in August, which I gave up on, interior panels which I've been told there is no ETA....
You're having issues doing your one car....I have eight customers on the go right now :pullinghair: getting parts is like pulling teeth...and being in Canada I feel your pain on International shipping, certainly not as bad as you, but the only ones getting rich during this pandemic is UPS and FedEx :alan2cents:
Quote from: anlauto on December 07, 2021, 06:38:19 AM
When ordering from YearOne, if it doesn't say "in stock" that means they DO NOT have it...if they say "usually ships with 1-4 weeks" that means they have NO IDEA when they will ever get it in stock.
Right now in North America, due to Covid-19, there is a shortage of wood, steel, plastic, foam, aluminum, rubber, etc... etc... and mainly LABOUR ....just about everything is on back order....
I've order a dash pad in July, wiring in August, which I gave up on, interior panels which I've been told there is no ETA....
You're having issues doing your one car....I have eight customers on the go right now :pullinghair: getting parts is like pulling teeth...and being in Canada I feel your pain on International shipping, certainly not as bad as you, but the only ones getting rich during this pandemic is UPS and FedEx :alan2cents:
Yeah, we share the pain. Legendary interiors said they will deliver my upholstery and door panels plus other stuff next year in June-July. Well, I guess I can only wait...nothing else to do :)
So, the car is finally in primer and ready for the last sanding before paint. Apparently, it will be delayed for 1 more week and ready painted just before the new year.
Will take it straight to the mechanic and start installing the suspension and steering.
I'll say it again................The transformation in such a short period of time is amazing :worship:
So, I finally have the complete front end, complete rear suspension and complete front and back brakes. Paint job will be ready next week so early January we start assembling the K member, suspension, etc. Would you say is better to assemble the front on a bench and lift everything up from underneath the car, or install the K and everything else one by one?
Quote from: BAM on December 21, 2021, 03:44:37 AM
So, I finally have the complete front end, complete rear suspension and complete front and back brakes. Paint job will be ready next week so early January we start assembling the K member, suspension, etc. Would you say is better to assemble the front on a bench and lift everything up from underneath the car, or install the K and everything else one by one?
I have never installed the engine/suspension assembly from underneath but that's the method I plan on using. You just have to rig up a lifting bar to the front end.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/engine-installation-methods/21292/msg263238#msg263238
I installed my k member and engine from the bottom, it is so much easier. I made a frame to mount the assy on wheels so I could line it up. Then used my engine puller to raise the body.
Another vote here for putting the assembled K-member in from underneath. I had the rear axle in when I did mine. Instead of putting jack stands under the axle, I moved them forward a bit so the front end became easier to lift. I used an engine lift and a lifting strap to pick up the front end, then rolled the engine and K-member under the car (it was on "piano dollies".... basically padded wood rectangles with caster wheels). After lowering the front end and supporting it with jack stands, I used the engine lift, a floor jack and some blocks of wood to raise the K-member up and hold it in place so that the k-member bolts could be installed.
Sneak peak! One more coat of clear and some small bits and pieces left to be painted. I'll post again when the car is assembled and under the sun... AMAZING!
Beautiful color, you made a great choice.
Wow....go back to page one and look at the pictures....this is the most impressive build ever posted on this website :alan2cents:
Some more
Wow very very nice beautiful it's come a long way ,your hard work has paid off cheers :australia:
And the engine started for the 1st time in over 30 years, after a full rebuild. It sounds healthy and strong.
https://youtube.com/shorts/_Tcho5mxLDU?feature=share
Quote from: BAM on January 10, 2022, 09:29:23 AM
And the engine started for the 1st time in over 30 years, after a full rebuild. It sounds healthy and strong.
https://youtube.com/shorts/_Tcho5mxLDU?feature=share
That's very cool, but I don't think I would want to run the transmission dry like that for very long...wouldn't take much to heat-up that front seal :alan2cents:
Guys,
anyone able to help me locate this green guides? Or maybe a complete replacement kit for all those plastic things? Summit is out of stock, YearOne ships them in 1-4 weeks which is normally 1-4 decades and I really need to get the windows on and get the car out of the paint shop.
I found them on eBay pretty quick :dunno:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/133609740538?fits=Model%3ACuda&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f1bc2d8fa:g:m24AAOSw0jJf3EyT&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSHYXPhGXR5uguexJBeHwfgRM93PwKURf2oAP1OwKxf6x6bPQ2sCMTjypitRHBzGCmwpViD4ABLHL6TZLOI8aj35xJhq6Mqgzgy18by4qq1%252FpbaxRhBd%252FQv1OrbRYa%252BKXTI%252BZYjtfzKyVnoMApWzqrS83DNDZsqO0xHC6J6pukVK6X5RAz9yOPwPrmia6jvc%252FxZSpAIF1NyvGNOc3KxM%252Fhggyd1r8hyfrMnRb%252Fef6Pza5z9N0ec%252BOdCglKZNVyCI1butCuPVLVzidLvvkKXmadjW5S7QgZuxs41%252FXgPbfrhl2Ac2CQZzhxnXKYr4mp7jeUMx%252FFR7zm3gV2qPkqLt%252FycNtN9ODV31EkvO48P5Y5BKAE44tThnIBRbdkrFhIbOYTkq26njqNF7Oeslja1qW%252BUQ%252BiDs5XLr5YrYgkk%252Frg7rrar0vxS4gFBzoQVmOUoip4sc9eDxwrKGDV3DW2QOjeavEoOwqPxocINnYq3%252F6ryk8NYwmc%252F6oaKF18vtT6c5cpAmamudNWk9%252BgakAqzkYigBkbbH9fGrA%252B6TevzCK%252FtOTEgLPyW5X20XFyhthZWr%252FoHJVbR1912jNfm9C9iJ%252BG8IeNmUNB5tLntqRvDoxECvTLMV12eQdMiMdXBb6ju7Xcs1NXltV3lO9CSg2B3sfhDZJjHqYcTwA4CUkkx3CaAsH%252F9HqlO5DOUcWR2mMKCECVmaDT%252FSrWsNEzhJhkXSWeDxThfDAWp61H60BXPxV7XKSTdViU80dEtl90JOXMWJF%252FAdFYbbOQSh6xqcC0vzvqEPyv9Eu96Qz7imoKRtXAjUOYLWm%252BpPFl4RNgCizGLxwHtQ%252Bn7kPe%252FpfINf%252Bh%252Fjdv4w%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrtKtpslf
Classic Industries shows them "in stock" https://www.classicindustries.com/product/mn1767.html :twothumbsup:
And...
:cooldance: :cooldance: :veryexcited: :veryexcited: ....and now the fun begins :clapping: :worship:
:twothumbsup: So how long before it hits the streets?
Well, engine and transmission are ready. Rear end is not tested but what can go wrong? :)
I don't have a driveshaft and nobody is able to make one here in the wonderful island of Cyprus.
I don't have wheels - YearOne really takes their time on those
I don't have upholstery - Legendary reaaaallllyyyy take their time
I don't have dashboard, electrical, door panels, technically everything because everyone takes their time and everything is on backorder
Headliner is lost in a container somewhere in Israel...
Maybe next Christmas if legendary will send everything by end of July and IF i will ever receive what i ordered from YearOne.
But all that gives me some time to finish expanding my house, build a giant swimming pool and also handle my business so i can pay for all those hahaha
one of the happiest days of my life today is :)
Beautiful job on a challenging core. Are you going with the SE rear window and roof or are you leaving it all blue (my vote!).
looks incredible. I'm jealous that mine is not there yet!
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 13, 2022, 07:01:08 AM
Beautiful job on a challenging core. Are you going with the SE rear window and roof or are you leaving it all blue (my vote!).
I agree, it would be a shame to cover up all that beautiful new paint. Do you have the SE belt moulding and will you be installing it?
I didn't order yet the leather roof cover as i'm still not 100% which way i'm going. I think it would be a shame to not go with the SE pack but on the other hand, it will probably look better with just paint.
I guess i still have a few more months to decide
I agree the SE is a really nice package and unique. It's just that all the parts included in the package are hard to source and will really add stress, time and $$$ to getting it all finished. Lots of special moldings, clips, wiring, window parts, interior parts etc.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 13, 2022, 08:23:11 AM
I agree the SE is a really nice package and unique. It's just that all the parts included in the package are hard to source and will really add stress, time and $$$ to getting it all finished. Lots of special moldings, clips, wiring, window parts, interior parts etc.
Yeah, well i have 95% of the parts and whatever I'm missing, is easy to find. I'll probably get near finish with it and decide after, if i go with the SE window or not. Everything else is SE anyway
:wrenching:
QA1 front end started to be installed. Apparently the KIT does not include the lower ball joints which is a bummer...I cannot go ahead with finishing the front end without those
Forgot to order the J Bolts for the gas tank straps so that cannot go in either...
For some reason, I only ordered 1 rear drum but those cannot go in as I don't have the rear differential back from powder coating anyway :)
No electrical or any interior so nothing to do there either. I rented out the entire shop so that all those people work only on my car. Well, I guess they are taking some holidays for now :bricks:
Hey guys,
I need your help with the brake lines and small stuff. So, the car has a 318, 2bbl, automatic transmission.
I ordered:
fuel sending unit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=872367&cc=1078422&pt=4436&jsn=11
fuel pump to carburettor lines: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-rpc6701s
Transmission cooler lines: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-etc7001
My questions:
1. Which fuel lines do I need, to go from the gas tank, to front
2. Do I actually need transmission cooling? If so, which is the right radiator and accessories for it?
3. Do I need any other small bits and pieces to have this completed and out of the way?
Also, as we will build a driveshaft from nothing, could you please indicate which are the correct connectors for that? I mean the ends of the driveshaft which I don't know how they are called in English :)
Now that there is work being done under the car, any suggestions? Any heads up? Anything that I should be addressing now? Any brackets, hangers, accessories that I should start ordering?
Your help is always appreciated.
:yes:
I don't want to be the barrier of bad news, but if you're using a "stock" style steering box, then your lower ball joints are on the wrong side...Chrysler's are a "rear steer" car with the linkage behind the center point as apposed to "front steer"....If you're modifying it to use a rack & pinion with front steer, then never mind... :D ....and make sure the bleeder screw for the caliper is positioned on the top :alan2cents:
....oh.....looking good by the way... :twothumbsup:
I just read this entire thread and I have to tell you how much you got accomplished in so little time is amazing! Also great motivation on my project to see yours come together so beautifully! I could only imagine the costs for you on this one, with shipping being so outrageous to Cypress and I imagine labor costs are high there as well since it's specialized type of work in a small country. Look forward to more updates!
Anyone can see something wrong here?
Sway bar links seem low. Factory goes up from lower control arm. Not below it.
Yea, that set-up looks weird...The mount for the strut bar looks like a weak point as well...but I've never worked with those aftermarket parts :dunno:before.
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 23, 2022, 09:39:33 PM
Sway bar links seem low. Factory goes up from lower control arm. Not below it.
The car is still on the elevator. I guess that when the engine will be in and down on it's wheels, things will look different. For now, nothing is tighten in there...just a mock up to understand what goes where. Also, there is a lot of play on the brake pads and I don't know if there should be any additional clip or something to keep them more stable :notsure:
For now, I'm still looking for the rear end because the one that came with the car is obviously not original.... is some GM one, probably from some old pickup. Unfortunately, I spent a lot of money on restoring it, before I noticed the GM letters on it :pullinghair:
Sorry to hear about the GM rear axle.
I was slightly incorrect when stating it goes upwards.
The mounting is upwards and sway bar is parallel to bottom of lower arm. Obviously you have aftermarket setup. However the current mounting of sway bar would have it dragging on the ground at ride height. I believe your bar should be raised to above the lower arms.
Here is a pic of how factory setup looks.
Guy guys,
I purchased the rear end but is incomplete (all or most internals are missing). Because I have absolutely no clue about it, is anyone able to guide me to what I need to order so I can complete and install this? I created a new thread here: https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/rear-axle-help-on-gears-and-stuff/24242/
I'm sorry if I sound completely crazy but I have no idea on what I'm talking about when it comes to this part...zero...nada...nimic...
Quote from: anlauto on January 26, 2022, 11:38:49 AM
@72hemi (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/72hemi_70) scroll up and have a look at the front suspension pictures here....Is this the same stuff you put in your car ? If so, what's going on with the sway bar ?
The control arms and strut rods are the same that I used, but I used the original K member and a Firm Feel sway bar, as QA1 said their sway bar only worked with their K member. That said the main thing I see as a problem in the pictures is the end links seem to be way too long and the lower control arm is extended beyond the range of motion it will see under weight resulting in a weird angle for the end link to go through.
Here are some pictures of my setup. Should be noted that I haven't finished tightening up the sway bar as I am finishing the install of the passenger side parts, but you can see how much shorter my end link is and how my lower control arm is sitting higher (within the range of motion for driving).
I need some help with what else is missing, to build a driveshaft. Unfortunately, Dr. Diff cannot help in this direction or at least not any time soon. So this is what I have, except the rear end and axles:
* 7290 U-Bolt Pinion Yoke Package Options: Pinion Spline: 29 Spline 8 3/4" and all 9 1/4"
* 8 3/4" bearing rebuild kit Options: Casting Number (last 3 digits): 741 (+$25.00) , Carrier/Suregrip Type: All others (2.0" bearing journal) , Pinion Bearing Spacer: N/A , Bearing Manufacturer: Koyo USA/Japan , Add Ring-Gear Bolts: No
* 8 3/4" Clutch Type Sure-Grip ("Powr-lok") Options: I am using: Green non-adjustable wheel bearings , Add set, ring gear bolts: Yes (+$15.00) , Add pair carrier bearings and races: Yes (+$38.00) , Add bottle, Ford friction modifier additive: Yes (+$8.00)
* 8 3/4" Inner Axle Seal
* 8 3/4" Ring and Pinion Options: Case and Pinion Spline: 741 (29 spline) , Ratio: 3.55 , Manufacturer: Motive/Richmond
* Green Bearings (PAIR)
now, I'm not sure if there is anything else missing for the rear but I want to get started on building a driveshaft and I have no idea what do I need for that. Is it easier to just order a ready made one from somewhere? If so, from where?
If this is done, I promise that as soon as the car moves under it's own power, a burnout will be made, sitting on a kitchen stool (no interior yet) :thankyou:
Summit Racing sells driveshaft kits, you just have to find one with 7290 U-Joints, maybe call them ?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-730404
Google is your friend....Mancini Racing has them... https://www.manciniracing.com/ma727cudrshk1.html
What transmission are you using ?
I agree, I would buy the kit and have it welded locally :bigthumb:
Agreed on the above 2 comments for waiting. Especially since you also have aftermarket K mounting.
Purchase kit to have if you can source a company local that can weld and balance it proper.
If no shop, then you provide dimension length from transmission to rear. Sounds like you remain waiting on additional parts, so waiting would not create further delays for overall project.
It feels like my front brakes won't be that safe... i guess there is something missing that should keep the brake pads in place...
https://youtu.be/aO9mdLrQOi0
Quote from: BAM on January 29, 2022, 10:33:55 AM
It feels like my front brakes won't be that safe... i guess there is something missing that should keep the brake pads in place...
https://youtu.be/aO9mdLrQOi0
Those little tabs on the top of the pad ( on the sides) need to be bent down to keep the pad from rattling. I use a small chisel in between the bottom radius of the pad and the rotor to drive it up as much as possible first.
Once you bleed the system, the piston will put pressure on the pads and they won't rattle around, right now the piston is fully retracted... :alan2cents:
Engine is in! We encounter some issues, aligning the power steering pump with the pulley...Is there a spacer for the other pulley or the brackets of the pump are installed wrong? :notsure:
Also, it appears I'm missing some adaptor for the air cleaner...any idea what do I need there to have it fitted?
:thinking: I believe power steering pulley is for a big block, Did I see a 3 spoke vs. a solid for small block?
Is the power steering pump pully on backwards ? Looks like it has an offset :rubeyes: You have a 2bbl carb and a 4bbl air cleaner...you would need a 2bbl air cleaner :dunno:
Looks like the p/s pully is on backwards.
The thick post on rear side should be in the front.
Unfortunately that post (now in the back) has the groove that the pully puller uses to extract it off of shaft.
You (or someone will have to get creative fabricating a custom puller.
Normally they cannot be pulled using the outer diameter. The pully will just bend.
Only pic I have so disregard everything else showing.
The p/s pully is correct and you can see the center boss is facing outward.
As stated the air filter base is for a larger 4v.
I suggest having a local shop turn an adapter spacer up out of aluminum.
Not a smallblock guru but is that even the correct pump? That looks like a later pump to me.
It looks like the right pump, but the pulley is on backwards. Since it has a nut on the end it should be easy enough to flip around - it's not press fit since it has a keyway.
Thank you guys for all your help. I will ask the mechanic to flip the pulley and see if it works. I have to order the radiator, fans, hoses and thermostat. Because the radiator support was changed completely, with the bigger one from AMD, I'm guessing a 26" would be suitable for it and the hot weather in Cyprus.
Can someone suggest a good radiator for this setup and also advise if we should better use electric fans? If electric fans are better, is there a complete setup for my application? What would you recommend?
I know I'm asking a lot of questions but considering I'm building the car from nothing, and nothing was original on it, I didn't have any reference to begin with.
is so annoying that Yearone is taking 5 months already to deliver my electrical, wheels and dashboard because we are very near to reaching a stand still point where we don't have any parts to install...
So please guys, if anyone ca take some of their time and help with a list of correct stuff that is still need under the hood...would really appreciate that.
Hey guys,
long time since my last update... unfortunately I don't have time to go to the garage that often. Lately, we have finally got and installed a full cooling setup with electric fans, got delivery of a ton of parts such as the year one 17' wheels, plenty of miscellaneous parts and pieces for the brakes, gaskets, seals, roof vinyl, trim pieces, etc etc etc
As always, I have a quick question, this time related to the parking brake. I have the impression that I have the wrong setup here so if someone could please advise on this and maybe recommend the correct parts, would be appreciated.
The cables for the parking brake, somehow should be one on each side but I only have a bracket for that on the driver side. this makes me believe that there should maybe be only one cable? :notsure:
You're trying to install a 1971-74 parking brake cable system on a 1970 car.
Caught by one of those, one year only 1970 deals, the system change from both cables on the driver's side, to one cable on each side for the 1971 model year.
There is no intermediate cable in 1970, all three cables including the one on the pedal are wrong....it would be easier to make a bracket for the passenger side frame rail and use the set-up you have...
Here it is in stainless steel https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/brake-cable-set-3-piece-no-intermediate-challenger-70-74-stainle/
Quote from: anlauto on March 16, 2022, 05:51:02 AM
There is no intermediate cable in 1970, all three cables including the one on the pedal are wrong....it would be easier to make a bracket for the passenger side frame rail and use the set-up you have...
Here it is in stainless steel https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/brake-cable-set-3-piece-no-intermediate-challenger-70-74-stainle/
Thank you. New cables ordered! together with headlight bezels, and other miscellaneous things :yes:
So, long time to write some updates. Work takes most of my time so i didn't even see my car for a while :)
So, the 17' Rallye wheels from yearone are here, i had to order new tires as it was a weird and uncommon size - Now is all received and ready to be installed. New brake cables are in and already installed. Unfortunately, the driveshaft received from Mancinni is a bit incorrect as the slip yoke (if that's the correct term) does not fit with the gearbox. Also, they are not responding my emails so i'm not really sure what to order in this case.
From Year one i'm still waiting for most of the electrics as i only received the dashboard harness, from Legendary, i'm still waiting for all the interior.
We received most trim pieces but nothing is installed as i want to put the vinyl roof on
it's been a while but today, my chally finally stands on all 4 wheels. Big day form multiple POV for me but seeing the car on wheels, almost got me jumping :)
Not posting much lately as the mechanical part is not that exciting
Wow...
You have transformed the original mess into an incredibly beautiful piece of art.
:perfect10:
Love those 17" wheel and tires. :perfect10: Car is looking great! :clapping: I fully agree with YellowThumper. You have done a remarkable job on this car! :twothumbsup:
Finally, the headliner from SE Headliners is here! I just opened the box and it looks like i have the wrong headliner...
Can someone advise if this is the correct one for 1970 SE Challenger? It looks like the hole in the middle is for standard models or 1971 or later?
Quote from: BAM on April 27, 2022, 08:47:21 AM
Finally, the headliner from SE Headliners is here! I just opened the box and it looks like i have the wrong headliner...
Can someone advise if this is the correct one for 1970 SE Challenger? It looks like the hole in the middle is for standard models or 1971 or later?
I'm curious as well. I am also restoring a 1970 Challenger rt/se, 383. I know the SE models had some different features than the other models.
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Quote from: BAM on April 27, 2022, 08:47:21 AM
Finally, the headliner from SE Headliners is here! I just opened the box and it looks like i have the wrong headliner...
Can someone advise if this is the correct one for 1970 SE Challenger? It looks like the hole in the middle is for standard models or 1971 or later?
Here's what I see online .. maybe the hole is for the wiring of that overhead light?
https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1970-DODGE-CHALLENGER-RT-SE-236051
Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
The overhead console goes over it.
I placed the overhead console on top of it and it looks fine. I just panicked a little bit as i'm waiting for this headliner since October last year and would be a shame to be the wrong one :bricks: Not to mention that together with the shipping, customs, etc, it cost me over 3000 USD...
on another hand, i'm still waiting for my 6 months old orders from yearone.com ... I still don't have a dashboard, almost no wiring, no essential parts to at lease remove the car from the mechanic...
Still waiting on Legendary to deliver something....anything from the interior... I guess that will be later this year
Still waiting on the sure fit A/C system that i ordered from Summit...they changed the shipping date today...that's programmed for 1st July...
Still 1 1/2 bedrooms in my house are full of parts that i cannot have installed because some missing pieces. So...we wait and wait :D
The car looks fantastic. The frustration of waiting for parts will be worth it in the end.
Quote from: EV2RTSE on April 27, 2022, 09:10:27 AM
The overhead console goes over it.
Yea I need to find one of those myself lol.
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So, i'm after a set of Interior roof rail trim for the challenger. :)
Finally, yearone sent part of my orders placed last year so we will start having some more progress soon.
A much awaited surprise from Yearone... My dashboard is here (while they say they will send it over in 2 weeks :unbelievable:)
I didn't have a look at it yet, as i'm waiting for the wiring harnesses to clear customs and have everything i need. Overall, good day here :P
Finally, we have a complete set of wire harnesses, dashboard (i still didn't look at it), new headlight bezels, new headlights + retaining rings + buckets, door handles, seat belts, window crank handles, all exterior trim, package tray, Rechromed bumpers, all the exterior lights, the overhead console and rear window trim will go for upholstery next week.
Brakes complete, new Driveshaft welded, balanced and installed, Magnaflow exhaust is in, other small bits and pieces still on order. We are pushing hard to finish the car before 1st of December where is the delivery of the new house too :)
Rear end is done! Front end still needs the headlights and probably a new grille if i can find one in stock for a decent price.
Your car is looking outstanding! Great job considering the extra challenges you've been faced with.
I was trying to find some instructions on how to install the headlight but it seems impossible to find. Can someone help me with some guidance on how to install those?
The first step is sorting out the headlight buckets, all four are different and should be marked....LH HI, LH HI/LO, RH HI, RH HI/LO....
NO, the HI beam headlights go on the insides and the HI/LO lights go on the outside with RH being the passenger side
As with many reproduction parts, they are not always 100% perfect....I found with the last set of these I installed, I had to drill the small little hole where the spring attaches. Pretty much right where it needs to go. As you are, just hold the bucket in place and mark where the spring is.
So finally, after 10 months waiting, i received the door panels, seat covers, seat backs from legendary. At the first glance, the door panels are not the best possible quality but no big issues either.
Will post some photos when everything gets installed
Looking forward to see this car finished, it's been an incredible journey :twothumbsup:
Amazing BAM. You've really done a lot of good work with this car. Looking great. Hard to believe where you started on this project. :clapping:
Looking at the underside and the front sway bar. You may need to cut down the sway bar links to about half their length. I have the QA1 tubular K-member and I had to. Once the car is on it's wheels, check that the bar is more or less horizontal. With mine it was pointed down a fair bit.
Car looks great! :clapping: Who supplied your rear bumper? It looks good, usually the repops are bent and do not fit nice along the bottom of the tail lights.
Quote from: anlauto on September 26, 2022, 04:43:10 AM
Looking forward to see this car finished, it's been an incredible journey :twothumbsup:
X2 with what he said. This restoration is for the record books.
:cheers:
Proof that anything can be restored. Very nice outcome.
Hi Bam,
Not sure if I just missed it, what is the actual color of blue? Do you have a paint code? Thanks, :cheers:
To answer all questions:
bumpers are original and rechromed
the color is the original b5
we are facing some difficulties installing the gearbox linkage and starting to think that my mechanic is not the best or even good enough to complete this project...
meanwhile, i bought another more modern, european muscle car
Hello guys,
i'm in need of both "rear run and retainer" pieces, in order to finish installing the windows. Any idea if anyone is reproducing those or at least where i could get a pair of those?
You can run without them no problem....they were actually eliminated some time early in the 1971 production run and never used again..
...and they are not reproduced :alan2cents:
Hello guys,
can someone advise on what is this part called? Is kind of the last missing piece to finalise this car :)
I'm talking about the small plate where the linkage mounts on
Automatic transmission shifter levers, there should be two stacked, the lower for gear selection, and one for the kick down linkage
Quote from: anlauto on February 17, 2023, 05:02:57 AM
Automatic transmission shifter levers, there should be two stacked, the lower for gear selection, and one for the kick down linkage
Thanks for that. I do have the linkage. I'm only missing the bottom plate where those linkages are connecting.
There's no "plate" like in your picture, it's two sperate levers UNLESS you have a transmission that is a lot newer then the car. Do you know what transmission you have or what it came out of ?
Do you guys know if the seat hinge covers are being reproduced? i spent some time trying to locate that but...no success.
Nobody reproducing the seat hinge covers that I'm aware of...TONY'S PARTS has the buttons, that's it :dunno: